Member postings for ega

I would tack them, check, adjust as necessary and then finish weld.

The Quick Step Mill or device with similar function will do some kinds of ornamental turning. The maker John Payne used to demonstrate this at exhibitions.

I recall reading that Ettore Bugatti, who was as much artist as engineer, was in the habit of inspecting the jaws of his workers vices and firing anyone with file marks on them.

This seems entirely credible. However, in Scott Landis' "The Workbench Book" the author (who apparently visited the Record factory) states that the woodworking vice handles were cold-forged at both ends.

Does this suggest the use of different steel for woodworking vice handles and that metal workers are more likely to abuse their tools?!

Edited By ega on 14/11/2019 11:56:40

This is perfectly possible:

My photo shows a standard 20mm 1/4" shank bit extended by boring out a length of 1/2" PGMS or silver steel and fixing with high strength Loctite. Apart from the extra length, this gives greater rigidity.

In deference to safety concerns, I would not do this if a suitable bit were readily available. Thus far, the extended bit has only been used to enlarge holes in 36mm thick MDF ie drilling.

Plus one for SOD's endorsement; but some are classics and some perhaps less relevant today. My list of favourites would include one or more of Tubal Cain's titles, Martin Cleeve and Ivan Law.

No doubt some of the more recent titles are in the process of becoming "national treasures".

It would be interesting to know what the best sellers are.

Mark B:

Thanks for your reply.

I am no programmer and controllers are some way above my head. I am however under the impression that any number of divisions is possible with the HDA, using the micro attachment where the division plates alone won't do the job.

One of the first GHT items I made and has had considerable use.

Can you elaborate on your ideas for using it with a stepper motor, etc?

Emgee:

That looks like the Mk 1 wheelhead and I notice the knurled clamp screws; is this so you can quickly swap out the spindle?

GHT covers this point in his Manual and is well worth reading generally on the subject of boring.

Reminds me that one of the complaints about the Far Eastern machines was that the factory left large quantities of moulding sand in the column!

"Bull's Foot, or Box Bottoming File", according to Britten, "for filing sinks and other depressed surfaces".

My two shop-made ER chucks for use on the Myford are long enough to allow the tool to come right up to the collet without the saddle overhanging the bed.

Michael G:

Thank you. "simple.wikipedia" sounded just the thing for me until I saw the warning at the head of the entry!

I did look at it and noted the distinction between the effect of cross sectional shape and size as opposed to the material, a point made above.

The Barker bar bed lathe comes to mind; according to lathes.co.uk it "employed three steel bars arranged so as to provide a stiff "box-section" mounting for the carriage" The design was the subject of a provisional patent.

Does anyone know if there is some particular "magic" about a multi-column arrangement?

I seem to remember a two column toolpost design which claimed to be relatively very stiff. Unfortunately, I haven't the maths or physics to see why this might be so.

Thank you. It seems that they dropped the no 7 between 50th and 100th anniversary editions.

Thanks. I was looking at the interesting website entry.

Checking in my Starrett catalogue, I could not see this "gage". The only one listed there with 26 leaves is the no 475 covering 3 1/2 to 32 TPI.

I see that Hemingway Kits have "L W Sparey"; L H is, of course, the author of the excellent "The Amateur's Lathe". Were there two and, if so, were they related?

There is also an interesting Wiki about Hiduminium, another proprietary name. My first proper bike had brakes made of this.