Member postings for Stueeee

I'm not sure I'd count that as a weakness. Looking at the prices on eBay etc. for tiny lengths of material where you have to believe the seller's description of the spec. It's often possible to buy a full length from a stockholder for not much more money. But of course, there is the issue of the space to store it....

On the issue of spare parts, if they're not perishable and the price is right, then spares on the shelf are better than money in the bank earning 0.1 or such percent interest IMO.

Edited By Stueeee on 20/11/2020 11:21:08

Perhaps any others who don't think the current arrangements are pure distilled perfection don't want to get flamed in this thread by those who do....

I've also bought this exact colour, can't comment re. Myford suitability, but it's a very close match to the hammer finish paint used by Smart & Brown on this 1977 Model "M" lathe.

I've used both of these paints with good results, they're both available in any RAL or BS colour, and both seem to go on OK with a brush or a spraygun.

Arcforce

Tractol

Usual disclaimer, only a satisfied customer etc.

Edited By Stueeee on 04/09/2020 21:58:03

Decent wire feed is really important on a MIG welder. Some of the cheap units (my elder brother used to have one of these) didn't seem to have any voltage stabilisation on the wire feed, with the result that the arc wasn't stable. A problem he fixed by buying a decent 180A MIG.

Some quality machines have two pairs of rollers for the wire feed which allows a longer hose than the usual 3 metres. I have a 4 metre hose on my machine which is really convenient on larger jobs where otherwise it would be necessary to keep moving the welder nearer where you're actually welding.

A lot of combination MIG/TIG machines have a reasonably full set of MIG features, but only have lift or scratch start rather than HF (High Frequency) starting; Scratch start always seems to end up contaminating the tungsten in my experience. The gas, including any "pre flow" of gas including is controlled by a valve on the torch which will be permanently live when the machine is in TIG mode. I haven't seen a combination machine that does AC TIG, maybe not an issue if you can be sure that you will never need to weld Aluminium.

Edited By Stueeee on 04/09/2020 12:17:10

Missed your update while I was typing....

It may not be... Did you receive the text of this email earlier in the year?

This is part of BT's migration away from Yahoo servers that others have mentioned in this thread.

You should be able to get this fixed if you can get put through to the right BT people; the ordinary fault clerks just have a script. Your MY BT password ought to be the same as your email one.

I had a similar issue about six months ago, and managed to get it fixed over the phone once I spoke to the UK based email people. they fixed the issue there and then despite the fact that they had a typo in their record of my mother's maiden name ( which is usually used as part of the online account recovery)

Shift + F8 -recovery screen not appearing doesn't look good. If all else fails you should be able to see what data is readable off the disk with a USB connected SATA/IDE disk dock like this. HD Dock

Looks like it could be a Schaublin E type collet. There's several size series of these.

That's probably true, but at least you'd be able to get Loctite and Silver solder on prescription.

What an excellent piece of kit, and well done you for saving it. Did you use a radius turning attachment to make the dies?

Coincidently, I've just finished re-working a modern Jenny/bead rolling machine. I bought it in the US several years ago and bought it back to the UK. It started out like this:

Despite being made of 15mm or so steel plate it still exhibited some flexing in use. Also I was clearly wearing out my welcome for handle turning duty from Sue, my partner. It's not a tool I have used a lot, but I have a vintage car restoration project coming up which will require a lot of panel work.

It ended up like this, The stiffening comes from 50 x 50 x 3mm RHS which has made a huge difference. The motor is a 24V unit from a stairlift. The further reduction gearing is by 2 sets of 1950s BMC engine timing gears operating via a jackshaft.

I fitted a PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) speed controller too; the foot pedal switch hangs on the frame when it isn't in use.

Home made tapping blocks work well on flat material as said. if you've drilled the hole on a curved surface the blocks won't be any help. This setup uses a spring loaded centre that fits in the rear of the tap, or in this case the rear of the tap wrench.

Most of those tools will take CCMT 0602xx inserts (the xx is the corner radius) like these: lEAAOSw7P9bdDwP">https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CCMT-060204-P20-30-Indexable-Carbide-Inserts-For-Machining-Turning-Steel/183380732175?hash=item2ab257e90f:glEAAOSw7P9bdDwP

Never seen HSS versions.

Multigrade motor oil isn't really suitable as a cutting lubricant. It has all sorts of additives that mitigate against the cutting action that you're aiming for with a lathe.

As others have said, I wouldn't use the power feeds until you are really confident of the lathe's capabilities. Training lathes that used to be commonplace in apprentice workshop facilities never had any power feeds for that very reason.

I've just run a 20mm x 1.5 tap when I've come across this issue, never needed to re-drill.

Although there's a slight divergence between the 1.5mm "new" pitch and the 16 TPI original, it's never been noticeable in the short length of thread where a gland etc. would screw into.

Yes they do but with the standard 1mm pitch and the standard 60 degree ISO thread angle. The Lowenherz thread uses a 53 degree 8 minute thread angle along with the odd pitch. Details here.....

I remember cooking Frizets at scout camps back in the 60's. The troop's quartermaster must have bought a truckload of the stuff many years before as I don't remember ever seeing it in the shops at the time. I think that the extreme stickiness of the mixture -it was difficult to get it to drop off the spoon into the frying pan- was due to there being a fair amount of Gram flour (AKA Chickpea flour) in the recipe.

Been reading this thread with interest. Just wondered why the OP hasn't considered using brass tube instead of paper for the home made cases. When I was a member of a wildfowling club many years ago one of the guys had an 8 bore gun. "Off the peg" cartridges for these hadn't been available in this bore for some time, but the owner had bought some 8 bore brass cases which could be reloaded many times.

Can't see that there would be a legal issue with the OP making pinfire cases, they don't become ammunition until they're capped and loaded by the end user.

I was surprised about the barrel failure with a home made blank. I produced a load of DIY 12 bore blanks for some poacher alarm mines by cutting round the inside of the crimp, pouring out the shot, filling the "cup" in the plaswad with tissue and waterproofing the cartridge with melted candle wax. I tried a few of these 2 1/2" cartridges in a 3" chambered 12 bore wildfowling gun before loading the rest of the blanks into my home made poacher mines. the gun barrel looked to be as clean as it would have been firing a "live" round.

Edited By Stueeee on 10/03/2020 21:35:25

As a longtime Bridgeport user about to move up a size to an Ajax, can't make any useful comment about small milling machines. But in your situation i would definitely go for a machine with an R8 spindle. There is an enormous amount of tooling available in this format; and you can get R8 to MT 1,2 and 3 adapters which would allow you to use any of your lathe tooling in your mill.

BTW, that Beaver mill sounds like a bargain for someone, especially if it is the model with the 40 taper spindle.