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Member postings for wotsit

Here is a list of all the postings wotsit has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Building a miniature universal lathe
16/11/2011 16:46:11
Hi, ViKARLL,
The German book discusses the pros and cons of different designs (for example, eight different headstock designs are discussed and drawn) - the picture on the front cover is a bit misleading, because he covers single and dual cylindrical rods, single and double square bars, bars set on edge (with an edge uppermost), flat plates and the virtues of prismatic ways - it is a very good source of info if you want to design and build a lathe for specific purposes.
 
I understand your problem with German, especially when applied to a technical subject like this. I suppose I'm lucky - it does open up access to whole 'second' range of alternatives. I have posted once or twice on the availability and cost of materials ordered from Germany, as opposed to UK.
 
This site might be some interest - see the second section on the list about lathes. Its all old stuff, but very interesting nonetheless, because much of the stuff was built from what was available.

 This guy has a very detailed site with pictures showing his lathe build
 

Edited By wotsit on 16/11/2011 16:53:04

Edited By wotsit on 16/11/2011 16:57:23

15/11/2011 20:10:30
Hi, ViKARLL, sorry this posting is late, but it may be an alternative - I have a copy of the following book:
 
Kleindrehmaschine im Eigenbau (Build your own lathe) by Juergen Eichardt.
published by Verlag fuer Technik und Handwerk.
ISBN number is 3-88180-752-7
Bestell-nummer (order number) is 310 2152 (price about 4 years ago was 16 Euro)
The publishers address is: Postfach 22 74, D-76492 Baden-Baden Germany.
 
The book contains full instructions and drawings for building a complete small lathe, with many variations and accessories from stock materials (no castings). It is written in German, but the drawings are comprehensible, and nowadays Google Translate does a reasonably good job of translating.
 
The company publishes books in a range called Maschinen fuer Modellbau Fachbuch, dealing with other aspects of small machines I have not built the lathe described in the book - I was interested in modifying the lathe I owned, and wanted to gather ideas, but the standard of the machine in the book seems quite impressive. I guess a letter to the above address might get you more recent info on price, availability etc. I don't know if you speak German, but if not, don't let this deter you - it is still understandable.
 
Just Googled the book - site is below - still available at 16 Euro.

Edited By wotsit on 15/11/2011 20:12:01

Edited By wotsit on 15/11/2011 20:16:23

Thread: Remote display sources for DRO Chinese calipers
15/11/2011 19:36:09
Ian,
Don't understand your problems with the YADRO site - it just opened OK fpr me.
 
The following site also has useful data on operation of Chinese scales. I have used modified digital calipers on my lathe and mill for several years now, and built an interface to an old obsolete laptop using this data. Bit of simple programming with QBasic, and I had my display. Incidentally, the site calls itself Shumatech support, but the scales I have are not Shumatech. They are, however, apparently identical to the ones on the site - certainly they are the same electronically. Two of the units I have appear to be slightly different to the others I have, in that the digital display is physically bigger and easier to read - but still electronically the same. Note the warning on the site about MItutoyo scales.
 
 
Also a word of warning about these scales. Soon after fitting mine, I began to experience erratic readings (on the mill) the reading would change with no warning, or would flash on and off. I eventually traced this to particles of metal which had worked their way under the sliding portion of the scale. I believe these scales operate on a capacitive principal, and the metal was obviously affecting this. I initially tried shielding the scale with a piece of clear plastic, but this is difficult to do completely effectively, since one part of the scale is fixed, and the other moving. Eventually I relocated the scales on the machine so they were less affected by stray swarf (dust size particles are enough to affect it), but then I couldn't read the scales easily, so I built the laptop interface. As far as I can see, the newer scales intended for machine mounting are exactly the same as the digital caliper type, so I believe the problem may still exist.
 
I also tried gluing pieces of felt under the edge of the moving part, similar to the wipers fitted to the ways of some machines, in an effort to prevent the problem - this works, but after a time, the felt inevitably wears, or comes unstuck, and I was back where I started.
 
Now I just clean them out periodically (pain!), and its a bigger pain when it happens in the middle of a job.
 
Also I understand that Little Machine Shop (use google) can supply suitable interface cables for these chinese scales - I just soldered a 4 core screened cable to mine.
 
Thread: Silver solder or copper rod?
12/11/2011 19:59:07
I cannot disagree with Dusty's basic rule, nor with Roberts stricture - but I would note that nowhere in the advertising literature for these 'copper' rods have I seen that it can be used on steel - it always says copper (no flux) or brass/phosphor bronze (with flux), so I have to question why it was used on steel, resulting in a brittle joint - there are appropriate materials to use for steel.
 
As Richard Parsons mentioned earlier on this thread, some of these materials did not exist in earlier years, so perhaps it is time to explore what is/is not possible with new or different materials - (Roberts experience probably comes under what is not possible) How did model makers 50 or 60 years ago arrive at the conclusion that silver solder was acceptable (and now seems to be the only material to use)? I have articles dating to the 1950's that take it for granted that soft solder will be used for caulking in boilers, and brass fittings used in steam circuits. I can guess that people will now tell me about all the catastrophic failures that resulted - my point is that it is not acceptable to take these risks, so how can we explore new materials and their limitations?
 
I would like to know if this CuP rod could be used in place of silver solder to build a copper boiler. To do this, it would be good to know exactly how it measures up against silver solder as regards physical strength, aging factors, etc. I have seen lots of discussion (for example) about 'de-zincification' in brass exposed to high temperature steam, and the consequent effects. I would like to know if there is a similar risk with this CuP material. As I noted earlier, I will try contacting the maker of the rods I have, but I was interested to see if anyone else had any useful input or ideas.
 
Looking at the current prices of silver solder, and the increasing prices of commercial boilers, it seems to me that this part of the hobby has already gone beyond the financial reach of many, Unfortunately not all of us are high income professional 'model-makers', and have to consider costs. There have been comments in ME about attracting beginners to the hobby - I think if I was just embarking on model engineering, I would think (more than) twice about the cost of buying or building a boiler - and it will NEVER become cheaper using current materials and techniques.
 
 




11/11/2011 16:56:22
I have some copper (coloured) rods made by the German company Rolot, numbered 607. The company advertises them for use in copper soldering, at a temperature of 710 degs C. I have used it to solder copper pipe with no problems, using no flux. The resultant joint appeared very good, but I have no real way of testing the integrity, etc. I have wondered whether it can be used for boiler work (silver solder is not available in Romania). So far I have not found much technical info (internet), so I will try contacting the company to see if they can provide more information.
 
There does seem to be conflicting info (and prices!) in the Internet for this stuff. Someone on Fleabay is selling it at 1 euro per stick (I bought mine at 20 Euros for 25 sticks). Another site calls it copper rod, then gives what seems to be the constituents (L-CuP6) - I'm no chemist, but maybe this implies phosphorus content?. Yet another site is selling it as kupfer-silberhaltige (copper - silver content), so guess that the Internet cannot be relied on this instance.
 
I would really like to know if this stuff can be used for boiler work, as it would solve the problem of obtaining a suitable solder.
Thread: spark eroder
10/11/2011 16:39:37
Not sure if I have the correct reference, but Mike Kapp (with a K, not N), published a simple EDM design here not long ago - I built a version which works well enough for me.
 
 
It is not a processor controlled system - uses a simple CMOS control circuit. The series of 4 articles gives all constructional details, and the thinking behind it, if you want to change things.
 
 
Thread: Crankshaft construction
03/11/2011 16:31:01
Hasn't this thread gone a bit astray - the initial questions were about building up or machining CRANKSHAFTS, with the difficulties involved, but the later comments refer to CAMSHAFTS - surely a different issue, since usually the throw, involving turning offset pins, is (usually) much less on a camshaft. I don't mean to belittle the efforts needed to make these items, bit it doesn't seem to address the original question(s) - I too have doubts about the longterm advisability of building up crankshafts using adhesives. My own efforts have always been silver soldered and pinned.
 
While on this theme, somewhere I have seen an article about making a crankshaft with offset webs by first making an oversize blank 'in the flat' - it was cut as though all webs were in line from a piece of thick plate, then heated and twisted at each web to get 120 degrees offset (three bearings in this case), then finish turned to size. I'll try and find it later. This is another alternative, but I would guess it could be very difficult to get exact 120 degree relationship between each crankpin, and to keep the whole thing straight, to say nothing about the possible stresses caused by heating and twisting the thing.
 
The CNC work is impressive - perfect for CNC - wish I could afford to do it
Thread: What a novel boat! An Early V12?
30/10/2011 08:15:35
From Wikipedia, if you believe it.
 
Quote
'The first successful trial run of his steamboat "Perseverance" was made on the Deleware RIver on August 22, 1787, in the presence of delegates from the Constitutional Convention. It was propelled by a bank of oars on either side of the boat....... in June 1790 launched a 60-foot (18 m) boat powered by a steam engine driving several stern mounted oars. These oars paddled in a manner similar to the motion of a swimming duck's feet. ........ Estimates of miles traveled that summer range from 1,300 to 3,000 miles, and Fitch claimed that the boat often went for 500 miles without mechanical problems.'
 
end quote (my italics)
29/10/2011 20:12:40
John Fitch was an American Inventor - try Google 'John Fitch Steamboat' - he had some 'original' ideas
Thread: How much ???
22/10/2011 14:55:33
Hi, RIchard,
 
I think you might be right about the butane - so far, I haven't found anywhere to buy propane (everyone in our village uses butane for cooking, so it is no problem. I have also a small oxy/gas (MAPP?) torch which I use for small jobs. So far, flux has not been a problem - I have a precious small bottle of Easyflow flux, and a large box of Borax bought in UK some time ago.
 
Re - the busses - first questions perhaps should be 'What Busses?' . There are international buses run by a company called Atlassib, which travel between Romania, Hungary, Austria and Germany - I am told they are very cheap and reasonably reliable, but I have never used them. We have some local buses, using vehicles which appear to range in age from ultramodern to (mostly) vintage. So far I have not had the courage to try one - it is not uncommon for them to be followed by vast clouds of diesel smoke, and they progress lopsidedly along (collapsed suspension on the older ones is not uncommon). Driving standards vary from crazy to lunatic. (I have been overtaken on a narrow winding country road by a bus when I was doing about 70kmh - I was too gobsmacked to accelerate away ). There are trains between major cities, not expensive, but a bit dirty and smelly.
 
Because if all this, I stick to driving my car, or use a taxi (not expensive).
 
International travel is not difficult - there are several lowcost airlines flying in and out of most European countries, and there are airports everywhere - we have international flights into Arad, and there is also an airport at Timisoara, about 50kms. The standard of the flights were generally good - when I first came here from Germany, I flew in and out several times to deal with house purchase, flying from Germany. I used CarpatAir and Blue AIr - Blue Air in particular was excellent.
 
Colin - sorry, I can't see a book happening - life is too short - come and see for yourself one day - Romania has some beautiful places, and absolutely scorching summers, and relatively low prices - incidentally, I retired here rather than back to Britain, because I thought Britain was the centre for all things crazy - ludicrous prices, corrupt politicians and big business, high murder rates (how many people have been knifed in London this year?), a countryside disappearing under concrete and cars, high housing costs and taxes, and so-called 'Health and Safety' gradually killing off all interesting pursuits. I have a large house and garden here, plus a large piece of land (7000 sq metres) on which we are having a second house built - each house cost less than 50,000 Euro. (Oh, and not to mention high postal charges )
 
 
Thread: McCulloch Strimmer problem
21/10/2011 08:07:01
I had a similar problem with a strimmer, and got all this advice through this forum - in the end it turned out that the flywheel/magnet assembly had turned slightly on the crankshaft, so the timing was incorrect (I was assured this was absolutely impossible, since the wheel was keyed to the shaft - wrong - not sign of any key at all, simply a tight (?) friction fit). I can't account for the weak spark, mine was the same, but KWIL si probably right- there was only a very weak spark anyway - anyway, it ran fine once the timing was reset.
Thread: How much ???
19/10/2011 19:06:04
Hi, Richard,
 
We don't have Beau-max in Arad, but we do have several large DIY warehouses of German origin (Obi, Praktiker). These are identical in layout and services to the German ones (I lived in Germany for 25 years), right down to the cutting equipment installed in the wood departments. Both stores will (sometimes) cut the wood to size for you (depends on which employee is on duty that day) - this is still a risky business - Romanian millimetres seem to be elastic compared to those on my ruler, so it is safer to specify the sizes as bigger than actually required. The clincher comes after they have cut it - you still have to pay for the whole sheet!. I found this out very shortly after I arrived here. Buying the whole sheet was not that expensive, but it was a b....r to get home, and I wasn't going to leave two thirds of the sheet in the store! - it explains why nearly everyone I know around here has a circular saw
 
Buying planed 'dry' timber is even more difficult - you have to get an itemised receipt of what you bought - not a till receipt - they usually have to be written out in longhand by one specific employee (which can be a bit like the old joke of being sent for a long wait). Apparently this is to protect you and the shop in the event the police stop you on the way home - then you can 'prove' you bought the timber legitimately instead of stealing it. Green (highly suitable for warping) timber does not need this receipt - go figure!. Needless to say, they don't sell much timber.
 
My experiences with UK postal charges have originated with the suppliers - I have had some really crazy quotes to send to Europe, compared with the same companies shipping within UK, so I get them to send it to my brother, who then trots down the local post office, and sends it simple parcel post - it has always so far worked out much cheaper - so my gripe is with the suppliers. When I have queried their prices, I have been told 'It is for post and PACKING, sir - we have to make sure it is packed OK and isn't damaged in transit', so some packing can cost a fortune, it appears (.....but not when sent from Germany, it seems). Perhaps someone in business can justify this?

It is also possible to buy various solders here made by a German company called Rolot (I think they also sell in UK). They have many different types, for plumbing and other purposes, and there are several which are marketed under similar descriptions as you mention. The packages usually state the intended use, and give things like melting temperatures, but I have to say I have never had much luck with them - there does not seem to be anything with the characteristics of Easyflow. I did find one which appeared to melt at the same temperature as Easyflow, covered with a very pale yellow flux. I finally did get it to melt using an oxy/gas flame, but no way will it run into a joint - it looks like the legendary chickensh*t produced by novice welders. I usually end up ordering from a model supply company in Germany. Thanks for your kind offer - OK at the moment, but later would be good. If there is anything you think I might get around here for you, please e-mail.
 
For sure people in the UK don't know when they have a good deal!
 
Thread: Silver or Stainless?
18/10/2011 20:11:55
Re Wolfies remark about making a scriber, and determining which bit of steel to use. I used a large masonry nail, brazed it into a hole in the end of a bit of steel rod (any rod, silver, stainless, even brass!), then ground the end sharp - its been in use for years, and the thin nail means I get a good view of the tip and line I am scribing - I don't care if the shank is magnetic, rustless or copper coloured.
Thread: How much ???
18/10/2011 20:03:53
After re-reading the thread - just another comment - as|Richard emphasizes, this is Hungary (or Romania in my case). It may well be EU, but corruption rules here - there is no way to get EU rules of any kind supported for the benefit of the common man. I draw your attention to the newspaper allegations at this time (18 October) about a Romanian judge on the EC Human Rights Court using his powers to prevent an investigation into his wifes corrupt activities, so the average consumer has few rights here. That said, not all East Europeans are corrupt - we have had some good experiences.
18/10/2011 19:55:53
I support Richard Parsons comments completely - I live in Romania, and have the same problems he describes. It is not even possible to buy a small piece of chipboard here (OK - I know its not engineering, but it is illustrative) - if I want some chipboard, I have to buy the whole sheet 250cms x 120cms - bulk-buying rules here!

Richard has also not mentioned postal cost issues - I have mentioned this in other threads. Postal costs quoted by suppliers in UK to this part of the world are scandalous. I have been quoted over 30 pounds for a 1kg package from the supplier - my brother eventually sent it - uninsured - for a fiver, but of course loss or damage is a risk. Yet I regularly order items from Germany, and the postal costs are extremely reasonable. One company I ordered from sent a 30 Euro order, with a postal cost of just over 4 Euros by courier to me in Romania, but the courier company wrongly charged me 50 Lei (about 10 Euros) for delivering it. I mentioned this to the company, and they promptly refunded the money to me at their expense - makes the UK look a bit sick.

The other side of the coin is that I know of a metal supplier here in Arad, where I can get many things I cannot source in any 'civilized' western European country (or not easily), and sometimes the prices are crazy - I can get sheets of copper 1x2 metres up to about 2mm thick, for next to nothing. Steel or S/S bar and rod in nay size or cross-section is no problem, large pieces of brass, and so on. Yet I cannot get copper rivets for anything, so I buy copper rod (in large bundles) and make my own rivets. Silver solder is a complete mystery to Romanians - I have been offered silver rod (also at a very reasonable price - less than the cost of silver solder in UK ) because thats what they thought I meant.
 
As Richard says, a materials list would be useful - you don't just start a project (at least here), without considerable forethought.
 
Thread: whats this tool called?
06/10/2011 11:02:07
I still have a pair of these pliers from service in the RAF many years ago - They used to come in different sizes for different sizes of rubber tube. The rubber tubes were known as Ellerman sleeves, and the pliers were used as Ian describes, after lubricating the sleeves with a glycerin based oil - I also still have some of the oil - I don't know if Ellerman is still in business, I'm afraid.
 
Just googled it - the name should be spelt Hellermann, and they do seem to be still in business - at least Google threw up packs of Hellermann sleeves for sale.

Edited By wotsit on 06/10/2011 11:03:58

Thread: Honey pump
27/09/2011 19:32:32
Hi, Clive,
 
Is it essential to use a rigid tube in the bucket? - it might be easier (?) to design it along the lines of a hand water pump. I am thinking of a pump unit at the top c clipped to the bucket, containing the plunger and valves, and a (replaceable) plastic tube into the bucket. It probably wouldn't give you a 'single-stroke' fill, but may be worth a thought as it may be possible to avoid a long(ish) seamless SS tube.
 
Almost everyone in our village in Romania keeps bees and sells the resulting honey - I am no expert, but they all seem to use a simple hand-driven centrifuge system to separate the honey from the frames/comb. This is simply then drained into a container, then (as far as I can see) is simply poured into glass jars for sale. I'll wander along and talk to my neighbour and see if I can get any more info when I get chance.
 
Thread: Darracq
15/09/2011 19:16:34
Hi, Anny,
 
E-mail the editor of this magazine, David Clark - MyHobbyStore is connected with ME, I believe, and David may be able to help you find out what happened to your order and the money.
 
Moderator - if you see these posts, maybe you can help Anny - she seems to be getting a raw deal somewhere. You may also draw there attention to the fact that a car plan (apparently) appears in the boating section in MyHobbyStore
 
 
14/09/2011 21:26:50
Hi, Anny,
I found another one, but it is a little odd
 

it is listed on the MyHobbyStores site under model boat plans/yachts. I'm no boat expert, and maybe there is a Darracq yacht. Unfortunately, there is no picture on the site, so it is unclear. Perhaps an email to MyHobbyStores can clear this up if you are interested - or can our moderator help with this - is it a car plan or a yacht plan?
14/09/2011 21:12:16
Hi, Anny,
 
Lovely model Roller - have you seen this - it may help with your Darracq. If you do it, keep us posted.
 
 
I had to teach myself some leatherwork to make my seats. I bought a bag of glove leather offcuts in our local market, and set to work with an old sewing machine. The folding hood on the SS100 took about four attempts before I got something close to what I wanted. It has no rear window (I couldn't find any thin flexible, transparent material, but maybe one day I will get around to it.

Edited By wotsit on 14/09/2011 21:13:02

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