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Member postings for Rob Manley

Here is a list of all the postings Rob Manley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Do you get what you pay for ?.
25/04/2010 00:33:32
Another vote for Lyndon - never had problems with them whereas some taps I used to buy from the ME world before I grew wise were almost scrap. 
Thread: RDG Myford Quick Change Tool Post
19/04/2010 16:42:10
Ouch, i see what you mean.  I think i remember buying a bison set with toolpost and three holders for that amount!  But, you cant argue with the quality of them - they are superb.  Still, at least i didnt buy a multifix system - over £200 for a toolpost! 
-firmly sat down. 
18/04/2010 00:06:52
Does anyone know where i can get the Bison/Toolmex ones from?  All of a sudden they seemed to have dissapeared from the face of the earth.  I have heard stories of fettling having to be done before they fitted and really that seems to be silly but hey ho.
Thread: cutting morse taper
15/03/2010 15:20:24
Whatever happens, unless you have a taper turning attatchment and its well made, you will not get a perfect taper.  Once the taper has been cut, take a good 2MT adapter and blue up your taper.  Find the high spots and rub gently with a needle file whilst rotating, repeat, repeat and repeat until you have no high spots.  Just make sure that you clean the adapter and taper every time you try it.   I have made many 2MT splindles for die holders etc, and have never had one come loose using this method. 
R.
Thread: Thread notation
08/03/2010 18:51:39
I have learnt allot by this thread regarding the UNF system I never would have normally and although it has digressed slightly from the original topic is still relevant.  The whole point of these threads is to provoke discussion for the spread of knowledge surely and everyone has their own views, there is no need to defend your corner to the death.
 
There is no ultimate thread system within the model engineering world.  I do not think I have ever used UNF on a model I have made but if the right situation called for it, why not.  Plus, these are only guidelines as if everyone followed the drawing to the nail there would something wouldn't fit.  In industry it probably matters and a conversion to a wider-used system would be a idea, but as most of our tools are second hand from the 50's-60's.....etc. I doubt it matters very much at all.
 
 Robx32

Edited By David Clark 1 on 08/03/2010 21:00:16

08/03/2010 12:04:07
I would avoid going totally metric at all costs, there are generally so many imperial threads for a reason.  I couldnt imagine being limited to a 1mm pitch (as i dont have that many metric fine stuff) for a diameter as small as 6mm for model use. 
 
06/03/2010 13:47:49
Regards stating pitch it is very similar to the metric system, example: M4 as you could have M4x0.7 and M4x0.5.  I was told to keep things on a drawing standard so if all the ME sizes are written 3/16x40 the larger sizes which may also be BSF should be written 1/4x26. 
I have a chart on the wall with each diameter and then the thread options and hole sizes available etc, extremely useful and time saving.  I believe one was given out in the ME a while ago.  
Personally I very much like the system. 
Thread: Which Loco to Build
26/02/2010 17:49:59
What about Boxhill?  Its a very pretty engine, 0-6-0 and would be fairly easy to carry about.
 
https://vault1.secured-url.com/reeves2000/shop_item.asp?sub_cat_id=71
 
If you go to the reeves site there is a page showing most of the engines available on one page.
R.
Thread: ED Racer 'times two'
25/02/2010 17:51:31
Very impressed with the quality of work so far.  Its always fun to cut a complex shape out of a boring solid block,  It looks like a very pretty engine.  Please keep us informed of progress. 
Thread: MG Magnette Automobile MM164
23/02/2010 12:17:42
I have always wondered what the quality of those drawing is like as they appear so cheap when compared to the locomotive drawings.  Any chance of posting some pictures of progress? 
R.
Thread: Castings vs Steel ?
30/01/2010 13:32:16
Cast Iron is also one of the few materials that is ideal for sliding against itself.  Cast Iron on cast iron yes, steel on bronze yes, steel on steel gives poor wear qualities.  A machine tool would be worn in less than half the time if its sliding surfaces were made of steel.  A cross slide is quite a simple shape but because of the wear properties would make steel unsuitable.  Something like a faceplate, if it were of moderate diameter would be extremely heavy in solid steel - a cast one is lighter with cast in strengthening ribs etc. There are many more reasons for the use of cast iron which im sure others will say.  Its also a lovely material to work with aslong as you make sure you get all the dust off your machines - It does not help lubricate the slideways as i heard one person say!
Cast iron will always have a major place in engineering, its just a pity our smaller foundries are disappearing. 
 
Thread: 5/16" by 26tpi - is this a ME thread?
27/01/2010 18:40:56
I have to say that im interested in pretty much everything - clocks, vintage cars & motorbikes,  kit cars, full size road loco's, steam and petrol engine models and i get roped into fixing stuff around the house to earn my keep propa.  So I do tend to use pretty much every type of thread out there - im still finding situations where I dont have the right tap for the job.  T&T are very good for gear cutters, reamers etc but ive waisted money on their taps - I buy J&L now - Lyndon seem to be spot on. 
Of course anyone's advice given here is with respect to their own experience, this is mine
27/01/2010 17:30:38
26tpi is a  British standard Brass thread written as BSB and gets quite alot of use within the ME world as it is quite a strong thread, often used for safety valves. BSF is 22tpi and therefore coarser than the brass.  8mm fine is 25.4tpi and is very close to BSB in that respect.  Personally I would buy the correct tap and die purely because I do not like to mix thread forms and standards on a single model BUT as 8mm is sooooo close, unless anyone came to make a new gland they would never know. 
 
I would buy a set of ME taps and dies to start with, then during the years and exhibitions pick up the BSF, BSW and more BA  taps and dies to complete your set.
Be careful when buying a 'new' set of ME taps and dies, alot of the new stuff is pretty poor. From personal experience I would avoid using a firm whose name begins with T & T.    Rob.
Thread: 2MT Test Bar
26/01/2010 23:46:11
Between centres?
Thread: colchester vertical slide
22/01/2010 12:41:38
Does the colchester have a dovetailed cross slide?  A friends cross slide has dovetails front and rear to allow the fitment of a hydraulic copy attachment, it just slides on and you nip up the clamping bar at the rear.  Could a table be made to slide and clamp onto that (if its got it)  Rob.
Thread: cutting 6BA thread on bronze bar
21/01/2010 16:07:41
Would agree with circlip, a normal die stock against a pad in the tailstock is perfectly good.  Screwcutting BA threads can sometimes be tricky if you dont have the full set of gears can it not (not totally sure as im 100+ miles from my machine tables). 
If you can pick up a coventry die box from an exhibition i would, they are worth it and you can build up you die sets at every exhibition.  
21/01/2010 12:24:03
What make of die are you using and have you used it before on other materials?  Some new ones can still contain burrs from manufature.  It does sound like its not sat square though. 
There are several things to try.  Make sure that you have a chamfer on the end of the spigot before you start threading.  Also, on my die stocks - i think all of them are home made by someone or other - i have drilled and tapped 3 holes in the end and using shallow headed screws, pull the die back so it is always square.
If you wish to used stainless, im sure an internet search would come up with some 6BA stainless cap head screws.  

Edited By Rob Manley on 21/01/2010 12:25:51

Thread: Power hacksaw
18/01/2010 14:48:18
Ive always wondered if the home built power hacksaws are heavy enough in the bow.  I bought a rapidor from a garage the was 'modernising'.  It was under £100 and a single phase motor cost less that £20.  It wasnt clapped out (it was actually extremely good) and now ive put castors on it slides under the bench when needed very easily.   Unless you like making machine tools, which I doo but have far too many other projects on the go, don't rule out finding a nice one
 
Oh, but nice work - looks too good to be a hacksaw.  
 
Yes you need a permanent workshop with a strong floor, yes you will need help shifting it, yes you will be cutting stuff up for the sake of it but this is the god of hacksaws - had one at work and would go through 10" (not that we need it too) easily. (nothing to do with me)
 
You can search Ebay for hacksaws.

Edited By David Clark 1 on 17/07/2012 16:15:32

Thread: Douglas engine......again
18/01/2010 14:05:42
Just to let those interested the site has been recently updated with extra parts filled in although it is still very much under construction.  I hope to see many of you at the Reading SME's 100 years exhibition in september 2010. 
Thread: bonded crankshaft
18/01/2010 13:59:09
Oh and one more reason not to use loctite - it ain't half expensive!  A one thou per inch press fit doesn't cost a penny aslong as you don't consider you time too valuable. 
 
Oh and every time I see capitols used I always imagine brian blessed  talking, so Ramon that's who i've got in my head now keep up with the good advice. 
 
Press on
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