Member postings for ega

I dowelled my saddle gib some years ago but this was done as part of a conversion to "wide guide" inspired by Jack Radford's article in ME so I can't be sure that it improved the motion of the saddle; I would expect it to have done so for the reasons given by GHT.

The larger head is also likely to be more rigid.

Be grateful that you are not having to use the dreadful plastic thing that Myfords used to sell!

I must check my oil level!

I made a small mod to the belt cover on my unit which allows me to apply a gentle push to the machine when needed (I have to take care not to attempt to lift the machine by the new handle):

My QSM gearbox and motor do heat up under prolonged use but not so much as to cause me concern. I only ever use the machine in horizontal mode and I wonder whether you are running yours with the spindle vertical which might well make a difference.

I think the motor is continuous rated but perhaps not for the extended running that CNC may involve.

I have the paperwork that came with it and will check to see if anything is said about overheating.

See also:

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=142863

Edited By ega on 21/07/2019 17:30:19

ChrisB:

Thanks for the link. You seem to have an impressive number of MEs per head of population!

Malta has not always been an ME desert; David Urwick of Metal Master fame lived there some years ago.

Does anyone know of a UK equivalent, preferably one that could be incorporated in the lead?

Plus 1 for the NVR.

The more recent machines have a soft start feature which is a significant advantage on a big angle grinder. A brake on switch off would also be a good idea.

My grinders are fitted with a short lead with connector for fitting to an extension lead which makes it possible to disconnect the grinder when changing discs etc without necessarily having to get to the socket outlet.

I am surprised that no one has mentioned the generally excellent PR88.

Glad to help and to know who the "we" are!

Although I have a shop-made equivalent of the Myford conversion set, I mostly just "play tunes" on the stud gear in the way that has been frequently mentioned here. Brian Wood's book is recommended on this topic.

Is it just a matter of packing out the new quadrant?

Edited By ega on 16/07/2019 16:47:46

At first sight I thought the faceplate could be from GHT's UPT.

Are you slitting your Quorn bores or installing split cotters?

If I were doing it again I would definitely do the latter.

Michael Gilligan:

An earlier development in fastening technology was the tapered thread wood screw which I believe was due to GKN or, perhaps, just N.

and, respectfully, told us how he solved his problem so that others might benefit.

Michael Gilligan:

Thanks for the link and the thumbs up. It's good to know that my recollection was on the right lines.

The linked article mentions colour coding, an excellent idea in the circumstances particularly for bits with tiny markings. I think that Wera used to put a coloured ring on their bits.

Couldn't that wrench have been mounted on a lathe's cross slide for boring?

I suspect most shop-made lathes have been the result of both lathe and mill.

I got my Kreg outfit from Axminster before they went over to the ujk brand. The Kreg-supplied screws seem to be Robertson and drive very well as long as axial alignment is maintained. The ujk equivalent is T20 where the connection between driver and screw head is perhaps not quite so positive.

When Pozidriv came in I think the idea was that it could be driven with a Phillips driver but not the other way round which may be the answer to the OP's question.

A character in Victoria Wood's classic sitcom, dinner ladies, was asked if he had any real regrets about his life and replied that he blamed himself for failing to appreciate the importance of the cross point screwdriver!

Plus 1!

I live in hope that those who have NDIY will see the point of posting a public profile with some general indication of their whereabouts.