Member postings for JohnF

Great to have you back Ian, you have been missed ! Believe it or not I was just having a neb at flights to NZ, fancy another trip soon-- not booked yet but !!!!

John

Hi Bill, Electricity is not my forte other than simple ring main and lighting wiring etc, however I had the same problem with my welders. The MIG ran just fine but my TIG which also has a stick welder outlet was a different story, for many years I had only a fused supply but we had the house upgraded to a modern RCD / MCB unit and I also did the workshop with a dedicated circuit for welders only as well as the ring main and lights.

From that point the TIG welder would start OK but after a singe run it would trip the MCB thereafter when trying to start a weld so contacted our spark who came and changed the MCB to a different rating - problem cured.

Trust this may be helpful but I am not competent to offer definitive advice but I can if you wish look at the MCB rating he fitted please let me know.

John

Peter, I reckon these are a pretty large size if i am reading the tape properly it would suggest they are S4 size tool post ?

Have a look here **LINK**

John

Thanks MichaelG that shows the system used so regarding my post please ignore the section shown above relating to the split nut ! I had assumed the adaptor was a two piece arrangement ! I have used the drill press arrangement to remove VERY tight slowed screws with great success and no marring of the screw head/slot.

John

edit - you will of course have to clamp the chuck body to the table

Edited By JohnF on 07/01/2020 10:48:45

Steve, not sure just what kit you have available, access to a pillar drill would be useful but you do say it is on a rotary table fitting so assume you have a small mill which may suffice ?

Anyway what I would try is first make a screwdriver from an allen key then with this in the pillar drill chuck use a split nut to grip the screwed adaptor in your well tightened vice and using the drill quill to apply downward pressure to the screwdriver thus preventing it slipping out of the slot and armed with a spanner you should be able to release the screw - providing the thread/nut do not slip.

Good luck John

I have one of these for my S7 from Pressparts **LINK** works very well and better than the genuine Myford one I have ! I also use a standard oil can, as it happens a Reilag but any will do for general lubrication of oil cups, bed etc.

John

I don't think its a Bitsa but probably the motor has been added and it was probably made to be run off a line shaft ?

Try putting "Vintage power hacksaw" into google then look at images -- there are many and you might find a look-a-like ?

Interesting old machine and well worth restoring !

John

Why not ask your punter to take the original item to his/her local paint shop/supplier and have it scanned then either purchase the paint or send you the RGB colour code ?

John

Robin, when hardening very small or thin items I just suspend the item with thin iron wire, the type that florists use is ideal, don't use galvanised, I heat it in close proximity to the oil quench with a large flame and dunk it immediately into the oil. Never had a problem with hardening this way.

John

Robin, a quick run down on the basics, after annealing and shaping heat to red hot and quench in oil - now comes the tricky bit - tempering !

In the absence of a temperature controlled muffle etc you can improvise

You can "blaze off" the oil by hovering the part over and not in the flame, the oil will catch light and burn away and hopefully your spring will be tempered, this can work well for small and thin springs such as yours but experience is all !

Alternatively as Michael suggests polish the spring to bright and heat in a bead of fine degreased brass chipping's until it turns dark blue in subdued daylight.

Another method if its a thicker spring is place it in a small tin with a small quantity of oil and heat the tin until the oil catches fire then allow the oil to burn away more or less until its all gone, apply a little extra heat if the flame starts to extinguish before most of the old has burnt away - again your spring will br tempered

John.

Plus one for the clock spring but 0.010" is quite thin, in any event you will have to temper the spring after hardening to a dark blue in daylight.

If you get a piece of clock spring ready heat treated you may well be ok just cutting to size and make the 3/16 dimension slightly wider as a start then compress in the unit you have made, the set will probably reduce slightly on 1st compression.

John

Edited By JohnF on 27/12/2019 23:42:17

Edited By JohnF on 27/12/2019 23:43:45

No problem for me Martin works perfectly and no inference of bugs ? I trust it has not caused you any problems !

John

Slightly different but look up Willard Wigan **LINK** he is an amazing chap and if you search his site or google you can find his life history. He was once at the Harrogate ME show displaying his incredible work,

Merry Christmas all

John

ChooChoo B I have a set from Myford fitted on a machine away from home shop, checked them today they are standard M10 metric course thread,

John

Derek, I believe Myford [Nottingham] were asked if this was possible and they said it was not but !! my guess is sooner or later someone will come up with a conversion -- maybe ?

However there is a post on this forum **LINK** you may find interesting.

John

Robin, You can buy it from Brownells UK gun supplies **LINK** but only in 1lb bags, however as already pointed out you will find lead free solder will work just fine with a suitable flux, the self cleaning flux for plumbers is fine but mildly acidic so you do need to wash the job to prevent problems.

John

Boss white is what you want, its sort of very soft putty, even after a lengthy period is will still be soft and its easy to disassemble, clean up and reassemble.

Available at most plumbers merchants and a small tin cost coppers !

John

Michael is spot on they and similar devices are or were used on many, mainly inspection grade tools and indeed precision machines, one of the Newall jig borer's I worked on used them in conjunction with a micrometer head and their roller measuring system

John

There should be 2 tapped holes in the dowels to facilitate removal with a small puller, they are ??BA have to check and you need a piece threaded bar & nut or an allen screw, a tube and a washer. I have heard some machines do not have the tapped hole ??? but never seen one.

John

Martin, here is a link to the gearbox manual

Forgot to say how old is your machine ? you can check the age with the serial number on the Myford site, earlier machines may well have a different gearbox and the installation is different

Broadly for what you need to do there are two type of lead screw, the later one passes through the gearbox to the gear train, the earlier one is connected to the gearbox with a sleeve on the RHS of the box. There may well be variations to this as well. My S7 is c1977 with power cross feed and I did have occasion to remove the apron, from memory -  first remove the gears on the LHS inside the change wheel cover then the dowels and screws on the RH end of the machine to release the lead screw support bracket, make sure the half nuts are open then withdraw the L/screw.

John

**LINK**

Edited By JohnF on 10/12/2019 18:54:00

Edited By JohnF on 10/12/2019 19:02:30