Member postings for Steve F

Hello

I use LibraOffice. You can get it here **LINK** It's free and if you use msoffice you will recognise a lot of the apps. It does word, excel etc

regards

Steve

Hello

If it's layer adhesion you want then try ASA. I have used it quite a bit and i like it. The layer adhesion is the best i have seen just above ABS or try HIPS (airfix plastic type). If you wanted to stick with PLA type then ESUN PLA+ is good and tough.

regards

Steve

regards

Steve

Hi

They do sell stuff on Ebay. Their shop is Ford eight.

**LINK**

regards

Steve

Hello

I made 2 curved spoke flywheels from cast iron slices. I have the details somewhere. Is this what you want ?

regards

Steve

Hello

I think the 2 email addresses that come up are stored in your browser saved passwords. It Firefox it's in settings-privacy & security-saved logins. You can edit or delete them there. Other browsers are similar

regards

Steve

Hello

One big advantage

You can add a 4th scale maybe to the quill. The App then allows you to add this axis value to say the Z and show the combined value.

The unit has a Tacho feature. Handy if your mill doesnt have this like eg mini mill

regards

Steve

Hello

Thanks for the reply. I'll keeps my eyes open

regards

Steve

Hello Gray

I'm very interested in your modifications to the mill. I have one sitting in the box. I feel inspired to set it up and have a go. I saw a photo of the spindle change to ER but couldn't find the details anywhere. Was there a diagram somewhere ?

I would also like to see more details of the power feed / clutch arrangement. I had a similar arrangement on my old mill but your clutch housing looks good.

If you ever consider using stepper take some care. You will still get cogging from a unpowered stepper and the stepper will generate a back emf into the controller that could destroy the drivers.

regards

Steve

Hello

I have been printing for a while and at one time had 4 printers.

The Ender 3 was and still is my recommendation if you are new to all this. Buy the cheapest refurbished unit. There is a company that sells them. Learn how to use it. Hammer the life out of it and decide if 3d printing is for you then buy something better.

The Ender 3 pro had a lot of credit upgraded this that and the other, Meanwell power supply etc. Meanwell is a recognised maker of power units.

Creality are now shipping Own Brand power supplies on the pro. You may not get what you are expecting for the extra money.

Video here from the TH3D lot **LINK**

Hello Chris

Can i just say be careful of the stuff on Ebay. I have had some pretty rubbish stuff arrive in the past. There is good stuff on there but it can be a bit random.

I think you are far better buying material from somewhere like Macc models directly or on Ebay or EKP supplies who also sell mixed size stock packs. At least you know what you are buying.

regards

Steve

Hello

I use Thunderbird now having lost my MSOffice account.

I use it to keep track of 6 email account addresses. 2 on gmail, 1 on yahoo, 1 on outlook and 2 on btinternet. It works fine.

Only thing to be aware of.

When you add your accounts top Thunderbird make sure you use IMAP. This leaves the mail on the server. That way you can access it from other devices if needed.

If you make a mistake and use POP the emails will be downloaded to the PC and then deleted from the server. There was a setting to "leave the mail on the server" somewhere.

regards

Steve

Hello Rob

Welcome to the forum.

There are plenty of clever people here to help you. A proper font of all Knowledge.

Earlier this year you welcomed me to your forum. I have just received my first 7mm gauge kit for Christmas and i am currently building a RSU so may post something there soon.

regards

Steve

Hi

You could also buy them from Blackgates

regards

Steve

Hello

It's those springs. All it takes is a little knock or rough handling when removing a part and the bed shifts. The bed should be levelled when the bed is hot because it distorts. This is why in installed a levelling probe on mine. The probe does a 9 point test before every print and adjusts the print to suit.

regards

Steve

Hello

There was a really interesting build on the modelenginemaker forum a few years ago. Sadly some of the photos have disappeared. It was about a Conway build. The thread is here **LINK** it's 83 pages. The chap doing the build used OxyPropane and wrote another article about the setup here **LINK**

regards

Steve

Hi

Bruce Engineering (Polly) sell it

regards

Steve

Hello

You might want to look here **LINK**

regards

Steve

You could try this stuff

regards

Steve

Hello

Getting the extrusion correct can have a large effect on X Y size Dont be tempted to fiddle with X Ysteps /mm as they are fixed by the mechanics

On the Ender 3 the extrusion E step value is more than likley wrong. In Configuration/Advanced settings/Steps mm.The value for E/steps mm that relates to the extruder. It meters the filament input. I think the default value is 93. So this gives 93 steps to move 1mm of input filament. I think the value should be 99. Its easy enough to do.

Measure and mark the filament 120mm from the extruder. Heat up the hotend and tell it to extrude 100mm. Obviously there should be 20mm left. If not you need to adjust the 95 value to correct the error. You only do this once.

Next you need to calibrate the extrusion multiplier. Draw up a cube 20mm square. Tell it to print 0% infill and select say 0.8mm wall thickness. Stop the print part way through and measure the wall. It should be 0.8mm. If not you need to adjust the feed rate to get this .The default is 100% so if the wall was 0.9 you are over extruding and the value should be 0.8/0.9 X 100 = 88%. You need to do this every time you swap filament rolls to get a value for the new roll. You will end up with a value to match each roll because different filament melts and squirts differently.

I put these values in startup G code and comment out the unused values.

;M221 S100

;M221 S136 Fibrology petg

M221 S95 Colorfabb XT

Happy to talk more via PM if needed

regards

Steve

Hi

I have been using Cura for some time. I lost it when v4 came along and the screen / interface all moved. I went back to v3.3.1 and i find it much better. i'm using it now as we speak. You might want to try it and see.

regards

Steve