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Member postings for DMB

Here is a list of all the postings DMB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

<< First < Prev 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 Next > Last >>
Thread: Ball Nose Mill Cutter, did I break it?
22/04/2010 23:44:43
Hi Aidan,
Try using a carbide cutter, which will not be blunted by chilled iron like HSS. Or use a small rotary grindstone as supplied with the hand held rotary tools.
If you can, get a proper Clarksons milling chuck and screwed shank cutters to fit. Trust me, their the "bees knees."!
John
Thread: Recommend oil can for oiler ports (on lathe)
22/04/2010 23:39:44
I found that those pump oilcans usually painted red, leaked and made ahell of a mess, wasting expensive oils. Bought an expensive "Reilang" oilcan - no waste at all!
Can anyone recommend an improvement upon those awful little spring loaded ball oilers, please? 
Thread: X2 type mini mill PCB speed control
19/04/2010 10:10:43
Hi John,
Long term answer and cheapest in the end is to have permanent elec. supply and buy lo-wattage heater or make el-cheapo like I did and trust me it works perfectly, well, in my shed it does. I believe there is such a thing as a Piano heater, 15w. Or find/make 3-ply wood box to protect bulbs and fit 4 batten-holders in bottom, connected in series so the 4x60W bulbs just glow. I found this works perfectly under thick plastic cover over mill and very cheap to run. Just be very careful to ensure connector screws tight and insulated. SWITCH OFF b4 you use mill! 
Thread: Tap Magic
19/04/2010 09:47:59
Sometime ago one of the trade stands at an exhibition was selling tapping jollop in small tubs as used by Trefolex but with no labels. It was the colour of LNER green paint and smelt different ot Tref. Stand holder assured me that labels had fallen off and it was definitely Tref. and it was new formula.  It was useless so binned it. Serves me right I suppose and I genuinely cannot remember who it was. Watch out if you are the guilty one reading this you toerag, because if I see that muck on sale again I`ll buy some and give it to Trading Standards and tell Tref.`s makers.
19/04/2010 09:38:38
Right hand ads r obscuring the posts again.
I DO swear by Trefolex but I often use cleanoils from the kitchen especially rape seed.
Used once for say, chips, got a few bits in it so filter + store in small bottle - very good !
I usually use Trefolex for tapping/Dieing and a well - washed out washing up liquid squeezy bottle tospray drills. Have also used surface cleaning trigger bottles.
Both types deliver far too much and make awful mess so started using 2" high squeezy bottle with fine spout, ex - hair colour (wifes!). Perfect!!
Have not tried other jollops listed above so cannot comment on their efficacy.
Have tried excess fish oil from small sardine tins and the like but tend to be smelly, goey generally unsatisfactory but do work.
Thread: Speedy 5 inch valve gear revisions.
31/03/2010 21:16:20
Hi Robert,
I have got around 80 years of Model Engineer and Don Youngs mag LLAS, most copies and I dont recall DY having tackled LBSC`s Speedy VG. Are you getting confused with LBSC`s Maid of Kent? Both DY and K N Harris re-designed that VG in ME. Unfortunately I cannot remember when but feel both were 1970`s/80`s.
If I am wrong and Speedy`s VG did get amended, please let me know.
Thanks, John.
 
Thread: Keeping it Clean
30/03/2010 09:14:27
Terry,
My mill heater is home-made 3-ply box with 4 brass batten-holders in `bottom` and 4 x 60W old-style bulbs. Batten- holders connected in series so bulbs only glow but give off surprising amount of warmth yet use very little electric. This contraption switched on 24/7/52 except in hot weather, Jun-Aug especially if dry weather. The bech mounted Fobco Star drill has a builders bag hood and another folded in half on table, no heat.
Tools and materials on bench covered with large thin sheet of plastic ex-wrapper for roll of fibreglass roof insulation.Just draw it back to one end when I want to butcher some metal.
My method is cheap to run and VERY effective! By the way, it is a bit warmer down here in sunny Brighton!
John
30/03/2010 09:03:27
Terry,
My wooden shed workshop contains mill in North East corner and Myford in North West corner and door in middle of North wall. Plastic Myford cover on lathe and very thick and very large plastic bag hood over mill + umpteen builders merchants sand and gravel bags seal front end + each side of table. Some years ago, I would go into workshop on a sunny morning and find  mill table covered in water and rest of it dripping but Myford was dry! I uessed that hot sun on South end of shed caused sudden hike in air temp. causing mill to sweat.Shed now got South wall and roof covered in large bubble wrap between layers of felt. Whole shed covered in felt. Inside of roo f has 2" polystyrene sheet. Inside walls have 3-ply  and voids stuffed with fibreglass roof insulation. Mill has small heater which cured condensation and Myford no heater.
Thread: For Sale section - can't choose groups
29/03/2010 16:28:53
Hi John,
I have got same problem.
John
Thread: MEW 162 - Phoenix Battery Drills
18/03/2010 09:49:44
I think that David really ought to put in a warning such as `KWILL` suggests, in front of every copy of MEW if not ME as well, just to cover himself and proprietors. Maybe something like what appears in the front of many re-printed American books on mechanical / electrical subjects.
Well done David, for vastly improving 2 already good mags. - keep it up!!!
John.
Thread: CE mark for boilers
15/03/2010 10:40:17
I had a Sweet Pea boiler made commercially some years ago and still not steamed it or got it steam tested as I still havn`t finished the rest of it. Needless to say,  there is no CE mark on it.
How do I stand  with current test requirements? Can anyone please advise?
 
John 
Thread: Single Chamfer Full Nuts
08/03/2010 18:28:04
I believe that a number of nut nbolt makers are in Worcester area - try yellow pages @ Library.
John
08/03/2010 18:26:41
Try yellow pages @ library, for Worcester area. I believe a number of nut n bolt makers in that area.
John.
Thread: Frame material for Tich
01/03/2010 09:27:45
Hi David,
Wot do u mean, "blued steel?"
My guess is high-carbon known as `gaugeplate.`
As there are only 2 axles and short length, I would think gauge plate would work but very expensive material for such use. I certainly wouldn`t consider it for say, "Nigel Gresley" or any other long-framed multi-driver loco, due to stiffness of steel. It would not flex and on tight curves with very small cleances on a well made new loco., I would think derailments could be a possibility.
Thats what I think but perhaps someone with more experience can throw in their "2pennorth."
Regards,
John
PS what a glorious sunny morning down here in Brighton.
Thread: Word to the Wise
25/02/2010 08:25:12
Hi Neil,
May I suggest that any tools to cut Brass, you clour witha dab of yellow paint?
I use those small pen type touch-in paints sold for cars and colour-code an awful lot of things, e.g., caphead screws and the fitting Allen key as I always seem to pick up the wrong size. I also dont believe in complete sets of spanners on walls like some "show - workshops" seen in the mags. I find it much more convenient to have `dedicated` spanners in a box/rack special for the mill or for the lathe. Even these I colour one end so if they end up on the bench, I know instantly where they belong when I have a clear-up.
John.
Thread: Cover for a milling machine table
23/02/2010 10:39:58
Hi Ian,
The mist coolant sounds like Duplex articles (I think). If so, it would be yonks ago - 1950`s?
John. 
Thread: Oil for Lathe GearBox
19/02/2010 18:00:47
If I want anEP oil, I go to local carspares shop + buy `EP90` in a convenient sized plastic bottle. In fact, I make up a concoction of EP90, STP or Wynn`s (ultra sticky jollop) and a quantity of Molybdenum oil (black as yer hat! as its full of tiny balls of graphite). This I use as a slideway lube on the Myford. The sticky jollop makes it stay put, graphite gets into the smallest of spaces gives very good lubrication.
I do use  the recommended oil as supplied by Myfords for bearings but dont get through half as much since I ditched those awful leaky red oil pumpcans sold everywhere. I now use a quality `Reilang` oilcan - no waste!
John
Thread: How to prepare Hot Rolled Steel for marking/machining
19/02/2010 09:08:10
Sorry, I typed 2nd version as my `puter seemed to have lost 1st version. 
19/02/2010 09:07:00
In the past I have used a coarse grade emery disc in a pistol grip elec. drill. Cleans  up steel nice `n` bright but you need to be careful about very deep scratches which could be difficult to remove/hide with filler. Also, use ear - defenders or suffer tinitus later!
A cheaper source of Hydrochloric Acid which I used is a bottle of it from builders merchants who sell it to antique restorers for removing filth from brass antiques.
Only use outdoors as boy! does it fume!! Keep upwind of fumes and use it as drain - cleaner (outside), to dispose. Bet water authority wouldnt approve!
 
19/02/2010 08:56:58
In the past, I have used a coarse grade emery disc in pistol grip elec. drill - brings steel up nice `n` bright. Dont forget the ear - defenders or youll `pay` for it with life-long tinitus, like me but in my case, I`ve done a number of things to cause it.
Probably a cheaper source of Hydrochloric Acid  is sold as acid in builders merchants. Used by antique restorers for cleaning filthy brass antiques. I tried it neat from the bottle outdoors and boy! did it fume!! Did the job, though. Take care - VERY nasty stuff.
<< First < Prev 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 Next > Last >>
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