Member postings for JohnF

Yes Graham a rare piece indeed and a delight to see.

Personally I reckon the CCH is genuine, I've seen.a lot over the last 40 years and had quite a lot of guns re-hardened. The pattern is unpredictable and depends on many factors. One of the best outfits still operating is in Birmingham and their work is superb.

Hacksaw, rifling is done in several ways, cut rifling, as its name suggests is cut by pulling a cutter through the tube, a bit more to than just that but it would require a long explanation. Then there is button rifling, done by pulling a carbide button through the tube. Lastly there is hammer forging, a process done cold on a blank the barrel comes out finished and chambered for the desired calibre. A very impressive process, incidentally some makers use this for shotgun barrels as well.

Hi Brian, I bought ne of the latest models from Myford at Beston just before they closed, it is much better then the earlier ones but not perfect. It does hold the oil in the reservoir pretty well whereas the others leaked profusely. As for sealing with the nipples, well better but by no means perfect, there are a few posts on here with solutions to this but myself I just use the old dodge of putting a thin cotton cloth over the nipple and this prevents 95% of the leak.

Not tried any of the clones on offer so will be interesting to see what the team think

Regards John

regards JohnHi Joe, What I have is from the main consumer unit in the house is a sub main to both the garage and my workshop, two sub mains, then each location has a consumer unit with RCCB's etc.

Regarding welders my mig woks just fine off a standar socket but I was having a problem with my Tig.which is a small industrial unit, a bit old but quite sofisticated, this tripped the power on startup so consulted a pal who is a competent spark and he fixed it by fitting a different rating or type of RCCB these are rated by different letters which will solve the problem with welders start up current draw. You need to mention this to your spark and he will be able to advise. If you need to know what I have fitted PM me and I'll send you or post the details.

Regards John

Ian, another solution is to "shrink" a sleeve in place, make the sleeve an interference fit on the shaft, I would suggest a wall thickness of about .050" to .060" as a minimum providing of course this does not leave the original shaft too small. After preparing the shaft allow approx 0.002" per inch of dia of the shaft for the interference, heat the sleeve to deep blue and keep the shaft reasonably cool -- NO water here !!! this will cool the sleeve to fast, drop the sleeve onto the shaft and have soft hammer handy just incase you need it. there is of course a limit to the length you can do due to the rate of cooling.

I have repaired pots of shafts and altered flat step pulleys to V belt with this method.

John

Edited By JohnF on 11/10/2014 18:49:48

Edited By JohnF on 11/10/2014 18:52:30

This has to be state of the art, quite a long video but a must watch hope you enjoy it.

**LINK**

Hi Frank, you can use a wiggled on a lathe, indeed there is one job I do where it would be impossible without a wiggler. Below is a link to a page with some info, I don't have a photo handy of the particular piece I make but if you PM me I'll see what I can do.

http://www.toolsandmods.com/lathe/mini-lathe-center-finder

John

 http://www.toolsandmods.com/lathe/mini-lathe-center-finder

Edited By JohnF on 04/10/2014 17:48:03

Well chaps here's my small anecdote from when calculators first arrived, I was working on production and tool room jig boring at the time, Newall 1520 & 2436 machines, all calculations, and there were many, had to be done with 7 fig logs and we used a mechanical pin wheel calculator do achieve this.

The firm bought us a Texas Instruments scientific calculator and at first we would do the calculation and the "magic box" produced the answer, well being untrusting of this new fangled gadget we proceeded to " check" the result on the old mechanical machine. It was of course correct but ! ! Just in case ! A hole in the wrong place and a lot of money went down the drain. The pin wheel machine was "rescued" by my one time apprentice some years later when it was on its way to the skip.

Cheers John

Hi Nanande,

Your first post so welcome to the forum

I do not work in metric if possible but a general rule of thumb in imperial is that the drilled hole is 1/64" under the reamer size I.e. 0.0156" undersized so for your 16mm reamer it would need to be 0.4mm undersize therefore 15.6mm diameter. Not sure what metric drill sizes are as standard in the larger sizes but up to 10mm they asend in .01mm increments.

Hope this helps, regards John

John B , Yes you can get square silver steel most engineering supply houses should have it. I got some from Thomas Graham locally ( Lancaster) a few months ago .

Precision ----- fits where it touches and touches everywhere !

Two points laminating might alter the colours, not sure but you would need to be careful

Second point and most important THE COLOURS MUST BE OBSERVED IN DAYLIGHT, failure to do this will give a false reading, Subdued but good daylight is the best, not strong sunlight the colours are too difficult to see.

All artificial light has differing colour temperatures and will alter the colour on your work----don't let anyone try to convince you otherwise I have been tempering small steel parts for many years and to my cost have found this to be very true.

Closure chart is very good though.

John

Why not make one from silver steel, very easy and cheap. Have made quite a few over the years mainly for gun sight dovetails . John

Stewart, Many years ago I used to rebuild and sell on old lathes, 1960's, now I am not just sure how the head bearings on these machines are adjusted ora if they are tapered or a straight journal? However one thing I learned was that with straight journals you can have the too tight! I.e. No room for the oil and this causes chatter, I found that by allowing a little clearance for the oil, we are talking a minimal amount here the machine would cut just fine, tighten up and it nearly jumped of the bench with chatter.

Try it and see how you get on, hope this helps. John

Sam have a look at this link, I have one of these and it has worked for me for over 30 years, it's accurate and grips well, at least as well as I would expect. Arc Euro and RDG tooling also offer similar chucks and quite a few come with sets of collets. No connection with the either firm but I have always been happy with anything I have purchased from them.. John

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Emco-Collet-holder-2MT-for-M10-drawbar-/281098787803?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4172cb1bdb

Sam, Ian is correct it is definite no to using a drill chuck for milling, cough up and purchase a proper milling chuck using collets, ER collets would be.a good all round choice, not perfect but will do most things except chew of large cuts with fairly large cutters, say 5/8" plus. Also beware of deep side cuts even if they are shallow, the reason is that the cutting action can pull the cutter down in the collet, that's why you get screw shank cutteres or other means of preventing this.

Milling chucks come with either an integral taper of your choice or requirements or an interchangeable taper similar to your drill chucks BUT the taper is fixed to the body with a location taper and a thread, not just the taper as is the case with drill chucks.

Most of the a ones you will find at attractive prices are the former with the taper being part ofe the main body of the chuck, less expensive to make.

Hope this helps a bit Regards John

Robin, sounds like it's a Victorian house? Well most of these cellars are damp, and more than you might think. Personally I would tank the cellar, there are quite a few companies do this at reasonable cost but it depends on where you live and how long you intend to be there to justify the cost, my guess it's a long term house?

The stone flags are quite valuable so you could lift these and sel them to offset some of the cost. The floor would be best concreted with a membrane and if you did not want to go to the cost of tanking the place I would then line the walls with studding with a membrane behind it and board the inside with material of your choice, plasterboard, plywood, etc.

hope this helps and good luck. John

ps see your messages

Edited By JohnF on 02/09/2014 08:22:03

Robert, I am not familiar with this particular firearm or quite what you are doing and whether it will weaken a load bearing part of the bolt a photo might help BUT PLEASE EXERCISE CAUTION this is a major load bearing part of the gun and it must not be weakened in any way. Indeed any work of this type in the UK the gun would have to be re proofed at one of our national proof houses. Work on any load bearing part of a firearm deems the gun to be out of proof if that work does or may potentially weaken the gun. A bit more detaild than that but that is the Essenes of the rules of proof this side of the pond.

Think about the possible consequence if the bolt failed in service due to the work you have done ! Does not bear thinking about.

Back to your original question, yes the bolt will have been heat treated as will the action, most rifles are quite tough but again most can be machined one way or another . Graham's suggestion of a file test is probably the best way to determine if it's likely that you can do the work with your kit.

Regards John

Geoff, which clutch do you mean? Presumably not the the main spindle clutch which is of course standard on the S7

John

Shaun, have you considered laying builders plywood sheets on the gravel then use rollers, you would need two sheets so you can move one forward as you go. Not sure of the weight of your machine but we used this method to move a Smart & Brown lathe weight 1 ton, worked just fine using scaffold tube as rollers. Good luck

John

Brake cleaner is a good degreaser and easy to obtain at any motor factors, Trevor is quite correct about carbon tet but I have to smile in the 1960's we used to mix it with coconut grease and use as a cutting fluid when machining low carbon steels----still here to tell the tale ! Worked extremely well and gave a super finish.

Edited By JohnF on 20/08/2014 20:46:45