Member postings for Chris Gunn

John, I think Muzzer meant to type 7/16", the 1/4" tubing nuts are a ball hair under 7/16" O/D.

Chris Gunn

Murray, I still call them olives, and I have a tin full, however there are a few variations in shape depending on whose fittings they are to fit. I have loads of Enots olives. One of the popular makers were and still are I suppose, Enots, and I have a tin full of fittings as well. if for example you wanted some 1/8" BSP elbows with nuts and olives for 1/4" tube I can help you. Nowadays one would be using push in fittings, with 6mm tube instead of 1/4". If you wanted to update to that I can help you too, provided we are only talking a few. I may have some tube as well. PM me with a more detailed list of what you need and I will have a look.

Chris Gunn

I run my Bridgeport with a very early Transwave converter, and have had no problems running it all day. I have run it for about 8 years like this.

I have had the contactors in the panel trip out when it is very cold, when the spindle has a job to turn as the oil is so thick, but once it has warmed up it is OK. I had the original DC table feed motor fail gradually a year or so ago, it would not run slowly, just at full speed, and then gave up the ghost all together.

Chris Gunn

Del just had another thought or two, can the water get into the pump OK? Maybe obvious but are any of the pipes blocked with PTFE tape or a lump of silicone sealant for example?

Chris Gunn

Del, could that be the correct way it operates? It is getting water into the boiler presumably, if it were running continuously you might soon fill up the boiler with a pump ram that size. The water pump piston is 5/8" which seems pretty big to me, my 4" scale Garrett has a 5/8" piston feeding a much bigger boiler. Is there a restriction on the steam feed? it seems as if the pump will go when pressure builds on the steam side or water pressure drops on the pump side?

Chris Gunn

Sounds like a roller box, often used on Capstan lathes. Used as described by MIchael, with a suitable tool bit can be used for any material.

Chris Gunn

Duplicated

Chris Gunn

Edited By Chris Gunn on 29/03/2017 22:06:34

A stuck clack valve at the boiler end?

Chris Gunn

Oliver, If it is really really cheap, buy it, then sell it on and buy a single phase compressor.

Chris Gunn

Peter, glad you got it done, but not cheating at all, just following the advice of many who advised boring the hole prior to reaming.

Chris Gunn

It seems like you started off with a fairly small drill which would be very prone to wander over 3" the next drills would just follow the first. you might have got a better result drilling with the 31/64" drill only. For best results drill 15/32", bore out to 31/64" or .490" also not easy over 3", then ream.

Chris Gunn

I'm with Dave Spicer on this one, a small tapping machine, I recall a machine called a Flash tapper. Either way a good find.

Chris Gunn

Petrol head, If I were making tee nuts as you illustrate, I would start the "Perfect" side from the opposite end so feeding from right to left so the feed is going in the opposite direction than the cutter is trying to drag the work, and then tackle the opposite side in the reverse direction from left to right. Having the collet and quill locked up is essential too.

Chris Gunn

I have just given my 4CD a pre steam test steaming, I had injector problems at the back end of last season, and upon inspection yesterday I found the clack valve body full to the brim with black sludge, and the ball stuck in the middle of it. I cleaned all that out, confident I had found and solved the problem, soaked the injector in malt vinegar overnight, reassembled it all and when I tried it today no joy at all. I had an even closer look at the injector, and took it apart, and found a slug of silicone sealant in the centre hole. Once that was removed it worked fine. I note that most soak their injector in white vinegar instead of malt vinegar, I imagine there is a reason perhaps someone could tell me what it is.

Thanks, Chris Gunn

Rainbows, as these were supplied new, I would be onto the supplier, tell them you are a ball short, and ask what they are going to do about it.

Chris Gunn

Gareth, if you follow Jason's method above you will not go far wrong, I personally would silver solder a joint or weld it as well as pinning the joints if the engine was to do serious work using steam, especially if the crankshaft is sitting above a nice hot boiler as in a traction engine. If the engine finishes up running occasionally on air for demonstration I might consider Loctite plus pinning. Belt and braces in a key component is always a good idea.

Chris Gunn

Nick, I would suggest the model with the wider belt will be better, the belt should last longer, and it will take up no more room.

Chris Gunn

+ 1 for Foliac on all sides

Chris Gunn

When I did my apprentiship at Timsons, it was rumoured the pattern makers were paid the best rates in the place, and that is why I suppose.

Chris Gunn

Ian, if there half a mm clearance for the shank, you will need as much plus a bit for the head.

At the end of the day a lot will depend how accurate the mating holes can be drilled. Commercially some tolerances will be applied to hole centres, taking into account the hole sizes and so on. You may well be able to work more accurately and adjust the sizes accordingly as close as you can work, but this could be more expensive to achieve commercially.

Chris Gunn