Member postings for bricky

I owned a Mark1 and enjoyed using it,the drawback with it is repositioning the head after raising it.I have an SX3 and bought a laser centre finder for it ,if I had a DW now I would buy the laser centre finder and one would not have to lower the head to centre on a punch mark.For that money go for it.If replaced by another mill it will make an excellent bench drill.I wish I had kept mine for this purpose.

Frank

Showed my son [34]how to make two bolts off the brake callipers on his car which both sheared off whilst removing them to fit new.They worked a treat,a successful Saturday but I missed those couple of pints in the pub.

Hi all

having seenJock Millers article on this subject in the latest MEW I asked a friend to roll me some bands as I wanted to make the stops to his design.An hour later I remembered that I had bought some Jubilee Clip banding and the screw adjusters.these will do the job and no need to get the bands of steel rolled,just tighten the threaded band in the right position.I will silver solder the stop to the band on the opposite side of the screw adjuster.Great idea Jock I am just coming up to some radius milling.

Frank.

It's good to see shows starting up as it will help keep the hobby alive.Manchester is to far for me but the Spalding show which started two years ago allowed my friend and I to exhibit,with only 30 miles to travel this is not to much of a chore.The Harrogate show moving to Doncaster race course is also within reach ,giving the East midlands better access to shows.All credit to the organisers and wish them all the success they deserve.

Frank

The piston is now 1/4" chilled on the skirt I am thinking of changing tack and using a steel piston ,as it has piston rings I hope that differing expansion rates won't be a problem.

Frank

I have had it in the fire overnight and then cooled it in a bucket of ash.Nearly there a third is still chilled so I am making progress.I have taken it to bright orange with my torches and buried it in the ashes,fingers crossed I might get a result.

Thanks for your replies,I will screwcut and use it as a chaser as sugested.

Frank

I have aquired a 40mm*1.5mm tap for forming the threads on accessories for my large bore Myford.Can I bore to size and tap without screwcutting or is that going to be to difficult.I have never used a tap this size before so I am seeking advice.

Frank

I have had it in the fire and left it for hours then buried it in some kiln dried sand until cooled.The chilled area has migrated to the end of the casting or was at the end as well as the seams.Should I try again?

Frank

I am building the Centaur gas engine and had problems with the cylinder liner being chilled along the mould joints.This caused an oval bore which took many hours to hone true.I have the same problem with the piston casting but it is 1/2" of the circumferance of the skirt.I am osing aTC tipped Knife tool but it is not cutting properly over the chilled area .Has anybody got an idea what to do,I am desperate for advice.

Frank

Kieth

The Taper from the face of the spindle to the start of the 1" bore is 2.5" and as the test bar that I bought has a taper of 4" so it would not enter the 1" bore so I had to reduce the end of the taper by 1.5" for it to fit.Thanks to Rods sugestion I used a tipped Knife tool ground to a small tip and using 77 rpm and fine cuts so as not to build up to much heat as well as lots of coolant .I was wary of the build up of heat but using this approach it was barly noticable.A satifactory result.Thanks to all who replied to my dilema.

Frank

Thanks for al the input.I will give your sugestion a go Rod there is 1.5" to reduce to 1" so that it will fit into the 2.5" long taper of the spindle bore.I did tell Warco's salesman I wanted it for a large bore Myford.

Frank

I bought a 4 morse taper test bar from the Allexander Palace show on Saturday.I have a Myford large bore and discovered when tried that it is to long and won't enter the 1" bore to allow the taper to seat.I don't want to cut off the end, if at all possible as I wish to retain the centre pop so that I can use the bar for between testing.The bar is hardened,can I turn this down or is grinding the only solution.Your approach to the problem would be appreciated.

Frank

I have an SX3 and bought from ARC 5 years ago,it had a small mechanical problem and was fixed immediatly.The machine is a joy to use if you don't expect it to work as hard as an industrial machine.I have had no issues with and cannot fault the customer service from ARC.

Frank

My workshop is 5mt*5mt there is a studio above.The walls are 4" brickwork and has 3 double glazed windows.I run a dehumidifier on economy 7 over night from 11 until 8 in the morning on a time switch.I never have heat in the workshop and just wear extra clothes when the temperature drops to 40f. i have no rust and I would recommend anyone to use a dehumidifier.I think that heating a workshop intermitantly can cause condensation to form.I have worked outside for 50 years so the cold doesn't bother me.

Frank

Hi

Could someone explain the square cube law please in relation to scale down engines.

Frank

i

Let down a square file old by preferance ,forge the ends over in opposite directions.Grind to form a boring bar and the other end for internal screw cutting.Harden and temper. Mine is second hand and was forged back in the 1920,s It is 9" long but works a treat.

IFrank

Let down a square file old by preferance ,forge the ends over in opposite directions.Grind to form a boring bar and the other end for internal screw cutting.Harden and temper. Mine is second hand and was forged back in the 1920,s It is 9" long but works a treat.

IFrank

I find that in general shortening of speech is common.New build instead of new building,your spend ,your shop.This is promoted in magazines ,adverts and television.More, is inserted before a word instead of using plurals .Is this to do with texting that people have got used to shortening words .Gripe over.

Frank

Hi

Nobody has yet mentioned that the space availiable will not allow the cross slide far enough to the end of the bed for the tool to start at the end of the bar.Before starting check this out.

Frank