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Member postings for Nigel Hyde

Here is a list of all the postings Nigel Hyde has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Massey Ferguson Tractor on front cover of ME 4382
19/07/2010 22:19:43
I have to agree with Donald Mitchell on this front
why do we need a rally report in model engineer?
and as for the front cover i would prefer to see someones model on the front.
i was a subscriber (until this week) i just feel its not scratching where i itch!
Thread: Beginners 31/2" loco
14/07/2010 21:30:51
Hi Eddie
I am just finishing off a tich and i have struggled like mad on it (too small as i didnt make it slip eccentric!!)
I am the same as you as i am not a machinist i am a carpenter, I have tha advantage of my dad who has built 5" locos and is a very skilled engineer
If i was starting again i would look at something like a sweet voilet (3.5")or sweet pea(5")
mainly using blackgates
tich is ok as an engine but i have spent 4 years on it and at my club the track is fairly big and me being on the festively plump side and my daughter whats a ride on it !!
for a bit more work you might get a more usefull engine
sweet violet plans from blackgates are £20 and oinly 4 sheets
simple as hackworth valve gear and a marine boiler
but above all build something YOU want to build
(i have no conections with blackgates)
hope this helps  
Nigel
Thread: Harrogate show
09/05/2010 19:43:34
I also really enjoyed my time at the show and spent far to much money!!!!(haven't told the misses yet!)  I am also on the search for reasonably  priced nuts and bolts
who is this supllier in leeds? and what do trhey stock?
 
cheers Nigel
Thread: Warco minimill OR SIEG Super X2 OR none of them ?
11/03/2010 10:00:10
Marcus
It may well be that my minimill was very much a one off problem but then Peter  mentioned it re his machine(9/3/10).....bells rang!. My first thoughts were that I had imperial dials with a metric screw. my calculations told me this was not the case.
To me accuracy of the dials is all important, I really could not be bothered with multiplying every dimensional movement by a calculated factor......life's too short.
Quite simply the machine was not fit for its intended purpose and the supplier accepted it back. Can I suggest that you request from the supplier details of the accuracy of the dials on the minimill before purchase.
I stress this may have been a one (or two) off. My replacement WM-14 with 8900 swivel base machine vice is very good,giving me the precision I require and doing all I ask of it. .
09/03/2010 22:41:55
Hello
Re the Warco Minimill, I bought one and I  found that the cross-feed dials bore no relationship to actual movement. I thought it was just mine................Warco did not understand it. They did, in fairness offer me a free digital scale to fit to the machine. I declined the offer, Warco took it back in exchange for a WM-14 (I paid the difference)
 
So if you rely on the dials, you may have a problem with the minimill
 
Thread: Starting from scratch
22/02/2010 18:48:59
Hi Graham
whatever you dont build titch !!
I have mine just about complete, its been a nightmare ! (too small)
I wanted to build mine with slip eccentrics, but i was advised to build it with full valve gear, this i think was the problem, mine has been on the go for a few years, if it was not for my dad wo has built lots of loco's i would have stopped it long ago,
You will spend just as long making titch as any other engine and have an engine that will pull you around, me being a bit on the big boned size!
I am looking for my next project, got to be 5" as things get easier the bigger you go (i hope!)
 I looked at stationary engines at the start but just wanted an engine to thrash around a track
I have done all my work on my super 7 and vertical slide
I have heard good things about sweet violet (31/2" sweet pea)
Good luck
its a great hobby
Nigel
Thread: LBSC L Class Baltic Tank in 71/4"
16/02/2010 18:03:03
Me to i would love to build one in 5" or 31/2 " one day !!!!
I have never seen a 3.5" or a 5" advertised though
Nigel
Thread: drilling holes in axleboxes
31/01/2010 20:53:13
Hello
I am revamping an old chasis and i need to replace the axleboxes.
This loco does not have horns, but the axleboxes run on the frames, so i made the  new boxes all the same and filled the frames to fit
Do i need to make a jig to drill and ream the hole or would it be good enough to set them up in the four jaw?
how do you all do it?
 
Thanks
 Nigel
Thread: clack valves
27/01/2010 20:42:53
Thanks macmarch
when I am up the club tomorrow i will dig out that mag.
boiler test for a new tich boiler tomorrow I might take my wellies!!!
 
 thanks  to everybody who has posted a response on this subject
Nigel
26/01/2010 23:36:23
Thanks everyone
I have now re seated my clack's using Circlips method and it works well.
All i need now is more time to play trains!!! (story of my life !)
 
thanks again
cheers Nigel
24/01/2010 20:04:30
Hum yer
 
 i am after an easy option!
 
 then can i replace my balls in my clack valve with a nitron ones?
i am concerned about the sharp edge on the seating will this damge the ball?. am i worring over nothing?
 
thanks Nigel
 
23/01/2010 20:59:24
Hello all,
I need to make some new clack valves for a new loco.
Has anybody any drawings or advice on making clack valves with a shuttle and o rings rather than balls?
 
thanks Nigel
Thread: Captive steam fittings (on loco's))
16/01/2010 12:12:30
Thanks John & Jeff, I think,as the bodies are made and in situ I will go along John's route.Worth looking at Jeff's for new makes. Yes you are right, I am trying  to comply with what appears to be current regulations on my existing locomotives. I fear for example removing the complete blower valve unit from my 30 year old Simplex Boiler!
 
Thanks
 
Nigel
15/01/2010 20:55:09
I need to convert my loco's steam fittings so that they cannot completely unscrew . Any ideas re modification or making would be welcome
Thanks
Nigel
Thread: Boiler making hearth
07/11/2009 21:06:01
Hi Tony
I have just finished a 3.5" tich boiler
and for the hearth i used fire brick from wilkinsons they are about 11/4 thick and about 6" x 4" ish they are really good and dont retain much heat and best of all there about £2.50 ish each !
worth looking into
they also do a cast iron grate for full size fire places at about £19
 
all i used was an old workmate staked with wilkinsons fire bricks
i will use this method again
 
hope this helps Nigel
 
 
Thread: B & Q Steel stock
04/11/2009 21:14:17
I use metal supermarket in Coventry
they are great. a fast and friendly service  
and have great stocks of all types of metal
and are happy to cut little bits
 
(i have no conections ,but i use them all the time!)
Thread: Starting the Q1
04/11/2009 21:07:46
Hi all
I am getting on quite well with the q1 just about to start the axles
i would like to put a water pump in the loco rather than the tender, Nick says its possible  has anybody found out a good design/ castings ?
 
also crank webbs on the axles would it be best if these were made out of gauge plate or will mild steel do? 
thanks Nigel
 
all the bits i have ordered off of polly model engineering  have been delvered fast and of a very good quailty 
 
Thread: Charlie - A southern Railway Q1 locomotive in 3 1/2in. gauge
08/09/2009 18:23:17
Thanks Nick
I am getting on well at the moment no real tears yet!
i am finding it very straight forward so far, good drawings and good write ups .
i thought to save a bit of money i would machine the horns from solid steel and make cast iron axleboxes
but now looking back i wish i had bought the castings because it took so long !
i was down at bristol model engineering show a couple of weeks ago and it was great to see the actual loco on display many photo's were taken
what a lovely model  
Nigel
 
Thread: What coal !!!!
31/08/2009 17:33:16
thanks for the info i will ring them
Nigel hyde
30/08/2009 18:54:21
Hi can anybody out there help?
I have been trying to steam a simplex today and having real problems with the coal.
It used to fire well and now with a new boiler cert it won't hold the fire
so what type of coal is best to use? i am not sure what type i am using but i know its not welsh steam coal
i have been told that Anthracite beans is best, is this true?
 
thanks
Nigel Hyde
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