Here is a list of all the postings Geoff Theasby has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Metal filler? |
20/08/2009 16:33:48 |
I have made a mistake in a block of aluminium, after filing to shape and drilling.
Is there a product which I can obtain to fill a hole and redrill and tap the correct size? It is only a small block, not under any strain.
I'm sure I have seen mention of this is ME, but can't recall which issue.
Regards
Geoff |
Thread: Hss or Carbide Tooling? |
09/08/2009 15:02:07 |
Hi,
I too am just a beginner, and I haven't made much, yet.
However, I use HSS bits from Chronos and have broken one or two (my fault). I reground them by hand on a bench grinder, and they seemed to work OK afterwards. I also regrind twist drills by hand on the grinder, and they seem to work OK, too.
I wonder if we don't make too much of getting all the angles right, I know how to put rake on, and am not looking for a mirror finish, so maybe I am just building up a list of bad habits? Ho Ho.
Regards
Geoff |
Thread: Granite Surface plates |
08/08/2009 00:04:02 |
I bought a "granite" placemat ( a packof two in fact) from Tesco for £5.98.
The surface seems superb, according to my straightedge.
I am doubtful, however as to to its "granite" constitiuency, since it is limited to a temperature of 90 degrees C, whereas granite melts at about 1300 degrees C.
Possibly it is of a granite dust/resin mixture.
No matter, we require its surface properties, not its heatproof ability.
SWMBO does not require the extra placemat, so I have two surface plates!
Regards
Geoff |
Thread: BOILER DRILLING & TAPPING |
04/08/2009 04:07:16 |
My Dad taught me how to drill a car inlet manifold in situ, in order to fit a vacuum gauge.
Basically, don't let the drill break through more than a minimum amount and grease the tap.
Regards
Geoff Theasby |
Thread: BA Threads or Metric Threads? |
12/07/2009 04:51:09 |
BA threads aren't obsolete, neither are Imperial threads, or ME threads, come to that. As in full-sized practice, they remain in use for repairs and renovations, and people like Stuart still use them even in new kits.
The recommendation is that we use Metric for anything newly designed. However, we shall be able to buy BA (which is metric based) and Imperial for years to come. Imperial sized screws can still be bought from industrial suppliers, even Whitworth threads.
I, too, am new to model engineering, although having worked in industry for many years, and my first lathe is a Unimat 3, built to metric standards, so I have concentrated on metric taps and dies.
Regards
Geoff
|
Thread: lathe tool cutting oils |
11/07/2009 17:37:39 |
I am glad to see someone else using 3-in-1.
I use nothing else, and it has always worked well, dipensed from a drip can.
I will bear in mind WD-40.
Regards
Geoff
|
Thread: Hot air and stirling engines |
10/07/2009 14:06:43 |
Thanks for the suggestions about Stirling engines.
I will try running the kit built one for a while from one of my Stuart engines running on air from my compressor. That should look suitably Heath Robinson!
Regards
Geoff
|
08/07/2009 15:22:23 |
I built two Stirling engines, one from scratch and one from a pre-machined kit.
Neither works!
The kit one runs a little longer when fired up, as opposed to being spun with a finger, but I can't work out where the problem is.
Regards
Geoff
|
Thread: New Subscription Freebies |
28/06/2009 23:22:30 |
I bought some old ME magazines at Doncaster market, dating from 1960/61.
Very interesting, with adverts for cigarettes, hacksaw blades and articles for quite a lot of ship models.
Regards
Geoff
|
Thread: Propane gas burners |
28/06/2009 14:48:58 |
Paul,
The answer lies in the jet size, I think. The burner itself is just a flame diffuser.
Try a propane gas supplier, or website. Different gases use different jet sizes.
There is also the question of how much air to mix with the gas.
The Stuart catalogue lists gas jets and burners, but for a butane/propane mix only.
Regards
Geoff
|
Thread: Material Suppliers |
11/06/2009 16:03:46 |
Ian Hart,
I have obtained brass and aluminium from a couple of non-ferrous scrapyards in Attercliffe, Sheffield. I can't remember their names, but the Yellow Pages should show them.
Regards
Geoff
Edited By Geoff Theasby on 11/06/2009 16:04:11 |
Thread: First Project |
11/06/2009 16:00:02 |
I also am new to ME, having bought a Unimat 3 from eBay a couple of years ago, and slowly built up a workshop and accessories.
I bought s/h a Staurt beam engine, and am building a governor for it from the raw materials as supplied by Stuart. I am learning fast, with a few false starts and mistakes.
I then intend to build a pair of dividers and a vertical slide from scratch.
I make my own Antex soldering iron bits from copper rod.
This is great fun!
Regards
Geoff
|
Thread: hot air fan |
05/06/2009 01:11:01 |
I have built two hot air engines, one from old tin cans from the internet, and one from a machined kit. Neither worked.
I know that friction has to be kept to an absolute minimum, and that good balance is important. I will keep trying.
I have seen a Ky-Ko fan operating at the Clumber Park steam fair. I KNOW it can be done! Blame my ham-fistedness.
Regards
Geoff
|
Thread: Granite Surface plates |
04/06/2009 16:16:52 |
I have a piece of marble intended for a kitchen worktop. It is too big to use as a surface plate, how can I cut it down to, say, about 1 foot square. It is about three quarters of an inch thick.
I have tried cutting along a line with series of cuts from a cold chisel, but although bits chip off, it shows no sign of breaking.
The easy way is to buy a trivet from Tesco, as mentioned above, but I hate to see a bit of useful material go to waste.
Regards
Geoff
|
Thread: Shims for packing up cutting tools |
04/06/2009 14:27:13 |
I, too, use an old feeler gauge, plus cut up aluminium beer cans, which are about 3 thou.
I plan to use unetched double sided printed circuit board (from Maplin's, about 62 thou) and unembossed portions of used credit cards (about 32 thou)
Regards
Geoff
|
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