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Member postings for Michael Cox 1

Here is a list of all the postings Michael Cox 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Gear cutters
02/07/2010 07:55:11
Thanks for your reply John. I sat down last night with pencil and paper and confirmed your numbers from the geometry. I still cannot understand where Ivan laws numbers come from.
Mike
01/07/2010 15:03:25
I am interested in making some gear cutter using the button method.
I have two reference to this method. The first is Ivan Laws book "Gears and Gear cutting" and the second in John Stevensons article in Metal Web News (http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/gear/gear1.html) . Both of these highly respected authors give tables for the button diameter, button spacing and infeed for various gears with a 20 degree pressure angle. However the numbers given in both tables are very different . For example for a gear cutter for 55-134 teeth Ivan Law quotes a button diameter of 32.15, a button spacing of 31.6and an infeed of 11.47. the corresponding numbers from John Stevensons table are 18.81, 19.07 and 3.415.
How can they both be correct? Is it that they assume a different tooth count to be the centre of the range for a particular cutter. Can someone please explain.
Mike
Thread: Alignment of lead screw on CL300
17/06/2010 18:57:20
Hi Mike,
A tee slotted cross slide is not that difficult to make. A description of mine is on my website:
 
05/06/2010 04:36:37
Your CL300 is a Seig 7 x 12 machine. If you look on the Yahoo 7 x 12 minilathe groupyou will find that this problem is always turning up. Shimming is the way to go to correct the problem as you have discovered. However, the distance of the apron from the leadscrew must remain constant along the whole legth of the lathe bed. You can check this by engaging the half nuts at both ends of the bed. The half nuts should engage easily at both ends (and in the middle) without causing the leadscrew to deflect significantly. If it does deflect then you have to play with the shimming until there is no deflection. Sometimes it is necessary to shim only one side of the pillow blocks in order to get both bores to be "in line".
Mike
Thread: Leveling a Warco 1224 Gear Head Lathe
27/04/2010 16:59:31
This is more or less how I have fastened my minilathe. The head stock end is firmly bolted down with two bolts (it seems unlikely to distort in the narrow direction) and the tailstock end bolts are just finger tight.
Mike
Thread: Plated Morse taper
21/04/2010 12:18:11
Hi Frank,
Chromium is very hard and wear resistant so, from this point of view, it is a good thing on a morse taper.
Mike
Thread: speed control pcb for Clarke CL300 lathe
12/04/2010 16:27:01
Hi John,
These circuit diagrams will be most useful.
Thank you.
Mike
Thread: Thread dial indicator
24/03/2010 13:43:17
Hi John,
Most of the articles in George Thomas's book are actually available on the home page of this website.
Mike
Thread: Upgrade C3 to new 500W motor?
24/03/2010 08:38:46
Hi Marcus, I do not thik that more power will necessarily solve your parting off problems. Good parting depends on a good rigid toolpost, topslide and cross slide. Run the spindle slowly, use a sharp tool and don't let it rub.
Some jobs require more power such as turning large diameters. Here the required spindle speed is slow so one solution is to install a layshaft and pulleys to reduce the speed of the spindle by say a half. This way you double the available torque.
The super C3 is very new and I doubt whether spares  will be availble yet but you could contact Arc Eurotrade to get the costs of the new motor and controller.
Mike
Thread: Rear Toolpost Parting Off on C3 Mini Lathe?
24/03/2010 08:26:52
Hi Marcus, the problem with fitting a rear toolpost to the standard cross-slide is that you end up with very little space between the front and rear toolpost and this then severely limits the workpiece diameter.
One way round this is to use the front toolpost but with the parting tool upside down and running the lathe spindle in reverse. This then creates the same parting conditions on the front toolpost  as would occur if a rear toolpost were fitted.
The second solution is to remake the cross slide so that it is longer to provide more room for the rear toolpost. I have done this to my Sieg lathe. Parting off becomes very easy with a rear toolpost..
Mike
Thread: cutting morse taper
23/03/2010 12:06:25
I have a technique that I use to cut morse tapers that gives satisfactory results. But in order to use it it is necessary to have a means of reproducibly changing the top slide angle. On my lathe I bolt a small piece of bar to the cross slide with an M3 screw that just touches the top slide. By loosening the top slide and then adjusting the screw the top slide angle can be easily altered by very small amounts. The technique is the roughly set the top slide at the right angle and then start cutting the taper. After a couple of passes test the taper with a femal taper to see if it rocks. Whilst doing this examine the junction of the taper and the female taper. If the piece has insufficient taper it will move at the mouth of the female taper. In this case increase the taper by adjusting the top slide using the screw. If the there is too much taper then there will be no side to side motion at the mouth of the female taper only a rocking motion. In this case then reduce the angle of the cross slide. After another cut test again and adjust the top slide as necessary. Within a very short number of iterations it is easy to obtain a perfect fit. For final fitting blueing can be done but usually this only confirms that the fit is perfect.
Mike
Thread: Making a screwcutting tap
25/02/2010 14:44:18
Hi Ramon,
My furnace is a gas fired furnace and I definitely would not use it inside my workshop for two reasons. Firstly, the workshop is in a large wooden outbuilding with wooden floors so the fire risks are high. Secondly gas fired furnaces have the potential to produce large quantities of carbon monoxide and I am too young to die!
Mike
 
23/02/2010 23:22:14
Hi Ramon,
I have a small furnace that I use for melting aluminium that I use for case hardening. I seal the part in a copper tube with charcoal and heat in the furnace for 1 hour. I think the depth of case is a "few thou". The advantage of this is the core is soft and not brittle. The tap works fine for brass but I have never tried it in steel. Probably you could get a reasonable case with a commercial  case hardening compound in a much shorter time and still have a tool that would last a reasonable time in soft metals.
With regard to the threaded land width it seems the smaller the better. This could be achieved, after cutting the flutes,by milling off more of the threaded part at quite a shallow angle so as not to reduce the core width too much. When I make another tap I will try this.
One detail I omitted in my earlier post was that I used 4 flutes to make the taps.
Mike
22/02/2010 17:28:30
Hi all,
I have made two taps to date. Both are 10 mm diameter 1 mm pitch left hand thread for making nuts for my minilathe leadscrew. Both worked although the first was very hard work to get through the brass nut. Both made from EN3 rod that was threaded then tapered 8 degrees. The flutes were milled with the mill slightly over centre to give a small positive rake. The first was milled to give a threaded land of about 4 mm and the second had a threaded land of only 2 mm. Both were case hardened in charcoal for 1 hour and then quenched. Neither had any relief. The first was really hard work to use but the second was much easier. I ascribe this to two reasons. Firstly, with lesser land there is less friction and secondly the deeper flutes provide better chip clearance.
Mike
Thread: Boring Question
11/02/2010 19:38:56
Ramon, the tool in the tangential holder is ordinary square tool steel. The tool is ground 30 degrees across the diagonal which makes the front face a right paralellogram.
Mike
11/02/2010 16:19:53
Ramon, there are some photo's of a very simple tangential toolholder in my photo file (Mikes Tools) on this site. If you would like drawings I have them in dxf format.
Mike
Thread: Info needed
10/02/2010 19:12:02
I have had dealings with Hugh and I have found him extremely helpful. Service from Amadeal is first rate.
Mike
Thread: How about a section on material sources
03/02/2010 21:57:59
Hi Clive,
Mike
Thread: "TINKER" tool & cutter grinder
03/02/2010 21:54:43
Hi Vic,
Have alook on the website www.gadgetbuilder.com. This sit e has much information on the Tinker cutter grinder, as well as experiences of using it.
Mike
Thread: Tachometer design
17/01/2010 12:59:32
With the price of digital electronic frequency meters now around the £10 mark (inc shipping) from China it is easier to simply use a disc with 60 holes attached to the rotating spindle with an opical sensor to give a reading directly in RPM. A project based on this was presented in MEW in 2009 or 2008.
An even simpler solution is to buy a cycle computer and fix a magnet to the shaft. I have used this solution using a cycle computer from Wilkinson's at a cost of £6.99. The unit gives a direct readouut in RPM.
Mike
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