Here is a list of all the postings Deric has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Vfd frequency Warco WM290 and WM280v |
30/08/2021 14:27:35 |
Thank you, ChrisB and Cabinet enforcer. Those are useful, cabinet enforcer, you only use the two pulleys on motor and spindle like the original set up of the WM280v. Did you keep the original spindle pulleys and change the motor pulleys? With regard to the motor have you mounted it under the original motor position on the back of the bed? Like the 290’s position. D |
28/08/2021 13:09:24 |
Hello, all, To those owners of the Warco WM290 vf lathe. I am planning to remove the DC motor and drive system from my WM280v and replace with a vfd and 3 phase motor. I plan to copy the set up used on the wm290. Does anyone know the frequency limits set in the inverter for top and bottom speeds ie range B 150-2500? I know the inverter is ‘buried’ inside the machine but has anyone had a look? By calculation, given a 4 pole motor at 50hz is 1400rpm and from manufacturers (TRC) data max frequency of 75hz. I have calculated that at the spindle 2500rpm would be 75hz whilst 150rpm would equate to approx 5hz. For those of you with an older WM280v. Has anyone converted a WM280 to the WM290 spec? What belts and pulses did you use? TIA Deric
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Thread: Hallite washers |
12/07/2020 18:47:45 |
Thanks to all of who have chipped in, your comments are much appreciated. im going to go for the PTFE solution. Thanks again Deric |
12/07/2020 09:57:29 |
i have been offered some glass impregnated PTFE to make washers which I think meant to compress and ‘protect’ the oring. Given that Super Simplex was designed in the mid 80’s Hallite washers were probably the most suitable for this application. do you think the PTFE will do as good a job, given that it’s good for over 300DegC? |
11/07/2020 15:43:49 |
Hello, all I have been building Super Simplex fir a long time now and have finally got to the superheater, which is now almost finished. In order to seal the regulator output to the superheater the drawing calls for two 1/32” Hallite washers 3/4” od x 1/2” id. These washers sandwich an Oring and are fitted in the output boss on the boiler and the superheater boss when fitted and tightened compress the oring ti form the seal. I have asked the usual suppliers if they can supply these Hallite washers and it seems no one does and doesn’t know what they are! can anyone help me with where I can get these? and if you have built Super Simplex what did you use? TIA regards Deric
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Thread: Super Simplex Valve gear |
24/09/2019 21:29:45 |
Evening all, |
Thread: Free High Speed Steel |
08/01/2019 14:56:15 |
Hello, Roger, I've just sent you a PM I am a friend of Bazyle's we are both members of EDMES (Exeter and district model engineering society). I'm sure we could put these to good use. I live in Dawlish so not far from you. Regards Deric |
Thread: using the Worden |
08/08/2018 21:41:40 |
Thank you all for your comments. I spoke ti Kirk at Hemingway and he very kindly helped me with a copy of the instructions. Excellent service and I am very grateful, I have previously built the Worden and accessories, bending rolls and the graduating tools all of which have proved enjoyable to make and proved to be useful tools. Thanks again Deric |
06/08/2018 21:11:17 |
can anyone help me with a copy of the instructions which came with the 4 facet drill sharpening jig from Hemingway, please. After house and workshop moves some of my paperwork has gone 'missing'. If anyone can help I would be very grateful. Regards
Edited By Deric on 06/08/2018 21:12:22 |
Thread: Maxitrak class 66 build |
07/07/2016 10:36:19 |
has anyone else built or have a class 66 kit build in progress? I have a particular problem with fit of the grp exhaust box moulding into the steel roof. The moulding appears to me to have the 'wrong profile' to fit inside the steel roof, the moulding has the profile of the outside of the roof, being, I believe, cut from a complete roof moulding which Maxitrak used to supply with this kit but for some reason discontinued it. So, if anyone out there has built one of these please help me with how you made it work for you and if possible a picture or two. Best regards Deric
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Thread: 3" Burrell build |
06/03/2014 22:40:42 |
thank you again for your photos, they gave me the confidence to tackle my pump. We fitted it yesterday and all went well. I have put some pictures of the progress so far in the album. by the way what did you do to the pump? was there a problem? We noted that you have had rubber tyres fitted too. Hope you like the pictures
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05/03/2014 08:12:21 |
Morning, Harry, that was most useful, thank you very much. You pump is obviously not of the castings and we were wondering if you had fabricated it? It looks like you have had it off to modify it, what was reason for that? we are back in the workshop today and are going to have go at that pump and get it fixed on the hornplate. I'll put some pictures in my album later. Deric |
04/03/2014 09:14:55 |
Morning, Harry, Thanks for you reply. What I'm looking for is a picture of the pump side on from the right and left hand sides. So that I can see the fixing bolts and the angle of the pump ram connecting rod. Also, regarding the bottom fixing bolt, where abouts is it in relation to the second shaft flange. I note that your pump ram has the connecting rod fixed at the top l I have followed the original drawings which has the connecting rod fixed at the bottom inside the ram. I guess you have the new drawings? if you can help with another couple of pictures it will be much appreciated regards Deric |
02/03/2014 22:50:48 |
Good evening, William, i have put some more pictures in the Burrell album for you, I have been rather slow in updating the album. I will try to do better! my brother and I have building this engine for about 18 months now, we live 240 miles apart so progress can be slow. Now, regarding the drawings, we have a set of the original 1970's 'dye line' pen and ink drawings. They were bought secondhand in 1983 along with a set of castings and a partial built smokebox. They gathered dust in my brother's garage until 18 mths ago when we dug them out. I cannot vouch for the new drawings from Bridport Foundry I would hope that some of the issues have been found and rectified. The original drawings are ok for most things but we have errors, quite a few of them too, but if you don't just blindly start making bits and carefully check dimensions of of those parts connected to or in close proximity to the bit you are making you will soon start seeing the problems and can 'work around them'. I/ we have the benefit of CAD so I draw the bits I am going to make and make sure they will fit before I start metal bashing. best regards Deric
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18/01/2014 19:12:01 |
JasonB and Tricky, thanks both. Tricky, have you built one of these? Jason, can you point me towards (with a link maybe). I have registered with TT but I haven't recovered a message to activate my account. Weekend maybe? That picture is just what I want! And shows that the conrod will in fact have a set on it. The drill is pointing at the governor drive belt pulley the eccentric actually runs adjacent to the bearing a the bottom of the picture. Regards Deric
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18/01/2014 14:45:45 |
Is anyone building or has built the 3" Burrell to the Plastow design? My brother and I have been building this engine for the last year and up until now I/we have managed ok and made it up where there were no dimensions or wrong ones, of which there were a few. the plans and castings are circa 1983 when they were bought secondhand. The problem I have at the moment is fitting the water pump, the drawing dimensions are clearly wrong - or am I missing something? I have redrawn the pump, spectacle plates, eccentrics etc in ACAD and for the life of me I can't make it work. The pump clashes seriously with the second shaft tube. When I put it in different positions in CAD I get clashes with Conrod and spectacle plate and rear of piston. I have searched the Internet and studied no end of pictures but the illusive one of the pump from directly above is just not out there. I want to know the following:- Can anyone help with the position of the fixings for the pump or a picture of the pump from above. Does the conrod have an offset in plan and in elevation? Btw the pump is the original Plastow casting (picture below) there are more pictures in my albums. if anyone can help it will be much appreciated Best regards Deric
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Thread: Phosphor bronze balls |
01/01/2014 11:22:00 |
Thank you both very much I'll have a look and get them sorted today thanks Deric |
31/12/2013 19:18:53 |
Sorry if I've got the wrong place to post this, but not sure where else to post I am currently building a 3" Burrell and at present making the water pump. Can anyone help with information about where I can buy either Stainlees steel or phosphor bronze balls I need 1x3/8" and 1x1/2" balls. Everywhere I look I have to buy 10's at a time plus postage making it very expensive and a waste. any help much appreciated. regards Deric |
Thread: Warco GH Major mill |
22/12/2013 15:15:26 |
Michael, it's the main handles/levers, there are two on the ' hub' which have to be pushed to the right to engage the down feed. Any vibration when using power down feed will cause them to'jump out of gear' and the quill flies back up! i just had a look at the Chester lux and if yours is the same it has three handles on the main down feed. My machine is circa 2008 and it looks like on the warco machines that the down feed has been changed to the 3 handle version like yours. i would be interested to know how you engage fine down feed Deic |
22/12/2013 14:33:23 |
Seasons greetings Has anyone with a warco GH Mill got/had and solved the 'floppy' and inaccurate down feed levers? The handles on my mill rattle about so badly that there is no definite engagement or disengage and will quite often disconnect when down feed is in use, most annoying! I can't have the only one with this problem just hope someone can help best regards Deric
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