Member postings for JohnF

Welcome Mohammed you will find this a very friendly forum and anything you need to know just ask and you will almost certainly get an answer whatever the subject.

John

Hi Gray,

I have been watching this with great interest and wonder if you will be publishing a book or drawings etc for this clutch? Is is indeed a very clever design and fitted neatly into the machine, my compliments.

Regards John

Alex, If you don't get a response try putting "Boxford SST 10 " in the keyword search box above and message the posters - hope fully you will get a response.

Look at **LINK** not a Hi resolution image but it may help.

Good luck with your project

John

PS where are you in NZ ?

Rob the way to go is change the motor to 3-phase and use an inverter drive, considerably more expensive but a one time purchase and it will I believe give you exactly what you are looking for.

John

Hi David,

Sorry to hear about your Dad always a difficult time, my sincere condolences.

However back to the Myford which I am sure was Dad's pride and joy, as far as value its difficult to be precise but it was probably made around the 1960's you can find the number on the lathe bed usually near the headstock and look up the date on the Myford web site.

The machine has a longitudinal travers but not a cross traverse, price is governed by age, condition and whats with the machine. For yours IMO age is good, condition is difficult to ascertain from the photo but it does look good and clean, one downside is it hasn't got a gearbox - not essential by any means but very desirable but so is the machine.

It would probably be worth looking for local ME clubs and contact them or look up SMEE in London and just maybe they will help with valuation?

I would start at a higher price - you can always negotiate from there.

Look at your PM as well --- little box flashing at the top of the page

John

Arckivio, have a look at this link for information on the D1--3 spindle that's used on the Emco super 11 lathe, if yours is the same spindle it will be useful **LINK**

John

Hello Arckivio, some more information would be useful, what make is your new lathe, what type if fitting is the spindle, screw on, DIN taper or ???

John

Colin, no reason why you should have a LH thread as long as you make sure the cutter is running in the right direction -- I notice on Arc's web site it appears that only the MT2 x 1" arbor has a LH thread ?? all the others seem to be RH

Are you sure the nut is not "bottoming" on the shank thus not gripping the cutter properly - this should not happen if the mandrel is made correctly and I would think this is not the case with one form Arc. All my mandrels are home made except 1 they are mostly locked with an Allen screw and I have no problems with driving the cutter. The purchased on came from

Was there a reason you removed the key e.g. no keyway in the cutter ?

John

Great news Mick, take it easy and don't rush things it takes longer for mother nature to work her magic as we get older -- keep them birthdays coming

Cheers John

Dave I fitted these in my workshop a couple of years ago to replace 2 ancient 8ft fluorescent fittings, there is also a relatively new 4 ft florescent over the bench so did not reface that.

Much brighter than the old 8ft ones and more economical

John

Hi Mick just saw this at lunch time so wish you well and a speedy recovery from over the hill-- take care of yourself

Best wishes John

Jim as Bri says thats a pretty poor effort for a tool and its been over heated during grinding ! Regarding the corner radius it should be the same all the way down the corner if its larger at the bottom you have increased the front and side clearance rake on the area of the radius thus making a weak cutting edge.

There are some photos in my albums of hand ground lathe tools but none that depict what you are asking - I'll add some later today or tonight to try to show "how to"

If I need a rad on a tool I grind the front, side & top rake first then for a small rad use just an oil stone, for a larger one rough out on the bench grinder and finish by hand, or I now have a small vertical linisher - really for sharpening woodworking tools but it also great for this type of operation as well.

John

Alex, I have one similar to this **LINK** mine came from RDG made by HMB and it works extremely well. Being in need of another I found the one in the link, they do ER25 as well.

However I am in contact with the company making enquiries on several points see your PM for contact details

John

I like the C spanner idea David, this could be incorporated into any chuck backplate or you could possibly use the chuck key hole to locate the C spanner dog on many chucks.

John

I would suggest ease of manufacture and economy, think how much more difficult it is the make a prismatic or flat bed and fitting all the components, saddle tailstock headstock -- far easier to turn/grind a long parallel tube and bore holes !

John

My machines are in a heated workshop under the house so no problems with condensation etc nevertheless I lubricate at the beginning of every use, bearings, bed etc and clean off all swarf when finished. My apprenticeship boss an ex army chap insisted we cleaned our machines and put all tools away -- oil is cheap machines are not -- it pays dividends in the long term.

John

I wonder how long it will be before these appear on the market ? Great idea !

Good morning Roddy and welcome advice in almost any field available on here you only need to ask, where in the north are you ? Good idea to show this on your profile, just basic location County or town John

Dick, my knowledge of clocks is relatively small, I have some but others on here will I'm sure have a much greater knowledge. However I would suggest remove the movement from the case then remove the pointers and the dial - should be self explanatory on how to. For the pointers you may need to make a puller - plenty of info on the internet.

To let down the spring make sure the movement is secure i.e. cannot move, then use the winding key on the shaft to control the spring and release the ratchet on the back of the drum - do this is easy stages so its controlled, it will get easier as the tension becomes less.

Hope this helps

John