Member postings for Tony Marshall

Yes, nothing wrong with your reading skills, Bandersnatch.

I considered putting the scale, magnetic in my case, on the front but I just didn't want to clutter things up. I reasoned that I could always relocate it if it didn't work out and so far so good. I estimate that the y-axis travel has been reduced by about 25mm but I have not yet measured it.

Cheers, Tony

Edited By Tony Marshall on 05/03/2017 12:39:13

Correction to my previous post: angle is 58°

I also got the ER25 set and now think that the ER32 would have been better but mainly because I have MT2 on both the mill and the lathe and having the option to hold > 16mm stock would be nice. FWIW I have cutters larger thatn 16mm but with 16mm shanks.

Hi Trevor, see my album "WM16 gets a DRO" for my take on this. I did not use any of the supplied brackets, instead I opted to make a special bracket to carry the Y-axis read head at 68° to the vertical. The x-axis read head has a simpler bracket which is held in place using the fixing screws for the neoprene swarf guard.

Cheers, Tony

Echo: SHCS??

I have been the happy owner of the smaller sibling, WM16, for several years with no serious issues.

On mine the bellows limit the downward travel of the head. The quill handles can also get in the way and I sometimes need to unscrew one or more of the spokes.

Also, the x-axis locking screw handles can foul the front of the y-axis dovetail and bend the screw. Sheer carelessness on my part.

I never managed to eliminate all the backlash, but I didn't try too hard. Since fitting a DRO that problem has become somewhat academic.

Wish I had fitted a power-feed though.

Cheers, Tony.

I stand corrected. My reference books must have American contributors. Note to self, don't make assumptions. Many thanks.

Take a look at the thread "Fake Mitutoyo Digital Callipers on eBay" (not my spelling!) from a couple of years ago before taking the plunge.

FWIW I have Mitutoyo and Tesa on my bench. I prefer the Tesa because it has a thumbwheel. I also have a cheap one that does fractions languishing in a drawer now that the novelty has worn off.

Part of the G.H.Thomas rear tool post courtesy Hemingway. Starting point is a 5" x 7/8" mild steel bar. Quite pleased with it but it took me over 5 hours to complete - not including machine clean up time! While I enjoy watching these things take shape, I do wish I could work a bit quicker.

Having been stuck with a bad foot for a couple of days I created a table of drill bit sizes. Yes, another one! This is in a format that suits my purposes, that's my excuse. Here is a pic. If anyone wants a pdf or Excel file then PM me. Now I'm off to warm up the workshop.

Such an obvious question, someone must have raised it before. I have looked but cannot find anything. Preemptive apologies.

Is it possible to upload pdf's, Word or Excel documents etc.?

If it is possible, where are they all?

More apologies,

Tony

Addendum to previous post - the old (smaller) vice is a Warco 5478. The pic below shows the new vice in its final resting place. Swivel base removed - just too bulky. As an added bonus the mounting points suit the table slot spacing!

Good luck,

Tony

Just took delivery of a 4" vice from Arc Euro Trade to replace the one I bought with my Warco WM16 a few years ago. Here are the two side by side.

In this orientation, there is considerable overhang at the rear limiting the Y travel. This is compensated for, to some extent, by the fixed jaw being further back than my old one.

Without the swivel base the jaws are about 122mm above the table; removing the base bring the new one down 30mm to about the same height as the old one.

Seems ok so far.

Cheers, Tony

Just added a 'proper' saddle clamp to replace the old ring spanner that was always in the way or not there.

For travel insurance I've used Saga, Age Concern, Explorer and others. At the end of the day I'm afraid you just have to grit your teeth and spend a few hours on the internet seeking out quotations based on your particular circumstances. I've needed a pacemaker since 1990 (on my 4th I think) and still find it awkward going through the questionnaires, especially when I have to divulge personal details to some stranger on the phone. Worth it in the end though.

Apart from that, I'm getting close to having my Super 7B commissioned. Yay! I have repainted my old industrial stand which came with the ML7 I bought a few years ago, and am currently trying to get the electrics working. The stand is fitted with 3-phase switches, contactor etc. and my rotary convertor puts out 3-phase 230V. The contactor coil requires 415V which I provide from a step-up transformer. My problem now is that the overload protection on the contactor kicks in as soon as I push the start button. There is an adjustor there, currently set to about 1.25A. Cliffhanger! Had to quit because dinner was ready.

North of the border if you walked into a bar you would probably not be interested in whether it was pipe or tube. But if you went into a pub and asked for a tuber you might not get what you expected. It would be piping hot though.
My old car has inner tubes which have seams. Being pedantic I suppose torus would be better term. Sounds like a load of bull.
Please make it stop! Ahh, another pint of medication. Now, where's that pipe thread thread?

Just as a point of interest, there was a device sold on ebay recently (item no. 121360098886). To me it looks like a home-brew job but it should make holding the wires in place less of a problem.

Tony.