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Member postings for Terryd

Here is a list of all the postings Terryd has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: 2-stroke timing
07/05/2010 04:15:58
Well said Jeff,
 
I was trying not to confuse the issue with too much info. But all the steps you suggest are the right ones, However Keith I would try them one at a time and test the starting each time.  This may be a bit of a pain but will isolate the problem and you will know what to look for next time.
 
Always go for the simplest first and test a stage at a time.Ensuring the removal of water and checking loose, broken wiring for open/short circuits are the most likely if the engine worked perfectly before but I would start with a new Spark plug - cheap and high on the likely list if water has been in the system.
 
 
Terry
06/05/2010 21:39:54
Try a new spark plug first - that solved my similar problem. Why should the magneto have moved on the shaft?  The motor presumably was ok before the water got in the fuel - so try the obvious first.
 
I had a friend who was university trained auto engineer and when his cars wouldn't work he always tried the most esoteric solutions but it always turned ot to be the most simple solution as I predicted.  He used to get really pissed off with me

Terry
Thread: 2 questions - threading silver steel; tightening bar in the chuck
06/05/2010 17:39:33
Posted by Stub Mandrel on 05/05/2010 19:40:47:
 
0.00001" is about 0.00025mm - 250 nm.
Neil
 
Hi Neil,
 Just a minor correction,
 
A nanometre (nanometer for our North American friends)  is equal to 1 billionth of a metre i.e nine zeros.  So 250 nm would have six zeros before the number i.e. 0.000000250.  However I agree about the accuracy and the difficulty in obtaining Meyrick's level of accuracy in a normal workshop.  As well as the need for temperature control there is a need for consistent pressure on the vernier or micrometer.  We all know that a relatively small variation in pressure can make a thou or two difference so what is the point in trying to achieve a hundredth of a thou.
 
For such accuracy we used comparators which did not rely on manual manipulation.
 
Terry
06/05/2010 11:55:35
Apart from all the joking, in the inspection dept I worked in we had manual micrometers which measured to a 1/10th of a thou.  They had a vernier gauge around the barrel which measured at least down to 1/10th.
 
However they had to be kept in a temp controlled environment as did the items to be measured.  These had to be held in the controlled environment until the temperature was stabilised. i.e . the Standard of 20deg C (68F).  Unless you can control temperature of equipment and components to these standards the fine measurements we are discussing are meaningless hence the development of tolerance systems to accomodate variations.
 
And of course if you are using components in a heated environment such as any heat engine the fine accuracy goes out of the window. Especially if using materials of different co-efficient of linear expansion which inevitably we are.
 
The toolroom was a different matter of course.
 
Terry
06/05/2010 07:22:32
Please guys,
 
You should know better than question Meyrick.  He who is so superior to us mortals with expertise and experience in all fields of human endeavour.  Surely it is enough to sit round his feet and bask in the glory of being present to such a superior being and wonder at his glorious knowledge.
 
Our poor human offerings are  are meaningless in the face of such perfection.
Thread: Anodising
06/05/2010 06:48:08
Hi Ramon,
 
At least you will have the experience and some expertise i anodising and have the kit to do more in future, which would not be the case had you visited the 'guy up the road'.  At very least you have something to sell if needs be.
 
I have every confidence in your success

Best regards

Terry
05/05/2010 07:22:55
Hi again Ramon,
 
Sorry about the multiple posts but you might like to look at the proper dyes available here for not too extortionate a price:
 

Regards,

Terry
05/05/2010 07:16:29
Hi Ramon,
 
I just noticed from your post that you used Dylon cold water dyes.  These are the ones that apparently don't work.  Here is a link which I posted before that may help,
 
 
Best regards
 
Terry
Thread: Marking out fluid
05/05/2010 05:01:09
When I was in Tech College during my apprentice training, we used copper sulphate solution as a marking fluid.  It left a brown (metallic copper I presume) long lasting, non flaking deposit on the surface of the component.  It also was a matt surface which showed up thin marking lines well.  However, the thought of trying to buy copper sulphate crystals now is probably slightly more difficult than sourcing TNT.  I can't remember how we removed it though (I was too preoccupied with the girls from Hairdressing 1 to concentrate on our tweedy lecturer).
 
I think that this only works with steel though.  However I find that permanent markers here in the UK provide a non flaking, long lasting coating.  In fact I find the stuff difficult to remove and have to resort to acetone as a solvent.  The marker is clean, easy to control and doesn't rub off or stain fingers and keeps well.  I have used mine for quite a time now without problem.
 
Dear Sid H. you're really lucky to be able to get any engineering equipment or component locally.  I called in in my local engineering supplier today to find out that they stock very few items now as there is so little of the engineering industry left in this town which was once world famous for it's engineering prowess and products.  They now mostly sell builders and diy tools.  Sad but true.
Thread: 2 questions - threading silver steel; tightening bar in the chuck
04/05/2010 22:24:30
Posted by Martin W on 16/04/2010 15:57:20:

 
 I would advise that you NEVER put your personal email address on any open sites like forums because then it is open to abuse from malicious 'nere do wells' whose IQ is  inversely proportional to the amount of time they have on their hands.
 
 
Hi Martin,
 
They're not that intelligent, believe me.  The problem is , they think they are

Terry
Thread: Anodising
04/05/2010 21:52:01
Hi Dave and Ramon,
 
You are right about the dye problem,  The only dye I have seen reported as working is one  of the older Dylon types others do not work as far as I know.  however the cost of 'proper' anodising dyes, inexpensive as they may seem, is prohibitive for very small scale or one off pieces.
 
A good essay on this is in this guy's experiments (and photographic proof):
 
 
Here is a quote from this site:-

"The only clothes dye that I have found that works is Dylon Multi-Purpose dye. Other Dylon brands do NOT work. I guess the dye particles are not small enough. Dyes that do not work include the Dylon COLD range and the dylon PURE COLOUR range."
 
Probably those who swore at the dyes Dave, were using the wrong ones?
 
So Ramon, it may be the type of dye you are using as well as the other factors suggested.  The site above is well worth investigating even if it is a covered with annoying adverts, you can navigate around those  .

I'm not sure if Dylon make these types of dye (Multi-Purpose) any more so it may be worth stocking up if you find a supply at the back of some old haberdashery  store  .

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 04/05/2010 22:19:53

04/05/2010 21:36:10
Of course washing soda can defat but not as much as Caustic soda of course but I assume most users will at least adhere to the normal housewife's safety standards and  wear rubber (in my case nitrile) gloves.  But then again my gran used washing soda all her life for many purposes and still lived to a good old age.  I'm not so sure she would have had the same luck using the caustic version so much 
 
Terry
Thread: ED Racer 'times two'
04/05/2010 21:28:51
Dear LAD Machining,
 
Of course you're correct, I hang my head in shame  ,

Dihydrogen Monoxide it is - but it's still dangerous

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 04/05/2010 21:29:08

Thread: Digital editions of Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop.
03/05/2010 09:09:30
Hi Jim,
 
Just a thought,  are you sure that you're looking in the correct place?  The free access 'Digital Issues' files only go back to issue 122, but these are not the same as the paid for subscription archives which include all MEW.
 
 Regards,
 
Terry
Thread: Shaper Tools
03/05/2010 00:34:58
This will not be of much help with your problem, but I used these machines a lot during my time as an apprentice (much too long ago to admit to) and must say that it was one of my favourites to use.  The simplicity and versatility of the shaper in many ways makes it superior even to the milling machine.  It is capable of cutting profiled shapes as well as flat surfaces and can create complex shapes such as tee slots with very simple tooling. No slot drills or end mills etc, no collet systems and dozens of adaptors, just simple tools which could be formed and sharpened on an offhand grinder in seconds.  All you really need is a lump of tool steel and a means of hardening it. (although brazed tungsten tips were quite common even then).
 
How I envy you having such a machine.  I also find the repetitive action almost meditational.  In fact I think I'll go and look out for one asap
 
As I recall we used mostly straight tooling, not joggled. I don't think that the geometry of the hinge centre on the clapper box has much influence as the clapper box should be supported by the face of the toolpost and ram during the cutting stroke and as long as there is no wear or play on the mechanism of the hinge it should be ok.  It is also important that the front of the table be supported, but mostly this is for accuracy as if there was play the workpiece would tend to be thrust downwards away from the tool hence little chance of digging in.
 
I have used several of these machines of various size, from quite small to seriously large ones and never came across the problem you are describing.  1/2" square tooling seems quite small to me and I seem to recall that the smallest we used was around 3/4". I feel that you problem is one of general wear and you need to run the machine as slowly as possible, and carefully observe what is happening when the machine is operating. Check the gib strips of the ram for play and adjust, as you should with all the other adjustments such as the vertical slideways etc. I think it will be a process of trial and error, but it will be worth it!
 
As an aside, we used to have a couple of planing machines which operated on a similar principle to the shaper but had tables of 24 foot long by 6 foot wide.  On these machines it was the table which moved with workpiece mounted under a large clapper type mechanism which held the tool, often 2" section and larger.  They were something to watch, believe me.
 
Best of luck,
 
sorry not to have been much help but let us know how you get on and report regularly.  Try filming the machine in detail when cutting and sticking the video on YouTube and perhaps we could have a look see and advise, just a thought
 
Best regards
 
Terry

Edited By Terryd on 03/05/2010 00:39:01

Thread: "Foundation" book has got me worried
02/05/2010 22:48:16
Hi John,
 
textiles are absorbent, after all cotton is recognised as being super absorbent hence it's use for garments next to the skin.  If you wrap your  equipment in textile you are wrapping it in an absorbent material.  Hence you are effectively wrapping it in a 'damp blanket'.  As you say, card and paper feel damp after being exposed to that environment and no matter how low the humidity these materials will absorb any moisture available, they are hygroscopic after all.
 
I wrap my machines in polythene or pvc sheeting.  My reasoning is that the small amount of air trapped inside that envelope can only carry a small amount of moisture.  This can be absorbed by a small amount of silica gel (in sachet form) in this envelope,  and because the plastic sheet is not porous, no more moisture can enter. Ergo, little or no rust.
 
The idea that somehow textiles are 'breathable' (only living things can breathe - people are confused, they mean 'porous') means that moisture can pass into the envelope within as well as out and will always balance the moisture content on both sides. Hence, using textiles covers means that you will always have moisture contacting the equipment inside.  This is the reason that manufacturers covers are always made from  non-porous, close fitting plastic sheeting and not textiles.
 
Just my opinion, but based on reason and experience, not emotion or 'bad science'

By all means use protective coatings, I use a commercial product, large plastic bags (easy to put on and remove) and silica gel to protect my kit and never have a problem even in my detached, unheated, rather damp, large garage/workshop. Oh and I also work most of the year round, but protect in between.  I must admit that am going to try using 4 x 60W  filament lamps wired in series below one of my machines as suggested elsewhere on another thread, next winter as an experiment.
 
If you need any advice at all, don't be afraid to ask there is always someone who can offer good sound advice on these forums and will be willing to help.

Welcome to the roller coaster,
 
Best regards,

Terry
02/05/2010 11:21:54
Hi John, 
 
can I ask why you think that you have to wrap your machines in 'heavy cloths or blankets'.  I'm not sure about any advantage and I believe that there are many disadvantages in using textiles in this way.
 
Terry
Thread: Darjeeling Saddle Tank 0-4-0 New series starting in ME 4378
02/05/2010 10:28:46
Neil,
 
As you probably know these engines were known as Fireless Steam Locomotives.  The steam receiver would be charged from an existing static boiler in the factory and would operate for several hours before being re charged (depending on usage of course).
 
They were used where a normally fired loco could not be used due to dirt and smoke.  Examples were used in places when cleanliness was important such as food and paper manufacturing (and I presume breweries such as Bass), where the fire of a normal loco was a hazard such as munitions or where there was a copious supply of readily available cheap steam.
 
The last ones were made as late as the early 1960's.  They had the advantages of being very simple and cheap to build and run, using readily available steam from an existing static boiler. They also had the advantages of steam power, e.g. high torque at low speed, no gearing, flexibility etc and were easy to maintain due to their simplicity.
 
There are several preserved and sometimes run being charged with steam from the boilers of normal locos. 
 
Terry
Thread: Disassembling of Minimill / X2-clone / XJ-12 Ballbearings
02/05/2010 05:41:46
Hi Marcus.
 
there are some good CAD tutorials here:
 
 
They are in English but I'm sure that you'll manage.
 
Best regards
 
Terry
Thread: Rugby Model Engineering Society
01/05/2010 16:02:57
You're right John,
 
Thanks for the message,
 
regards
 
Terry
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