Member postings for Stueeee

well done, moving all that stuff looks a hard day's work from all the stuff in your youtube vid. But well worth it for the price you got it for.

Certainly you should be able to remove the head without removing the motor and still have the head stay upright; here the slings are through the belt access slots. I needed to move my J1 head Bridgport accross the workshop and fit a riser block recently. needed to get the weight down to 1 tonne as that's all the workshop crane setup is good for.

This is it built back up, quite a bit more weight there with all the bits and bobs.

The other  thing you can do to reduce weight is remove the ram assembly complete - removing the four bolts which allow you to slew the head/ram assembly will allow you to lift it off with an engine crane or similar. You could still lift the rest of the machine if you put an angle iron  bar accross the base unit and pick up using two opposite 1/2" x 13 bolts through onto the cruciform that the head normally bolts to.

Edited By Stueeee on 21/09/2023 15:42:41

I've worked on two Derby Bentleys that have banjo fittings in the fuel lines. AFAIK they were built at the Rolls Royce factory.

Was the air going through OK? the passage of air cools the electrode as well as enabling the plasma arc.

They look very similar to the inserts I use in a facemill here.

The same SNUN 1905xx inserts should fit -the 'ordinary' ones have a similar corner radius to yours. These, not so much...

**LINK**

The last time I looked, Jurassic tools had some SNUN 1905xx inserts for sale on their website (usual disclaimer, just a customer etc.)

That's what I've always used, vee out whichever side you are going to braze, Manganese Bronze will run like Silver solder when the job is up to red heat. use standard brazing flux with the filler rod.

Pretty well all this type of hydraulic stuff uses ISO 32 oil. It's possible that the previous owner has put in something thicker like ISO 68 to provide a temporary fix/bodge. Have you looked at the price of new ram/jack units? when my 2 tonne crane started to fail a year ago, i was going to strip it and fit new seals until I saw the price of a new replacement ram/jack weblink Bought one of these (probably from one of the many different other  sellers) It's Still working fine at the moment.

Edited By Stueeee on 02/07/2023 20:47:21

Ah, K R Whiston with the advertising strapline "have you seen my cat" the cat of course being the paper catalogue in those pre-internet days. I used to buy all sorts of bits and bobs, still have some of his brass lever operated valves which have found their way into all sorts of projects over the years.

According to a note that came with a catalogue, he did sell the business as a going concern to his staff. Unfortunately they then put a quite high minimum order in place, a short time later the business ceased trading.

Edited By Stueeee on 20/06/2023 11:18:38

That's an interesting find. Never seen a Migatronic welder in anything other than dull green -my 1980's 180A set- or slightly brighter green, their newer stuff. If you are going to be welding Aluminium, are you going to hope that you don't get a birds nest with the 4 roller setup, or are you going to use a spool gun? I converted my welder for such.

Yes, the OP is a lucky man. The local 'recycling Centre' here doesn't actually allow any recycling/re-use, if items can't be discreetly intercepted on the journey from someone's car boot to the actual tip, then it's gone.

Solved! Took a very long look at the chuck after my last post. I have always wondered why there was a kind of collar on the front of the chuck. So, I put the chuck in my hydraulic press with the mandrel pressing against the rear centre portion of the chuck. Mine is a 30 ton press, but I hadn't got it pumped right up before the tapered piece came out with a huge bang.

Here's the chuck the other way up, I've removed the sheared off key/register the remnant is sitting on top of the chuck in the second photo.

When I get a bit of free time, I'll turn a new one from a piece of EN8; the remnant is 1/4" long, I'll make the new one 3/8" long and hopefully I won't need to repeat the repair in the future.

Edit, inserted missing second photo

Edited By Stueeee on 09/05/2023 20:56:07

Had a quick look on ebay, Metric Trugrip collets 30 something quid each! what happens if you need hexagonal or square collets -these are easily available in 5C and while they're more expensive than round hole ones, I've never come close to paying 30 quid each for them.

Still struggling with the key/register issue, have tried knocking out the sleeve with a brass drift again. I will try using my hydraulic press later on, but it's awkward to set the press mandrel to get a straight push.

As per the title, I've had an early Trugrip chock for ages, but never really used it because it was set up for the rather strange left hand thread collets which seem to be made of Unobtanium. Having fitted a 5C (conversion) plate in the rear of the chuck, I was hoping to be able to use the chuck on my DSG lathe with the large connection of 5C collets I have that fit in the spindle of another lathe of mine. The issue I now have is that the collet register has sheared off at some time in the past making it very difficult to load a collet securely.

The sheared key is visible in the photo above.

The photo below shows the partially stripped chuck from the front. It looks pretty clear to me that the ring with the sheared key needs to come out the replace the key/register, but it isn't clear how to remove it. Some exploratory blows with a hammer and brass drift didn't cause any movement trying to tap it out the back.

If anyone on here has some experience of stripping one of these chucks, I'd really welcome some suggestions.

It's not just valuable stuff that gets stolen at autojumbles. I used to share a stall with my brothers at the Spring and September events.

When I had boxes of taps and dies for sale (duplicates of a very large lot I had bought previously) I reckon about 50% of these were taken without payment. These weren't valuable items; I had already binned any that were damaged and IIRC, was charging £1 each for HSS taps and 50P for the carbon ones.

This, and other thefts from our stall left a really bad taste for me, and is one of the reasons I now attend these events as a buyer and not a seller.

Yes, trawling through eBay revealed that some of the Chinese suppliers used the same 9 pin physical interface on their scales, but with only 5 of the pins used.

A while ago I bought a new to me lathe which was/is fitted with a (CHFOIC badged) DRO. My other machines have Anilam or Heidenhain DROs which have far fewer bells and whistles but have (touch wood) always been reliable.

My issue with the new DRO is that it is failing its Power On Self Test. It does the exact same thing when the scales are disconnected which leads me to believe that the head unit is faulty.

Information on the 'net seems to be really thin on this subject, but it seems that the interface to the X and Z scales is something called JCXE it uses a 9 pin connector.

I can't seem to find any sellers who will sell me a CHFOIC head unit on it's (i.e. not part of a kit with scales) so, what I really need is a head unit which is compatible with the scales I already have. Any suggestions or guidance would be most welcome -thanks for reading this.

For 'bar turned' nuts the issue is getting hold of appropriate high tensile hexagon steel bar. here's the relevant page from a stockholder's catalogue. As you can see, the usual 0.445" 0.525" 0.600" BSW/BSF sizes are only available in a leaded free cutting material. I do a lot of work with BSF/BSW era cars and when I have needed proper HT nuts (thankfully very small runs) I have milled the hexagon stock from round using an indexer on my Bridgeport. Stainless hexagon bar is available in BSF/BSW sizes, but isn't suitable for use with anything structural.

I've silver soldered the unleaded version of EN1A quite a number of times. I use HT5 (Tenacity) flux for this even when there isn't a need for extended heating.

When I modified a bead rolling machine from hand operation (where you need 3 hands) to powered. I used a 24V stairlift motor of similar power to yours. The motor runs through a similar PWM controller to yours and uses a 20A 24V power unit bought on ebay.

You can get an idea of its size by the fact that the power supply is bolted to a piece of 50 x 50 RHS steel

I used to rebuild lots of car differential units. This work calls for a fair bit of shimming to achieve the correct bearing preloads, gear mesh & engagement depth. Unfortunately the shims only seem to come in bulk packs of the same size from the differential manufacturers. I'd have been quite some way into 3 figures of £££s by the time I had bought a full set of each size (and would have ended up with several lifetime's supply of shims). My solution was (and is) to use a pair of chassis punches to punch the inside and outside in steel shimstock.

These and other punches were bought off ebay for not much money; but I have made smaller size punch & die sets at home from silver steel, turned all the parts and used a flycutter to put the cutting radius on the punch before hardening and tempering.