Member postings for JohnF

Karl, There is a 254 on eBay at the meant with a photo of the attachment, probably worth adding a copy of the pic to you PC for reference.

Have a look at the Hemminway kit for a Myford TT attachment, it is aimed at the 7 series machines but I'm sure it could be modified to fit a 254 without much trouble - the system is very similar.

Some links

**LINK**

**LINK**

Where are you situated ??

Karl see you messages !

Edited By JohnF on 24/03/2019 18:10:06

I believe you can get pre-insulated profile metal cladding now -- check it out locally

John

RMA & John P have pretty much said everything -- I'm not a builder but have done fair bit of DIY so my thoughts are as per sketch below added to the comments above relating to wood [sleepers] for what you are doing these are definite no! Use bricks or blocks, blocks are quicker but bricks are stronger -- your choice ?

One thing in particular is a layer of sand over the compacted hardcore is a must to protect the DP membrane from the hardcore

One error on the sketch --- let the metal cladding go BELOW the DPC in the brickwork by say 2" [50mm] or a brick !

Good luck John

Hi CCB I looked at the OP late last night and still cannot picture exactly what you are trying to do? Is it a frame building with steel cladding, a brick wall with cladding above? Still several possibilities!

maybe a simple hand drawn cross section sketch showing the base and the bottom part of the construction would make it clear and thus you will get correct advice

John

ps where are you?

Welcome Henry, you seem pretty well kitted out but then one can never have too much kit !

The Midlands show is the closest to you but the Doncaster show is on very soon

John

I have done a few jobs of this kind over the last few years and used a tile drill -- these are a tungsten carbide spade inserted into a round shank, they worked well and have a sharp point so start easily on tiles.

John

Hi I'm not an electrician and have only basic knowledge on these matters, however it sounds like the motor is running on the starter windings which suggests the centrifugal switch inside the motor is not working as it should. When you switch off the motor listen for a click as it slows down -- no click I guess means the switch has not triggered at startup.

The Super 7 was generally fitted with a 1/2HP motor, if it comes to the crunch and you need to replace it i would strongly suggest going to 3 phase from one of the suppliers herein -- I got mine from Transwave

Cheers John

Grizzly, It looks vaguely like an old Harrison that was used as an odd job lathe by all and sundry in the factory I worked in in the early 1960's went for scrap eventually. I'm surprised there is no name on it or at least a name plate.

Might help if you say your location - which side of the pond ? looks like UK ?

Whats on the plate on the headstock? Are there any numbers on the machine, where did it come from ?

I have just renewed our house insurance this month and changed to a different company due to rising cost of the previous outfit, ended up with the Halifax and made it very clear regarding workshop items and sporting firearms and assured all are covered. Workshop is within the house building but with a separate entrance all alarmed with a fully monitored system plus physical deterrents as well. Usual disclaimers but found them very efficient and helpful.

John

Alan, plus 1 for Clive's post but what I do is mark all my stock so I know what's what, I don't use any commercial sequence just one that's developed for several reasons, one being where I served my apprenticeship all gauge plate had a blue stripe painted on it so I continued this and although Stubbs SS was stamped I used the same paint on the bar ends. Then acquiring several car touch up paints -- the ones with a small brush inside --- I used whatever was available for common steels I use. You only need around six colours so maybe small Humbrol tins would do ?

I do have a small problem to address -- I can never repaint the workshop door -- this has all the colour charts make on it !!!!

Cheers John

The message I sent to my family and friends in NZ yesterday morning : -

"Wow what a disaster in Christchurch could hardly believe it this morning. Unfortunately with all the atrocities committed by IS and their followers it was bound to happen somewhere, it seems clear they chose NZ as a softer target than other countries so sad "

What a sad world we live in ! my thoughts are with NZ and the families affected, such senseless violence will achieve nothing except more heartache

John

Emgee try this from the show web site

Accommodation can be booked via Doncaster Tourist Information Centre on 01302 734309.

Adam, Mild steel is not a particularly good material to make your boring bars from, better to choose something tougher say EN8, EN19 or EN24T. Silver steel is OK but not great either IMO, personally I use EN24T and it works well.

John

David, I cannot answer your question definitively but I'm sure someone will do so, I believe however the system was set up to help prevent scam sales from overseas ?

John

Hi Dave [SOD] I use this type go cutter a lot cutting steel, gauge plate EN45 or EN9 mainly, some diameters similar to yours but not as deep, also some with a much smaller centre pin. For my purpose the cutter is a rougher and I finish machine the part in the lathe.

I use silver steel, harden in oil and temper to a pale straw in DAYLIGHT - not artificial light. I have made 4 tooth cutters but from experience make your cutters with only 2 teeth this gives more room for chip clearance, you need plenty of oil and clear the chips frequently. Probably for brass you can cut dry ? I cut the teeth by hand with hacksaw and file, it can be done by machine if time permits, however in my apprentice days we were taught how to make spot face and reverse spot face, countersink cutters etc by hand.

One more point is bore the centre hole of your cutter to the size you want, don't rely on drills and or reamers -- there is always a small bell mouth. For my smaller centre pins where its not so practical to bore I face off say .100" to negate the probability of a bell mouth.

John

PS I'll take some photos tomorrow

Have a look at M-Machine metals, page 21 onwards of their catalogue for steel, I have found them competitive on price and very obliging -- usual caveats apply I'm just a satisfied customer

**LINK**

John

Plus one for the Femi, had mine for many years and would not be without it, you can also purchase or make -easily - a horizontal table which is very useful.

John

Agreed George there are many competitively priced units, it depends o what you are making of course but I find that many of them are too short to be of use hence my choice of the longer one at 2.0" , really a cannot see why suppliers don't have them longer the cost would be [should be !] negligible and "putting on tools" are rarer than hens teeth !

John.

Maurice, have not read all the reply so apologies if I'm repeating but grinding is the way to go or abrasive paper, fishing rod handles are profited in this way, first by grinding a profile then fine finishing by hand with wet & dry paper. The cork shives are glued onto the blank and are quite large compared to the finished unit hence the grinding.

Regards John

Look on the Myford site here **LINK**

I used one recently to make an arbor for a milling cutter

John