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Member postings for Gordon W

Here is a list of all the postings Gordon W has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Alignment of lead screw on CL300
16/06/2010 11:49:17
Glad its finally sorted, I don't have the modern speed control, so starting fast is all to easy, esp. when not fully switched on, me not the m/c. 8 thou. out seems a lot, did you shim the m/cd block to compensate for the reduced thickness, or am I missing something?
12/06/2010 09:55:25
Further to my last post, written before my 2nd coffee. Is it possible the leadscrew got bent? Assuming it was put in the chuck and down the spindle for turning& drilling, an accidental start on high speed could whip the long rear part. I know 'cause I did that with a 3/4" brass bar.
11/06/2010 08:57:52
I did the same mod. on my far east lathe and had no problems, both bearing blocks are dowelled to ensure alignment. Is it possible the leadscrew was dropped?
Thread: Countersinking - guidance please...?
07/06/2010 14:50:50
I used to have c/sinking trouble on little bench drill, until I realised you must go slow, revs and feed. Just look at the width of cut. I 've 3 c/sinks,one a multi groove thing ,useless except on wood, two 3 face ones, one made in Germany,tother no name, both work very well
Thread: wrought iron
07/06/2010 10:46:48
Thanks for the responses. This iron was left over from when I made gates etc. and was bought for a repair job, I understood it is re-rolled from scrap w-iron, by a preserved (museum?) mill, so age not known. Wrought iron not made anywhere now, so expensive. Could make railing spikes ,but mild st. much cheaper. I'd forgotten the good hot performance, low corrosion aspect, so may use some for fire box/ grate in hot air engine. Can confirm that it is much better than mild st. in normal atmosphere.
06/06/2010 11:55:29
A bit of an idle question really:- I was having a tidy up and rediscovered a bundle of short ends of wrought iron, left over from an earlier existence, these are mostly small section , 1/2" sq. and similar. Does anyone have an idea what I might use them for, eg. where might they be better than mild steel? Or do I put them in the come in handy pile. NB this is WI, not MS.
Thread: Railway related beers
28/05/2010 08:48:20
Tenuous connection, Black Sheep , Theakstons ,just across the road from Masham steam rally, used to run the beer tent there.
Thread: How to drill hardened and ground steel
17/05/2010 09:11:02
Two ideas I've tried, both rough engineering. :- Grind masonry drill as  a spade drill, often works, very slow. Maybe the part is case hardened, not thru' hardened, try a conical grinding bit to remove the corner, then a standard drill.
Thread: 2-stroke timing
08/05/2010 10:07:25
Glad you got it working finally. Just a by -the-way, the Woodruff key is not meant to transmit any torque, just for location, the taper should hold the flywheel.The little Villiers, 2 and 4 stroke, didn't have keys, but did have clear timing marks(and self extracting flywheels). The motor I mentioned earlier that had hydraulic locked and sheared the key;- well the water got into the petrol after the man had dropped his strimmer into the pond.
07/05/2010 10:06:19
I agree with all the above, but from past experience;- double check the carb. esp. pilot jet /passage ,corrosion and or bits of dirt can hide there. How did the water get in the fuel? It is possible for the motor to hydraulic lock, if this happens at speed the flywheel might well move, but very unlikely.
Thread: Marking out fluid
05/05/2010 11:07:12
Marked out ally plate last night using permanent black marker, cleaned surface first with meths. Just finished boring hole, paraffin coolant, all the black marker has gone, just as well put in plenty of centre pops. Probably different makes will behave differently.
Thread: Hot air and stirling engines
01/05/2010 09:47:07
Might the improvement in performance be partly due to "running in"? Interesting motoring the engine and getting cold, of course we all know this is supposed to happen, but to experience it must be great. Slightly tongue in cheek question ; I've managed to explain to the lads down the pub how a hot air engine works, sort of, but totally failed to explain how they can run in reverse, any ideas?
Thread: "Foundation" book has got me worried
29/04/2010 10:58:11
This is a constant theme ,the answer is it all depends, I have two sheds ,one with leaky tin roof and old stone walls, I've a 20 yr. old pillar drill in there which is often covered in snow, never mind condensation. But it is in almost constant use and covered in old engine oil, and no rust. Welding rods, small tools etc. kept in old steel cabinet with silica gel sachets, these usually are OK, the whole thing is very well ventilated. Small "clean" shop with lathe and bits is timber with tin roof and is often damp but no serious rust over the years, again the door is open when ever possible, tools are oiled. It all depends on what you want to spend, and how often tools etc. are used.
Thread: Drive belt tensioning dolly wheel
08/04/2010 09:44:12
Go down to local garage, get old jockey wheels of timing belts. These should be replaced with new belt, so plenty being scrapped and are usually OK for all sorts of uses.
Thread: Hot air and stirling engines
08/04/2010 09:39:57
Ian sc, A "snifter" valve will only let in atm. air if the crankcase pressure is below air pressure, which for a non-pressurised motor it might well be.
Thread: Brazing Pickle
07/04/2010 09:20:27
I've mentioned this before in a different thread, but hope it may be of interest. I wasstuck at home with no transport etc. and needed to clean a small silver soldered boiler, so I used what I could find, washing powder as used in w/ machines boiled up in pan. Worked very well. Next did a stainless silver soldered cylinder, just in hot water in sink and scrubbed, worked very well, also got browny points for cleaning sink. This stuff is caustic so careful with skin etc. and rinse well. Both these items are laying about in w/shop and show no sign of corrosion etc. after 2 months.
Thread: Rear Toolpost Parting Off on C3 Mini Lathe?
04/04/2010 17:04:04
I've been looking at the tipped tools ,which I think you are describing, not cheap but probabley worth saving for. How do you part 3" bar ? Must be min. of 1 1/2" overhang.
04/04/2010 13:04:54
Thanks for all that mgj, more or less what I was thinking, normal tool mounting puts the load into the machine bed, which is where it should be. So have stopped making upside down holder and back to normal. Interestingly I never had much of a problem parting off, until I started reading the ME literature, but only did small bushes and the like. A tecnique I use for deeper cuts is to withdraw the tool, move over slightly to widen the cut, then go in again, this of course gives more side clearance. I feel lack of side clearance is often the problem.
02/04/2010 10:41:04
I've just come in from w/shop, making an upside down parting tool for my slightly bigger than a mini lathe. I've read lots on why rear parting or upside down in reverse works so well, and I'm idly thinking why don't we do all turning this way? Surely the mechanics are the same? Please tell me where I'm wrong.
Thread: Anodising
30/03/2010 10:24:05
I'm no expert in alloy cleansing, many years ago, trying to clean old castor oil off a BSA Gold Star rocker cover with hot caustic soda left it to long, no rocker cover. I found by accident that washing powder ( the stuff that goes in washing machine) in hot water is a good cleaner for ally, have boiled up and recovered a 50 yr. old carb. recently. Also cleaned a silver soldered brass boiler and a S/S silver soldered displacer, very effective. This stuff is hard on the skin and of course wash afterwards. Hope this might be of use.
<< First < Prev 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 Next > Last >>
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