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Member postings for Gordon W

Here is a list of all the postings Gordon W has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

<< First < Prev 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 Next > Last >>
Thread: Guidance on turning in a vertical mill
27/12/2010 15:40:50

What's a horizontal borer then ? Mill, lathe or borer.
Thread: Lament for a lost grease.
24/12/2010 13:38:31
Was in my local garage a couple of weeks ago. They had some stuff labeled "racing grease" I asked the man what it was, He laughed and said " expensive"
Thread: Late delivery of magazines due to adverse weather
23/12/2010 12:11:01
Got the first postal del. for 2 weeks yesterday, at a house near me. No mags. at all, just bank statements and ads.
Thread: Metal fatigue and clock making
22/12/2010 17:31:56
I don't know what metal fatigue has to do with the original question. Wasn't it about bending a bit of black bar ? Drilling a hole at end of a crack is a standard technique, good enough for cracked cylinder blocks, cracks in chassis etc. etc. If welding a crack in thinnish stuff, start at crack end ,this closes the crack and stops it spreading, probably not used on machines carrying lots of people, esp. above ground.
Thread: Chuck Salvage?
21/12/2010 15:57:05
This derusting topic keeps cropping up. My advice is drop into paraffin ( better than diesel)  ,tap all moving parts gently on a regular basis, and have patience. I've recovered all sorts over the years, including a small engine that had been at the bottom of the sea for 5 yrs. Read on a US website , a test of penetrating fluids concluded the best was a 50/50 mix of brake fluid and acetone, haven't tried it yet but sounds right.
Thread: HSS tool inserts
20/12/2010 17:44:48
Interesting that, Len. I've got a couple of tools, 1/2" square mild steel with a bit of a hard cutting edge, been wondering what they were, must be welded deposit, although they look commercially made, and to far gone to be of much use now.
Thread: Metal fatigue and clock making
20/12/2010 10:26:04
Still can't find the original drawings, but- corners like these, in the olden days, were often made by upsetting the ends and forming into 90deg. "brackets", then riveting onto flat pieces. An easier modern way is to make the saw cut on the outside of the bend, then weld, makes a neat joint. The old fire welding blacksmiths would have used electric welding if they had the chance. Sorry not properly formed para. but have found the spell -check button.
19/12/2010 16:11:50
I don't understand this, are you trying to bend across the 1" dimn. ? ie. cut 3/4" deep. If so mitre end and weld as said. If bending the 1/8" thickness can do it cold with a big vise and square block and hammer, can get a good sharp corner if needed. Wrought iron is not made anywhere in the world anymore, the last lot I got, 20 yrs. ago was some re-worked stuff from an industrial museum, but I would like to be proved wrong.
Thread: Scale model Economy hit & miss engine builders wanted
19/12/2010 10:29:08
Balancing a single cyl. is not possible, all the previous information is good. I'm a bit reluctant to post this, 'cos I will get shot down, but:_ An easy way to get some sort of balance is to weigh the con rod and piston, then take ,from 1/3 to 2/3 of this weight, depending on what you think will be the best. Get some lead strip the same as your decided weight and wrap round the crankpin. Then balance as a wheel. Good simple formulae for balancing in Tuning for Speed and Speed and How to Obtain It, both old M/cycle books
Thread: issue 171
19/12/2010 10:07:44
Stop moaning you lot, havn't been out since last Wednesday, no mail or anything else, and don,t expect to see anything except white 'till next midweek. Lucky the leccy is still on.
Thread: Hot air and stirling engines
17/12/2010 17:36:22
Snowed in again, and b cold, but have been in shop, making the displacer actuator rod, all will be revealed one day! The ally of piston not in contact with cyl. wall, just the leather, like some air pistols. Am re-assessing the design as I go, and am probably too light, but never really expect it to work. If all is well then I might start spending money on it, like a very big lump of cast iron, and proper bearings.
Thread: Can I bore or slot drill instead of counterbore?
13/12/2010 10:24:38
All bolts / screws have a radius here. If the fit of bolt to hole is good then a c/sink must be used. For the use this is getting a good clearance would be ok. I just use a std. drill for this sort of duty, if worried about this crude system just turn a 120 deg chamfer on bolt head, easier than making a c/bore.
Thread: End mills in a drill chuck
08/12/2010 11:26:46
Got an ex libarary book for 50p. Milling in the lathe, by T Cain. On the front cover is a cylinder having ports milled out (?) Milling cutter held in 3 jaw. I think this T. Cain was quite well known at the time.
Thread: lathe belt
06/12/2010 11:50:05
Glad you've got a belt, W/tapper. I've emailed a couple of USA sources and hope for a result. It's a great pity this has happened 'cos I like the lathe, does just what I need with no electronics. Some obs. which may be of use to others with a similar set-up. I found embedded dirt in the wheel grooves, this may have resulted in belt stretch, clean them out, right down to the bottom. Keep an eye on belt tension, I used the "turn thru' 90 deg." method ,but have no idea what the tension should be. If using faceplate or big 4 jaw there is a huge inertial load to start up, giving it a start by hand helps. ( don't try at home)
05/12/2010 13:24:39
Jason , that is the very pulley. My plan, if all else fails is to turn the teeth of it, then bore a standard pulley to fit over the outside. If I end with a lower ratio, even better .Will have to the small motor pulley as well, of course. Might even be cheaper in the long run
05/12/2010 10:39:36
Thanks again for suggestions. Terry,  did not get email, so did not ignore, grizzly is speed controlled motor. Just to repeat, the belt I need is a toothed belt ,from motor to counter-shaft. I have tried all the usual suppliers with no luck. Difficult to measure accurately as belt is a bit mangled, also teeth are only about 1mm high, so pitch line is a bit debatable. All I know is it does not match any of usual standards,or come anywhere near. Teeth are for drive only, not for timing. Can't find F belt. Looks like redesign is the way to go, but will keep trying to find another supplier, would be a great help if could get the original spec.
04/12/2010 10:03:39
Thanks for all the replies. The F section seems a possible , will try to track it down, can't find any ref. anywhere. Tried hawking the belt around, very limited round here unless it fits a tractor. Belt is still just usable, so will look into getting pullies and belt for metric HTD range and make the mods .if possible . Chester ignored emails, the man that deals with these things is busy in the workshop, and doesn't reply to tel. calls, ( thats a quote ) This was made in 2006 so hardly old.
03/12/2010 17:23:53
Thanks for replies so far. Yes I asked Chester first, they can't help, which is why I posted here. It's the toothed belt I need , like a minature timing belt, although the V belt is not a common size I found one OK. It would help if I can find the belt standard, if there is one.
03/12/2010 11:49:09
Can anyone suggest a source for a new belt for my lathe? lathe is a Chester DB8, 3 yrs. old,direct belt drive, ie. not speed controlled motor. Belt is non standard. 15mm wide toothed belt, made from polyurethane ? Tooth pitch measured with steel rule is about 4.5mm, tooth width about 1.5mm. No. of teeth124 (more will be OK) length outside belt 560 mm.thickness over teeth 2mm. I can't find anything on the web, tried all the belt suppliers. Maybe some other machine uses this belt. Other approach will be convert to a standard belt and pulleys, any one done this? Will be difficult as will only have high range speeds.
Thread: Flux for HMP soft solder?
03/12/2010 09:35:28
Another way to apply Bakers fluid, for small jobs is a bit of tube, with finger over end, eye dropper really.I'm using Bakers for all soft soldering now I've managed to buy some. ( except electrical)
<< First < Prev 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 Next > Last >>
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