Here is a list of all the postings Michael Cox 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: EN1a Copper Soft soldering |
17/11/2010 17:26:58 |
I have used Wickes Active Flux Paste many times for soldering steel, stainless steel as well as copper and brass. This flux is designed primarily for use on plumbing fittings but I used as a general purpose flux for everyting (except electrical work) and never had a bad joint.
It is corrosive and the part should be thoroughly washed after soldering is complete.
Mike |
Thread: Stock Suppliers |
01/11/2010 11:31:37 |
I buy most of my metal from m-machine in Darlington. Great range of products are available. They are very helpful. Only downside is that sometimes I have waited more than a week for delivery (perhaps because they were waiting for stock). Website is at:
Mike |
Thread: Model Super X1L Mill |
31/10/2010 19:30:50 |
I have owned an X!L mill for several years. It is fairly robust and rugged. However, you must remember that it is only a small mill with a 150 watt motor. You cannot make massive cuts in steel but what you cannot achieve in one pass can always be achieved with multiple passes. It has proved reliable although I suggest any new owner invests in a stock of replacement fuses since these do blow if you attampt a heavy cut.
I have made a number of mods to improve the performance and versatility of the machine. These are shown here:
At the moment I am working on a motorised drive for the table.
Mike |
Thread: Desperate ! Need parts list for Warco WM-240 lathe |
21/10/2010 16:45:11 |
I know this sounds silly but have you contacted Warco?
Mike |
Thread: Snapped 4BA Tap |
15/10/2010 19:01:03 |
Ferric chloride will attack the steel as well as the tap.
Mike |
15/10/2010 09:14:22 |
Is it a carbon steel tap or an HSS tap? If it is carbon steel the just heat the part to red heat and allow it to cool slowly. The tap will then be soft and it can be drilled out using a normal HSS twist drill. Then the hole can be plugged and retapped.
Mike |
Thread: Rear mounted tool post |
01/10/2010 14:58:06 |
With a front mounted parting tool, if the tool digs in then the tool moves downwards. In so doing it is forced between the workpiece and the cross slide. These are two fairly immovable objects so the tool is forced to dig further into the workpiece. With a rear mounted toolpost the tool will swing upward, away from the workpiece and the tool tends to self release from the dig in.
I do not agree with Richards comment regarding coolant. If this is applied to the groove it gets carried straight round to the cutting tool. In fact the deeper the groove becomes the more coolant that is carried round.
Mike |
Thread: Fly Cutting |
28/09/2010 08:52:15 |
Hi Graeme,
It is quite normal for the tool to cut on both sides since it describes a circle parallel to the workpiece.
The tool should be ground like a right hand lathe cutting tool with a slight radius at the tip.
I would run at a lower speed than 200 rpm (around 50-100 rpm). For a good finish reduce the cutting depth to around 0.05 mm, use plenty of lubricant and make sure that the tool is realy sharp.
I hope this helps.
Mike
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Thread: Drill Sharpening Jigs - Advice please. |
27/09/2010 08:14:14 |
Small drills (<6 mm) are relatively cheap that it is hardly worth the effort of regrinding them. On the other hand larger drills rapidly become more expensive with increasing size and these are relatively easy to resharpen using the cheap swing sharpeners and these are definitely worth re sharpening.
Mike |
Thread: speed control pcb for Clarke CL300 lathe |
17/09/2010 21:01:05 |
Hi Daryl,
I have a Clarke CL300M lathe. The spead control board on mine is type FC250J. This is printed on the board. ArcEurotrade are selling this board at £60 - see www.arceurotrade.co.uk
Unfortunately they are currently out of stock but it maybe worth enquiring when more is due. They are a very good and reliable outfit in my experience.
Mike |
Thread: taper turning on my "M" Drummond. |
17/09/2010 10:01:34 |
It is not difficult to make a simple adjustable offset centre that can be fitted onto or into the tailstock barrel. I have done this on my minilathe and it is really simple to use and set up. The best part is you don't have to spend hours realigning the tailstock afterwards.
My device is shown here:
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Thread: Gear cutters |
13/09/2010 18:18:18 |
I have made a small modification to John Stevensons method of making gear cutters that puts some top rake on the cutting tool. This greatly reduces the cutting forces when machining gears. A full description is here:
Mike |
Thread: Measuring the pressure angle of gears |
08/09/2010 11:10:34 |
Thanks for all the ideas.
I had tried some of these ideas.
The plasticine method sounds easy in principle but the gear I have been trying to measure is a MOD 1 plastic 30 tooth change gear for a minilathe. This is small and the plasticine tends to stick between the teeth.
The Gearpa.zip method also gave difficulties because differences were two small to measure reliably.
Gordons idea would certainly work on a large gear but is more difficult for small gears.
I have now convinced myself that the gear has a pressure angle of 20 degrees using the method described here:
Mike |
07/09/2010 13:31:34 |
Does anyone have any ideas about measuring the pressure angle of gears?
I have tried measuring the curvature of gear teeth form photos taken with a camera and with a USB microscope and then using Ivan law's circular approximation to estimate the pressure angle. However, I am getting very inconsistent results. Any other ideas?
Mike |
Thread: C3 Purchased |
06/09/2010 21:07:11 |
Hi Bob,
If the parting tool stops cutting as you cut into the bar the most likely cause is that the tool is too high and it has run out of relief.
Mike |
Thread: lathes |
02/09/2010 10:01:47 |
I would not get hung up about a tee slotted cross slide. As someone else suggested you can always make one. I did this for a 7 x 12 minilathe see:
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Thread: steel in the north west |
31/08/2010 12:58:37 |
I too would be interested if anyone knows of steel (in small quantities) suppliers in the North West. I live near Runcorn.
Mike |
Thread: Gear cutters |
17/08/2010 00:03:50 |
Hi Wheeltapper,
I too have been through the frustration of making gear cutters by the Ivan Law method. The John Stevensons method is much simpler and I have had good results. See my web pages:
Mike
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Thread: Gear milling |
31/07/2010 21:39:51 |
On my website are two pages relating to gear cutting. You can find them at
Mike |
Thread: Gear cutters |
16/07/2010 22:47:51 |
I have added a page to my website on making gear cutters. You can find it at
Mike |
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