Member postings for old Al

I brought myself an oxy propane torch from The Welders wearhouse. transformed the quality of bigger silver soldered joints.Propane is a bit more forgiving if you get the torch too close to the workpiece.

I get my gas bottles from Adams gas in a reasonable sized bottle.

Very happy with my setup now. Expensive to get going, but worth it.

The price sound good at the start. By the time you get to the bottom line and its too late to back out of the deal, you are not saving much.

Everything out of india is 'best quality'. I would hate to see something come out of India that was not graded that way.

Generally pleased with what i have had from tap and die company, but feel their are better alternatives available.

You do get a free pen, so it must be good!

Just remember,

If you throw something in the sea, it could end up anywhere in the world that has sea as its neigbour. can you imagine if we threw all our plastic rubbish in the sea and China, India, wherever else taxing their population so that they can be seen as 'green'.

And as for the suger tax, im drinking beer now, i must be up 20p by now

I think Joe is making his life hard for himself. If it were manufactured in imperial measurements, it makes sense to measure in imperial measurements. Then at least the start measurement becomes obvious with simple measuring tools.

Somewhere along the line, i gained a brand new Indian made 4 jaw chuck. I was of the opinion that whatever the operator wanted, the 4 jaw would deliver. (I have always worked in engineering workshops with good old fashioned equipment.)

So, Im happy, i have something new and in it box, woopee.

Go to start work with said 4 jaw and find it holds on the back of the jaw. I have a 'new' doorstop.

Second hand good makes are a much better investment, especially as my 4 jaw is constantly fixed to my lathe

Hot tang always works for me

Sorry, just skimmed this thread. But

You cant trust a head to drop just by dialling a cut size. I had a mill/drill by Warco and earnt a lot of money off it. Warco was excellent in their service back then and overall i was very pleased allround.

But drop the head by an indicated 20 thou and maybe get a 15 thou cut. So you are still up on size so you put the 5 thou on and the machine drops the 5 thou plus the 5 it didnt do last time. Its a common senario and not usually a major problem. But, if you had a knee, oooooooh the extra confidence you gain.

If you can afford it get one with a knee.

Look round for a lightly used second hand one of better quality.

Alan

My initial worry in the photo is the distance between wheel and toolrest in the background. Now that is scary.

Never, ever use a grinding machine (or any workshop machine) without safety glasses. They are cheap and nowadays usually comfortable .

And as for having a machine thats not bolted down, thats another story. You will be telling me next, you hold the piece being ground in gloves. Ahhhhh

As an apprentice a long time ago we were full time at college and were encountering a micrometer for the first time.The material we were supplied with was over size and the drawings were not changed. One of my group (not me) got hold of a micrometer and with all of his force screed the micrometer to get the right dimension reading. 1 broken micrometer. We all have to start somewhere and its not so easy to find help to get started these days.

I have seen Lubriplate available in this country in a motor factors internet shop, but it was really expensive. And i have had three lots of 'the last squeeze' and i cant squash the tube anymore. It seems an odd grease to use in a dirty factory machine.

Can you still get lubriplate grease for the 'Screw A' in the headstock and is their an alternative

we must remember that when this hobby started, it was a luxury, not a necessity , to own a micrometer. I bet they argued there value in those days. How this hobby has developed.

we are all different and enjoy being so

No

Its normally really rubbish stuff full of impurities and voids.

I think D Middleton does whit sized ss bar. its really expensive, but invaluble if you cant find it anywhere else.

try stainless steel suppliers on the net and see what comes up. i have to buy mine in 3 mtr lengths. And dont forget to specify the right grade. SS work hardens

im builing a Triumph super cub at the moment. Its built with some triumph numbered nuts and bolts and some BSA numbered bolts (the last cubs were made at the BSA factory).The tiger cub shops dont do the BSA numbered bolts and the BSa dealers dont do triumph bolts. So I have to make bolts, i hate making bolts, i really hate making bolts.

Mark

You have only half the story.

what do the container ships bring to our shores..............................More paper clips!

My wife keeps releasing large amounts of methane. Should i worry that i will have to replace her with a newer, more enviromentally friendly model

Thanks for coming back and sharing the solution. Bit tough to admit it, but even us experienced engineers make simple mistakes occasionally.

I have just taken delivery of a ME workshop crammed full of stuff that will be useful some time thats still in its wrappers.

A real shame, but he enjoyed buying it at the time.

4 jaw independant and a dti every time. Buy as you need, most things are available within 2 days.

Hope you have safety glasses!

As a guess, the orignal pump would have been built to the plans of the engine. i would think it easier to make a new pump than modify another to fit

Because brass is so easy to machine, we gwt lazy and attack it with whatever tool is set up in the lathe at the time.

Tools that cut brass do not need top rake and to get a better finish, a rounded tool is prefered. Try sticking a bit of mild steel in the chuck and repeating what you have done on brass.

If you are on an ML7 use top speed and if you are on a super 7, one down from top speed would give you a good start. assuming your lathe is bolted down