Member postings for JohnF

Richard, have look here, Also search this forum for FB2 -- lots of info available

https://groups.io/g/EmcoSuper11lathes/filessearch?p=name%2C%2C%2C20%2C1%2C0%2C0&q=FB2+Manual

FB2 manual

Larry sounds like you have exhausted all the options, however drilling out should work OK but you will have to remove the rotor block and mount in a vice on your mill or drill. Then you can be sure of drilling on centre and true to to the original hole.

Just my thoughts John

Ha! Ha! never a problem for me Dave -- I'm T-total !

John

Never trust computers ! Useful but fallible ! A pencil and paper is safer.

I see you are all fixed up but for interest I have an adjustable one, available in different sizes.

Try using Methylated Spirit as a lubricant, you need to add frequently with a brush, we used to get L34 aluminium, an aircraft grade material, very soft and gummy, horrible stuff to machine but meths worked well as a lube.

What Elf 'n' safety would say now ????

John

Interesting Michael, the first item the indexing 4-way tool box is from memory the same as the one originally fitted to Smart & Brown Model A & 1024 toolroom lathes in the 1960's

The second I used this fixture around 1967/68 with Dickson tooling on a 1024 lathe when evaluating an early DRO system made by Ferranti the fixture being used to preset tools to a zero point. The system did not work particularly well and at that time the cost was far too high ! A two axis readout was more than the cost of a new S & B 1024 at the time. One must also keep in mind disposable tipped tooling was still in its infancy then - times have changed !

John

Hi, The OP Nick did not say whether his machine has a screw cutting gearbox or not ? Looking at the charts he has posted probably not so this link to a previous post relating to the Myford-metric-threading may not be be appropriate to the OP ? Nevertheless it is an interesting post on the subject.

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=125630

Regarding the video showing the method of using a thread dial indicator, I was taught this back in the early 1960's by my mentor during my apprenticeship and have passed it on many times - so many I "wrote it up" some years back and later added a link to the excellent video by OX Tools.

The method can of course be used on any machine fitted with a thread dial indicator and works from imperial to metric or vice versa.

John

Bob Unitt 1

John F - are you suggesting that current Myford toolholders should fit my 1990's toolpost ?

No not at all ! They may do but no g'tee, I purchased a Piddington extended tool holder from them 18 months ago and that was OK with my Original Myford tool post. Cannot vouch for the standard tool holders.

At the same time I ordered a standard parting tool holder from RDG [Myford were out of stock] ---- it did not fit, not even close ! so returned for credit --- strange really when they are in the same stable ?

John

The original Dickson tool posts were made by Dickson Engineering in Farnham [Surrey] this was in the early 1960's they were eventually taken over or absorbed into the 600 Group, now Dickson tool posts and holders are available from Colchester Lathes, part of the 600 Group but it seems they no longer supply the SO size for small lathes aka Myford size. only from S1 size upwards.

My understanding was that the original Myford tooling was made by Dickson Engineering i.e. those with a W or was it an M ?? but would stand to be corrected. They were and are totally interchangeable with Dickson brand tool post blocks and vice versa -- I have both plus some of those made by A & R who made for Myford Nottingham. I also have some other brands all of which had to be "fettled" to ensure a correct fit.

I also have some purchased from Myford [Nottingham] at the ME show many years ago they were clearly made elsewhere and probably not in the UK? they do fit correctly but they are thicker on the base so take only 3/8" tools.

It is indeed a pity the current makers abroad don't ensure the dimensions & tolerances ensure interchangeability with original tooling !

John

Apologies for not posting earlier, I have been watching the thread but otherwise occupied.

However many of the early posts echo my feelings and the reasons I personally do not like darkened windows. It was suggest buy one poster that eyesight may be a problem, well not for me even at 78, there was a time when I could shoot a whisker of a nat at 100 yards — now not the whisker but still the nat ! I also never wear sunglasses or use reactive lenses for the same reason as tinted windows — it makes a good day into a bad day !

As for security I think this is a fallacy and offers little advantage, maybe I’m ultra security conscious having been an RFD for over 40 years, I never leave anything of value on view in the vehicle cab, front or back.

Tinted windows were originally “allowed” or at least installed front and back but [see Nicholas’s post] soon restricted to the rear - why? Because they impeded vision for the driver and continue to do so in the rear view as say Dave Halford 08/12/22 confirms in relation to reversing and when outside light is poor.

As often happens the thread drifts off to more general driving, stopping distances etc etc all interesting, particularly the reference to the 2 second rule and distance travelled in m/s [although I’m a ft/sec fan ]

Steve Neighbour posted 13/12/22

From the inside it is almost indistinguishable from clear glass and does not hinder rear mirror vision, also rear passengers view is not compromised in any way.

I have to disagree with this in every way it is vastly different to clear glass, it is like wearing permanent sunglasses and it does without doubt hinder rear view vision. Having been a passenger in the rear of several vehicles with tinted windows it most defiantly compromises your outward vision and spoils the enjoyment of a nice day.

In the past I/we have purchased quite few new cars, Ford, Vauxhall, BMW, Landrover, Jaguar, none with privacy glass and indeed if I was buying new now I would insist on not having it. However buying a used car one has to compromise but if at all possible i would look for a vehicle without privacy glass !

Might start another thread about lights now !!!!!!

Regards all John

Another item to consider is a pressure washer ! I know of two that were ruined by frost -- not mine !

John

There seems to be an obsession with privacy glass in vehicle rear windows -- why ? It was an extra but now seems to be standard, indeed its appears to be almost impossible to purchase a new car without it ! - not looking at new but a replacement used vehicle and I dislike privacy glass.

To me it make a good day look like a bad day [weather wise] and bad day as if Armageddon is about descend upon us ! I also find IMO it obstructs rear view vision.

It would be interesting on others thoughts?

Rick have a look here. **LINK**

There may be something of interest?

John

My twopennorth is the same as Baz for the same reasons, I have used Wohlhaupter & Kaiser all my life, never heard of Kuroda but they do have an agent in the U.K. but no mention of boring heads on their web site product list !

Plenty of used Wohlhaupter available but if the Kuroda is VERY attractive price wise I would contact the makers/agents and check out the spares situation before going further.

John

Edited By JohnF on 03/12/2022 13:59:43 spelling 

Edited By JohnF on 03/12/2022 14:00:27

I once owned and used a very similar machine, some 60 years age, still an apprentice and bought from a the local scrap dealer. Had it running in my dads garage from a lineshaft. Eventually gave to a pals pal ! NDY is spot on with the date IMO

Defiantly not a wood lathe, it has a tumbler reverse for the change wheels, half nuts on the carriage, left hand side lever and the central lever with two holes is most probably power feed to the lead screw or cross slide. From memory mine was a 10 TPI lead screw. Make — no idea but it did have a plate on it with reference to WW1 and may have been American origin ? i’ll Ask my pal if it’s still around

John

Brad, Don't know where you are in the world but maybe this link is of use ?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=Black+N+Red+Book+Casebound+90gsm+Graph+Ruled&_encoding=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&linkCode=ur2&linkId=Q7EHUMJKIFWIQYW7&tag=csp-detail-image-21

John.

PS its a fact that this type of book is disappearing ! I used a Collins minute book for over 40 years as a repair register, they had about 300 pages and pretty much indestructible -- they took a lot of wear & tear ! They were costly at £80 -£100 but worth the money. We managed to get some smaller [less pages] versions recently but the covers are not as substantial.

David, Have a look at this link to overhauling these chucks on Machinists Blog

John

Edited By JohnF on 17/11/2022 23:25:45

Rowan, I notice in a much earlier post relating to parting tools you mention that the spindle centre is only 8mm above the top of the compound slide ?

" On my lathe (a Portass PD5) the surface of the compound slide that tools are clamped to is about 8mm below the centre height. This seems to mean that I can't use a tool thicker than 8mm (or more precisely, whose cutting edge is more than 8mm above its base). So how can I use a tool like this: "

This dimension seems very small and looking at lathes.co.uk it appears that the difference is considerably greater than 8mm ?

Looking on Arc's site the smallest tool post needs a minimum of H + h = 20mm allowing for say a 10mm tool bit you need 17.5mm minimum.

If the above 8mm is correct then there are alternatives you could consider, the easiest being the Gibraltar style tool post where the compound slide is removed and a solid block of appropriate thickness fitted and the QC tool post mounted on this.

Hope this helps

John

Femi do indeed work well as a vertical bandsaw and a dedicated table is available, the table is also quite expensive but it is possible to make your own, they are not complicated and I did do a drawing for another forum member. there are some photo's in my albums under Femi.

Although perfectly adequate with the table attachment they are probably not as good as a dedicated vertical machine, however I use mine in both modes and would not swap it !

John

Keith, don't be put off cutting internal threads, you can start inside the nut and screw away form the chuck so no chance of a crash. I know if its a screw fitting chuck it could unscrew but it is IMO extremely unlikely with such small dia & fine pitch thread -- I have cut many many threads this way on my Myford without any trouble. Plus its possible the material will be brass ?? so even less cutting force.

Use a bed stop and make a small undercut at the start point, assuming your lathe is imperial for ease I would consider using 32 tpi so you can use the chasing dial. Even if you felt the need to cut metric pics on an imperial lathe you can still use the change dial but not in the conventional manner. If you need details for this procedure please message me.

The pitch difference is only 0/00025" per turn so 0.0025" over 10 threads so a tiny movement of the top slide on the last cut will accommodate this. Depending on the accuracy/sizing of the original; parts you may not even need this -- try one and see how it fits.

John