Member postings for Terryd

LOL

I'll take a metre if the price is right,

Best Regards

Terry

Hi Jason,

great work as usual, how did you manage to hold such a complex structure togather while brazing? I love your techniques shown in your postings on the other forum,

Best regards

Terry

Hi,

I made a simple plenum chamber from a 5 litre plastic paint container with a sealable lid. Hose from workshop vac (German replacement for Earlex lost in fire - wish I'd stuck to Earlex, much better quality) to bit of poly waste pipe stuck in lid of container/plenum (silicone sealant) and spare hose from plenum to machine. Also use it on my wood bandsaw with an adaptor to fit 4" outlet.

I originally made it to trap abrasive from a home sand blasting machine. Worked a treat, I used an old discarded home vac, worked well as hose from plenum chamber at 2" dia was larger than the vac hose.

Best regards

Terry

One of the best oils for rust protection is Camellia oil - used historically by the Japanese to preserve tools and swords (Also for Sumo Wrestlers hair dressing ). It is expensive to buy for this purpose but is also sold for essential oils use more cheaply. eBay is a good source. I use it on my machine surfaces and can only report good results.

Another oil for rust prevention is of course Lanolin which was used extensively in industry for preventing rust on bright Steel and tubing, it is a by product of wool production - sheeps fleece contain it.

Best regards

Terry

Hi John,

You have opened a real can of worms here. Ask ten model engineers that question and you get twenty answers.

Just for the record I have a Weiss milling machine (same model as the Warco WM18), a Warco WM280 VF lathe and a Boxford BUD from the 1970s (was a CUD but I added a cross feed apron that I had). If I had to choose it would be the Boxford - no competition in my opinion. You can pick them up for a good price with lots of tooling (which can double the price of a lathe). You can afford to make the normal mistakes a beginner - and experienced - turner is bound to make as they are pretty bomb proof. I would even cope initially with a vertical slide for milling on the lathe if I were making smallish model steam engines.

If you decided to carry on you could sell the Boxford, probably for what you paid and invest in all singing and dancing, whistles and bells machinery (sorry about mixing the metaphors). An AUD with slotted cross slide is the one to look out for.

Best regards

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 02/12/2012 12:19:45

Hi Neil,

If you think that is a problem, after the conflagration that was my garage workshop the first great Loss Adjuster surveyed upon the scene and liked it not. "We have wondrous power, will demolish, clear the site and rebuild". Then a second Lord Loss Adjuster frowned and with great wisdom sayeth "no need to demolish, fear not we can repair". I said "but floor of concrete is damaged", Adjuster 2 looked down on me fondly and said "fear not O little one, I know best".

Two years have since passed, still problems with patched floor, friable concrete and negative camber from door and there was great wailing and gnashing of teeth (from mke). Lo enter Loss Adjuster 3 to survey the chaos. When the scales fell from his eyes he saw the devastation "dear oh dear what a mess, but our brother adjusters one and two are no longer with us, worry not we will rip up the old floor and re-lay the concrete to it's former glory - it will be a wondrous sight to behold".

So now they will deliver unto us a wondrous storage unit in which to keep safe the treasures of my workshop and leave me bereft of workshop for another 6 weeks "Hmmph" said I unto the Main Man.

And you're worried about a drop of water and dust!

Best regards

resignedly yours

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 01/12/2012 17:31:43

Lovely,

Just right to keep a nice moist environment around the machine with its absorbed moisture. Better use plenty of oil. You stick to cotton, I'll keep using my vinyl which forms a complete barrier against moisture.

Myford sold their covers to hobbyists as well.

Bazyle,

My covers keep an enclosed environment around the machine as they use magnetic strips. Silica gel can be microwaved in a few minutes to dry it out.

Regards

T

Hi,

I would not advocate the use of any fabric materials to cover bare steel worksurfaces as they absorb and hold moisture, cotton especially. Cotton is used for clothing as it absorbs moisture and holds it very well. All the lathe manufacturers used to supply covers as an extra, Myford and Boxford used transparent vinyl. Earlier ones used a coated fabric.

I use clear vinyl sheet shaped and sewn to suit each machine. I also leave a couple of large bags of silica gel on each machine (on painted surfacea) and have a magnetic strip around the bottom of the cover to create a dry mini environment around each machine. Keep the ways oiled and I have no problems with rust in an unheated detached garage.

In severe weather I have heaters made from a couple of 40W incandescent bulbs on a base connected in series to provide a gentle heat under each machine.

Regards

T

Edited By Terryd on 01/12/2012 11:52:22

RDG

Regards

T

Jusat to say a couple of my chucks are HBM and the three jaw is one of the most accurate chucks I have used, including my Burnerd ones. How long they will perform I don't yet know but I am impressed so far.

I also agree with the remarks about sending the faulty chuck back. It obviously was not 'fit for purpose'. However, now you have filed it, that route may not be possible.

Regards

T

I subscribe to a digital version of a high quality American woodworking magazine. It costs a fraction of the paper copy (around $10 for 6 months) and has many varied articles. I can save it or print it easily. It is because it is inexpensive that no one would bother to copy and redistribute it. It is the high cost of digital subscriptions in the UK that is the real problem.

T

hi,

Melton Mowbray has a club, There is a list of cubs here,

Regards

Terry

Hooray,

t

Hi All,

These lamps look a good solution, but I already have some clip on goose neck adjustabe halogen lamps from Homebase at £5.99 a go. Good lamps with transformer as they use 12v JC-G4 bulbs. I bought some low cost led equivalents for them but it flickers a bit, the transformer probably needs smoothing will investigate when I get time.

Regards

Terry

Hi,

Why not 4x4 fence posts, you should allow for 2x4 or 2x6 long spreaders at top and bottom. Folding wedges at bottom will adjust accurately - nail wedges into spreaders when loaded. You could use the fence posts afterwards for a new fence or sell them on.

Regards

Terry

Hi Phil,

If you decide to use mild steel you can anneal it to make it more malleable. In order to blue it you can use a domestic oven. I use a small domestic oven for tempering and it will easily reach above blueing temperature. Ovens thermostats are often not very accurate so you will need to test it. Try it first at about 250ºC and increase by about 20º increments until you reach the desired result. Using an oven ensures accurate and even colouring which is not so easy with a flame. For a nice blue you will need about 300ºC. It can then be oiled to protect it.

Best regards

Terry

Hi Mike,

Don't forget grey - I used Rapidors in industry and a few schools and they were all Grey/Red colour schemes. They would all have been bought in the 50s and 60s so they didn't succumb to the 1970s 'Reseda Green Everywhere' syndrome. I think that Grey/Red is rather smart (My University's colours) .

Regards

Terry

Hi Robin,

That is similar to a Wanner gun which I used to have, but they cost - around £60 to £70 for the basic gun. Re the spring, it is usual to tension the spring with the loop at the bottom , itshould be attached to a chain (or is that the 'ratchet' you mention?) which pulls the pressure piston down the loading tube so that the top can be removed to pack the grease in. It needs to be extra long in order to pressurise the grease. You should be able to pull it down and lock the spring tight with the chain (by twisting a link) if it's there, then you can screw the top off and load the grease, you don't release the spring until the top is back on.

The 'bleed screw' is to release the pressure when the gun has locked on to a nipple which is what these type of guns should do when being used. Otherwise you would not be able to release it from the nipple. Hope that helps

Best regards

Terry

Hi Dave,

Why not consult the Jacobs site? They should have the definitive answers rather than opinions.

Regards

T