Member postings for JohnF

Hi Boris, to the best of my knowledge Youngs used BA threads on their reels Youngs went out of business a few years back. I would not say 100% they never used Whitworth but I have never come across it on their reels. As far as Unified threads I am confident you can ignore them on any UK manufactured reels, yes they were used particularly in the motor and aviation industry and probably in others but the fishing industry was/is very old school !

John

Well another thank you and just to echo all thats been said, a very friendly forum indeed.

Stay safe everyone !

John

Boris over the last 40 years or so i have fixed lots of British made reels, mainly fly reels and mostly the threads are Whitworth or BA a lot of 1/8 & 5/32 Whit but i have never come across 7/64 Whit. What makes of reels are you working on ? Hardy in particular use Whitworth threads for most of their screws on vintage reels & some are left hand.

John

Martin, use gauge plate to make the jaws -- far superior and easy to heat threat with minimum distortion .

John

One question -- which is the more valuable the tool you instal it in or the few pence you save by using cheap suspect batteries ???

Having been there and a leaking battery wrecking a fortunately not too expensive digital calliper I now purchase known brands from known sellers - not where they are or could be fakes !

You pays you money etc etc

John

Steamer & Andrew are absolutely correct according to Clarkson but as Nigel & IanT say I too was taught the same way and never had a problem. Another member messaged me and I replied thus below :---

I have made an album of the Clarkson instructions all in jpg format so you can read it there. It does in fact say as you do in 1. to just screw the cutter up to the location "point" in the chuck and tighten the lock nut -- no backing off !

However when and apprentice back in the early '60's we were advised to back off a very small amount so can only assume it was practical experience that was passed on -- always did it, still do and its never caused me a problem !

The principle of the Clarkson system is that the cutter is self tightening during use and it cannot be driven into or pulled out of the chuck by cutting forces it works extremely well.

John

Steve the chuck you have is made for use on light machines and has a spacial feature - the screw collar at the top of the chuck.

To use insert into your spindle with the collar clear of the spindle nose, tighten the draw bolt on the top of the machine spindle then screw the collar up to the meekest the spindle nose and nip it up.

Insert the correct collet for the cutter and screw the locking nut up by hand then insert the cutter and screw it to meet the location point inside the chuck, then back off the losing nut 1/8 of a turn and screw the cutter to meet the point again, now lock the chuck with the spanner. You can of course screw the cutter into the collet first BUT make sure it is not far enough in to meet the location point. Personally i never do this.

I think i have an instruction leaflet in my workshop for this chuck - will look tomorrow

John

Edited By JohnF on 28/04/2020 23:27:52

Edited By JohnF on 28/04/2020 23:28:49

Bob not sure where you found the information relating to 1941 ? When visiting the Beretta factory many years ago I saw this process working and manufacturing both rifle and shotgun barrels, however we were told the process was developed long before WW2 to circumnavigate the WW1 armistice treaty which did not allow Germany to posses any rifle drilling machines or rifling machines thus theoretically preventing them form re-arming ??? the hammer forging process was developed whereby they needed neither of the prohibited machines.

It is indeed an amazing process and barrel production time is reduced dramatically, another interesting fact is Beretta were at that time producing barrels by hammer forging and traditional methods, all barrels were crack tested before being assembled and sent to proof. From the traditional method a small [very] percentage would be rejected but on a later visit I noticed the crack testing had been abandoned the production manager said since they went 100% to hammer forging over a 1 year period there were nil rejects from the crack test !

Aquasure its a glue used to make or repair wet suits, sticks like nothing else and remains flexible, 100% waterproof, it comes in 2 versions standard -- takes 12 hours to cure or Rapid -cures in around 1 hour, IMO the standard is better ! PM me if you are stuck and cannot find locally to you.

John

Welcome Stephen, Aspatria - Hmm nice part of the wold that, did my apprenticeship 15 years afor thee ! Sounds like you have a nice workshop and enjoy being there. I too have a S7 among other lathes etc

Great and freindly forum you here you will enjoy contributing I'm sure and lots of advice when needed.

Stay safe as well John

I have had a Bullfinch torch for close to 50 years now, only once have I had a fault the auto ignition failed and the company fixed it and charged only return postage ! As far as the job in hand is concerned it should handle it comfortably but as already said you will need to make up a hearth, however beware some "fire bricks" are designed to absorb heat not reflect it, e.g. the ones from storage heaters, so make sure you have the correct bricks or other material.

Almost all my work is silver solder but for brazing you can use Borax, old fashioned yes but it was used pretty exclusively until better fluxes were developed.

Thomas, plus one for spurious metal supplies although not all embay suppliers are so but make sure they are a recognised UK company. You may consider M-machine metals, they do spring steel strip but the spec is not stated so ask.

Over the last 40+ years I have made a great many flat and V springs, I use either EN45 or EN47 IMO you temperature's are good at 770/780*C for hardening and 340 C for tempering. Many books say 300 C for spring temper -- they will break !

I would suggest you heat treat all the leaves separately and not as you have tried in an assembly, as Andrew says doing so will cause you problems. The soak time for hardening when done separately will be relatively short -- maybe 10 mins in a preheated muffle, quench in oil defiantly not water. temper as soon as your furnace drops to the required level and I would temper for say 20/30 mins minimum at 340deg C no need to quench but if you remove them from the furnace place on a fire brick or wood surface. Remember if you can't file it its too hard !

The distortion you are experiencing may be because you have an assembly rather than an individual piece? I have never experienced this phenomenon.

John

Steve, you need to give a little more information, what material is the tube, whats the O/D, what is the bore size, what thread specification do you want/need --- size & pitch if not a standard thread. Finally you quote " interior thread below 1 inch" do you mean the depth of the thread is to be at least 1" or greater ?

Bill, have a look at this post on this site **LINK** it pretty much everything you need and there is a link on the post to the QC gearbox assembly diagram

John

Edit -- Just to note the dowels on the tailstock end leadscrew bracket are tapped to facilitate removal -- you may have to make a simple puller -- they are ?? BA I can check this for you if needs be just PM me

Edited By JohnF on 08/04/2020 22:39:27

Absolutely true !! plus they would counters cabinet doors and fresh meat -- These cretins should be locked up and life would be too short !!! hopefully they will be caught !

John

Welcome Keith another Lancastrian here also just over the border -- venture to Haverthwaite regularly when not in lockdown - confined to barracks just now ! Happy to help or advise but my onboard computer was programmed in imperial

John

Made my first foray into colour case hardening yesterday, pretty much the same as process as regular case hardening, I have done lots of this when in industry and a fare amount since when needed. However Colour Case Hardening seems to be a bit if a black art but the object is to produce the mottled colours as well as a thin hard case as opposed to the much thicker case required for parts production or toolmaking. I used a tangential tool holder I made a while ago as the trial piece incase it all went wrong ! Then a pair of shotgun hammers I made -- this is the prime reason for wanting to "master" ? the process -- fairly happy with the first attempt but lots more experimenting to do. John

Morty, a pal has the same machine and did a refurb a couple of years back which turned out very well indeed, he had the same bed problem and not being flush with cash came up with a novel solution - too much to write here but if you want the "method" message me.

Enjoy the machine and the refurb

John

Have a look at these on the Myford site **LINK**

I purchased a set a few months back and they were the best value I could find

John

My three pennyworth -- whilst most of the designs are probably OK personally I favour the Dickson design this along with the Multifix are as far as i am aware the oldest designs around, Dickson originating in the UK and the Multifix in Switzerland I believe.

I have been using Dickson tool posts since the 1960's and consequently favour them, however as Michael rightly points out there are many qualities of manufacture. If price is not a main criteria I would choose those made by Bison, if price is a consideration then I would buy from one of the main supplier's [RGD, Chronos,Myford etc] but whoever you choose should you need additional holders buy from the same source.

JOHN