Member postings for ANDY CAWLEY

Gentlemen I'm not the sledge hammer wielding gorilla my original posting might have suggested, honest!.

I had read the thread that Simon Williams had suggested which is why I asked for advice. Having read what you all suggested I went out to the shed and:-

I had all the bits to do the job, I used 10mm threaded rod 'cos that's what I had. I even got the chance to use a fancy 17mm spanner that I bought in a panic in France a couple of years ago and never actually used. Wound away on the ratchet and bingo, easy peasy :-

I shall send it off to the Ebay chap from Cardiff for him to make me a new one. I'm not confident enough to have a go my self.

As Basyle suggested now is the time to make a back lash wear adjuster. I did one before on my Centec mill but I'm not qiute sure how to do it on a cylindrical nut, I thought I could some how utilise a bit of the old nut. Any suggestions?

The machine is serial number M2481 which believe makes it 1965 so the is some excuse for a worn nut!!

Thanks to you all for your prompt advice, it is greatly appreciated.

Keep smiling and keep safe.

i have an enormous amount of backlash in my table X lead-screw. I need to remove the bronze nut from the main casting. I have removed the grub screw which was pretty tight and I am now wondering how tight the nut itself is in the casting. My thought is to put the lead screw back into the nut and then whack it on the end with a large copper hammer. Before I go ahead has anybody got advice based on experience with this type of milling machine?”

Adrian, thanks very much for the advice. I think I might even be able to locate the capacitor that must have been with it when I bought it🥴

I bought this motor some time ago with the idea of powering a spit roaster. My problem is that there are four wires and I don’t have a clue how to wire the motor up also should there be a capacitor involved somewhere.

Is there anybody out there who can advise?

Thank you very much. I'll be able to go this year, hooray.

I only live 10 miles down the road and have managed to miss it due to being on holiday since it started in Doncaster.

Can anybody tell me the date for the 2020 Doncaster show?

Life would be easier if you were to use annealed or soft stainless wire.

Edited By ANDY CAWLEY on 09/09/2019 00:32:43

Looks like a Reliant Sabre to me.

Were you absolute fastidious about making sure the tool was plunging into the work piece at bang on 90 degrees. If you got it only very slightly out it starts to bind and that’s that‼️ Don’t ask me how I know🙄.

Edited By ANDY CAWLEY on 07/07/2019 11:00:01

+1 for McWhorter

Edited By ANDY CAWLEY on 04/07/2019 15:23:04

Making bits for my vintage motor cars, mainly Frazer Nash or GN .

Trepanning is a operation that I carry out occasionally.

I do this to a 3/4" pitch plate wheel which is then bolted to a carrier, the finished article is shown above.

I carry out the operation on a fairly heavy duty CVA lathe using the tool shown below.

(This picture is upside down.)

I cant remember how wide the cutting edge is but 4 mm would be about right, every time I do the job I consider reducing the width but never quite get round to it. I wouldn't dream of putting the tool to the job without a full flood of coolant.

Somehow or other this picture has got upside down!

I cut at fairly slow speed to start with speeding up as I get more confident. I hone the cutting edge and maintain it sharp.

The whole operation is conducted with tightly clenched cheeks and I'm glad when its finished. The material from which the platewheels are made is, I believe, En8.

Edited By ANDY CAWLEY on 03/07/2019 19:10:57

a person from France.

Fusion advice, look for Paul McWhorter, i think I’ve spelt it right, on utube. He emphasise and explains well the need to understand sketching. It is fundamental to making it work. He spends a few tutorials on this which lifted the scales from my eyes. Stick with this as he can be a bit repetitive.

AJust in case it’s not clear the sketching bit is the 2D drawing which is then extruded to get the 3D result.

If you’ve ever fallen foul of “constraints” , I have, he explains how to deal with it in simple terms.

Try it.

Edited By ANDY CAWLEY on 03/06/2019 19:19:05

Edited By ANDY CAWLEY on 03/06/2019 19:20:24

Edited By JasonB on 04/06/2019 16:12:07

Fusion advice, look for Paul McWhorter, i think I’ve spelt it right, on utube. He emphasise and explains well the need to understand sketching. It is fundamental to making it work. He spends a few tutorials on this which lifted the scales from my eyes stick with his as he can be a bit repetitive.

Justin add it’s not clear the sketching bit is the 2D drawing which is then extruded to get the 3D result.

If you’ve ever fallen foul of “constraints” , I have, he explains how to deal with it in simple terms.

Try it.

Edited By JasonB on 04/06/2019 16:11:47

Aren't we all?

Just had a thought whilst reading this post. Why not weld a suitable size disc to a shaft and true it off in the lathe. Transfer the assembly to the mill and put the shaft in the chuck. Raise the table to the disc and slacken the head arrangement and allow the table and the disc to align. Bingo one trammed in head.

Its probably an old idea or there's something I haven't thought of, happy new year anyway.

Hi Vernon, I have just sent you a PM. I know your post is nearly 4 years old but you might still be interested.

At last I made the spacer!

I held the stock in a 4 jaw chuck and series drilled through the centre ending up with a 3/4" blacksmith drill. I then opened out to 20mm with a boring bar,

I was amazed with quality of finish with such a long extension of the boring bar. The above photo shows this. It also shows the spindle for which the spacer is being made. I measured the angle of the taper as 5 degrees and set the compound over at this angle. Having reduced the overhang of the boring bar I then bored the 30mm short parallel.

To bore the taper I extended the boring bar and set it in line with the spindle axis. With the compound slide wound well back I then advanced the cross slide to the bed stop, wound the boring bar in on the compound until it nearly touched the shoulder of the 30 mm bore. Having measured the length of the taper I then marked the compound slide with the length as below.

I then bored the taper winding the compound slide in by hand. Running at 500 rpm it took 0.5 mm cuts quite happily producing blued steel chips and giving a good finish.

To turn the external taper I made a plug for the 20mm bore that the was supported with a revolving tailstock centre.Again turning at 500 rpm with a 0.5 mm cut.

This what the finished assembly looks like, well, it will be improved with a bit of Scotchbrite.

In the end it was a lot easier than I anticipated thanks to everyone's advice..

Edited By ANDY CAWLEY on 16/12/2018 13:47:02