Member postings for RRMBK

I am still regularly riding my 750 BMW that I bought new 42 years ago. Over its lifetime it has taken me to work regularly and on long distance europe trips. I have carried out various repairs but it still starts first time and I can still get spares for it ( although at rather exorbitant prices!)

I recently visited the Triumph factory at Hinkley, great day out and very interesting . Very tempted by a new bike but will it still be going in 40 years time i'm not sure? will I be able to get spares , I suspect not, can I service and repair it myself absolutely not !!

Exactly the same applies to my 26 year old Peugot based motorhome in comparison with a new one,

Companies profits and shareholders dividends are based on selling us a new item just as often as they possibly can and marketing is based on convincing us that things we might only actually want are things we desperately need.

Like NDIY all my machines are over 40 years old and still perfectly fine.

A very good point Brian ( the other one ! ) but when I swapped my South Bend for the Holbrook I kept most of my chucks, backplates etc and all of them fit perfectly.

I think that boxford cloned the S.B and that the 10B was then subsequently designed to use S.B / Boxford accessories to avoid having to develop new stuff. I suspect the other alternative at the time being the Myford parts, they were considered not beefy enough.

Hi Anthony.

I put the original listing up as mine is no 18 and came to me virtually from its original buyer.

Your chuck backplate should be no problem as it is the same thread and register as a Boxford or South bend so one from either of these can be used. From memory I think it is 1 1/2 " x 8 tpi.

Whereabouts in the UK are you? and are you visiting the Midlands Exhibition? I will be there Fri Sat & sun .

I also have a manual you can photocopy although it isnt really up to much !

Kind regards

Brian

Hi all. Did we ever get to answer the OP original question - where are the drawings to be found.? I would also like to modify my non picador jig and would like to access the drawings. I have looked through the eim index and my back copies of eim but cant find anything.

So if anyone does know or can post the info please share the location!

Can I go back a few posts and pick up the point made by Brian G . I find it difficult to understand the inspectors comments viz :- " consider redesigning the boiler in order to abandon the combustion chamber completely as it cannot be tested before it becomes completely inaccessible "

Firstly if you are re-designing the boiler it is surely no longer a published design benefiting from " grandfather rights" You would need to get the altered design proven by calculation and as Duncan rightly points out who will sign it off? Not the boiler inspector I suspect!

Secondly having built a combustion tube boiler with cross stays for LBSC Uranus which is very similar size to a Brittania boiler in 3 1/2 G, one can either test the combustion chamber alone by blanking off both ends and pressurise from the combustion space outwards.

In my case I also fitted the end tube plate and the embryo firebox and throatplate, and it can then be tested up to full pressure by blanking off the firebox base, and the tubeplate ends and pressurising "inside out and upside down" so to speak. In my case I used an aluminium plate with a rubber gasket around the grate opening with a connection for the boiler test pump and a vent. I did it this way because all these joints were brazed with 750 deg silver solder and the remainder of the boiler is with 580 / 600 to avoid disturbing these joints at the later build stages. This will confirm the cross tube and the throatplate joints.

I agree that boiler inspectors take on a huge responsibility voluntarily on our behalf, and a proper set of standards for design and construction along the lines of the Australian code would at least give them all a standard to work to and avoid individual interpretation.

God forbid we should have an accident somewhere, then everything will be put on hold until we do get a code and a set of standards approved, which wont be a quick process; and the ensuing limbo will mean no one, not even the commercial builders will be in a position to build a boiler without knowing what the future standards will be. So perhaps the way forward is to be proactive and get it before the event.

Citric acid is really good, safe and cheap. you can get 1 kg bags on flea bay for a few quid and I use about one large tablespoon in a mop bucket. cleans up copper easily and quickly and if you have a spill there are no nasty consequences particularly for pets For steel I use brick cleaner. again cheap, easy to buy and as I rarely silver solder large steel items I keep it in a large screw top jar and just drop the item in hot and put the lid back on loose to contain any fumes.

Hi John.

I have the same engine and share your frustration with the very poor standard of the drawings ! My steam manifold ( steam head ) is fitted with two bolts into the manifold which then pass through the spectacle plate and through a square plate with 4 holes in the corners, fitted on the other( front) side of the spectacle plate. This small square plate is then anchored to the spectacle plate with the two bolts above that you can see in the pic. I'm not good with photos and computers but if this doesn,t explain it come back to me. The square plate is shown at the bottom LH corner of drwg 109, but the drawing of the steam head shows all 4 holes as being located in the manifold which is clearly impossible because the plate would then block the entry of the manifold inlet fitting from the boiler.. So basically the two lower holes in the plate match the upper holes in the manifold and the two upper holes in the plate, bolt through the spectacle plate above the manifold.

Kind regards bk.

Had a couple of these in sailing boats over the years. In what way is it "unhappy" Like most little 2 strokes the right mixture, a good spark and clean ports are all they generally need .

Good day all

Does anyone know or have experience of whether it is feasible to test an injector off line against a pressure head by using compressed air? Obviously there is not the same amount of expansive energy available, but will the inlet flow being gas rather than wet steam stop it from working altogether?

+1 for a simple lantern chuck.

I just got an M10 bolt with plain shank of about 12mm left once the head was cut off . Get a number of M 10 nuts and solder or silver solder them onto a piece of scrap brass sheet to cover over the front of the nuts. Then screw nut on , mount in chuck, trim the brass plate to diameter , drill and tap whatever size you want and there is your lantern chuck. Unscrew the nut to fit your screw of whatever thread you choose. Helps to mark the nuts with whatever thread they have been tapped - dont ask how I know !

I actually drilled down into the M 10 bolt end and fitted a little copper pad to cover the top of the M 10 thread with a spigot on the back to locate it in the hole, this prevents damage to the screwhead.. Also to help with longer screws, I fit a loose piece of copper of brass bar into the same hole , the right length to accommodate the length of the screw I want remaining inside the chuck. When doing this I find it best to also tighten up a nut on the inside of the lantern chuck facing / securing nut.

For shortening studs I use a "stud box " A short length of Hex bar say 8mm drilled and tapped through with the thread e.g 6 BA. leave thread tight , I use second taps only. On one end fit a 6 BA bolt and nut. In the other end place your embryo stud. Adjust the bolt and nut to give the exact length of stud you want and lock the nut. Hex bar in lathe and form the end of your stud. Reverse the stud in the stud box and form the other end. " Ditto repeato" This morning I did 20 6 BA x 1/4 long studs in far less time that its taken to type this !!

Happy workshop time All.

After a trawl on the net the best price for a pretty mixed order of B A bits and pieces was with EKP supplies. I placed the order at 15.00 hrs on Monday and the parcel arrived at 10 15 Tuesday . Personally, I think that is excellent service and deserves a mention.

Hi Dean. glad to see you are still working on this huge labour of love. well done and a happy New Year . sent you a PM. bk

Peugot, Citroen & Fiat used column change very successfully on their 90's range of Left hand drive mid range transverse engine vans. The column rod was designed and located to fit directly onto the the top of the selector rod protruding out of the top of the gearbox. It rotated a 1/4 turn either side of neutral and up and down about 1/2 above the centre, to give a sort of vertical gate. When new they were beautifully smooth changing with virtually no lost motion.

The vans were sold in the UK using the Talbot brand name which Peugot owned. Unfortunately whoever was given the thankless task of trying to convert this vertical and rotary movement into a Right hand drive, floor mounted gate about 3 feet away from the selector rod and also with its pivot point below it, ended up creating a pretty good replica in rod and wire, of a ball of wool after the kitten got hold of it.

So many joints that lost motion was inevitable and excessive, as a result of this the vans were never really successful in the UK, whereas in Europe there are still lots of them hard at work.

Couldn't agree more about the beauty of the delectable DS, but the balance characteristics carries on to some new models . I have had two punctures on the rear of my Citroen Picasso at speed and not realised either of them until another motorist flagged me down . No rear passenger in though , I suspect this would have made a difference.

I also learnt to drive on an early side valve Morris J and that gear lever behind you was odd till you got used to it. Even more awkward was that my instructor ( dad ) had to stand up, barking in my ear ( very noisy old vans ) as it only had one seat - no passenger seat fitted to save costs.

Hi All.

Is there any reason that an acetylene regulator cannot be used on a propane cylinder,? the threads and the pressure range is the same. I know about the difference in hose specification but I already have proper propane hoses.

I was wondering really whether it is worth keeping the Acetylene reg as a spare for the propane torch.

Hi.

I have just put a 2" od 1/8 wall 4 2 long Phosphor bronze bush into a cast iron cylinder. I machined the bush to 2 thou oversize. As my lathe turns a slight taper over this length I had 1 thou over at one end and 2 thou at the other.

I put the bush in the freezer and heated the casting bore for 10 mins with a hair dryer. The bush slid in and very soon grabbed fast. It was slightly beyond where I wanted it at one end and I had to put some serious effort into the puller I made to shift it just 5 thou.

What is important is that you get your location right first time. From the look of your application there seems to be no reason why you cant make the bushes "top hat " type so they will positively locate against the frame. However if you have the room to make the "top hat " why not make the bushes a dead fit and secure them in place with three screws into threaded holes at 120 degrees. It would then be an easy matter to replace the bushes at a future date when they wear.

hope this is helpful

kind regards

BK

Hi. Anybody know if the liquid form of this - as opposed to aerosol, is available anywhere in the UK please. My small bottle that has been brilliant for many years is now coming to an end and I would like another, but Starrett uk only list the aerosol and on am***on all suppliers seem to say currently unavailable.

Many thanks

Brian K

Hi Brian, If I filled the boiler with Sal amoniac, would the crystals not also form anywhere else where there is interaction with the air,e.g pipe connections, gauge glass plug cocks etc?

Any boiler inspectors like to comment on filling a boiler with the solution, I does seem a good potential resoloution to the issue.

Many thanks

BK.

Many thanks Brian . That sounds interesting and a potential solution, It would mean me removing the cylinder from the boiler which I am loathe to do for various reasons.

Hi Niel.

I have placed 6 scans in a photo album bearings. they are from " Handbook on the Steam Engine" Dated 1893 but translated by HHPPowles from a german original by Herman Haeder . A very interesting book if you should ever find another copy !!

Hopefully they will give you the answers you need.

Hi all.

I have got to the stage of pressure testing a Plastows Burrell traction only to find that the casting is porous between the steam passage to the regulator chamber, and the now finish bored cylinder. The original casting was bought many years age and bored correctly to size. Finish is nice and smooth with no obvious flaws in the machining, the leak appeared at about 20PSI hence I am assuming a blowhole/ slag inclusion failure.

My thinking is to use some 2" leaded phosphor bronze bar I have on stock to make a liner with say 3mm walls, and insert this into the existing bore. I really don't want to remove the cylinder from the boiler if at all possible and as the bore is true don't see any point in overboring the existing casting.

My queery is how to ensure the new liner stays tight in the bore and creates a steam tight fit. It must also stay in the same relative postion to allow the steam ports to flow . I don't know if loctite will stand the sustained temperatures which would be on both sides, shrink fitting is feasible but in service would the increased expansion of the bronze inside the cast iron cylinder block cause problems?

Steamseal might work with a peg(s) & the end covers to maintain location but it is quite dense and would need a fair gap between the original bore and liner to work I imagine.

Over to you please, given the vast knowledge base out there, and that you all have been so helpful on past occasions.

Many thanks

BK.