Member postings for ChrisH

I think between you, John (Journeyman) and Dave (SillyOldDuffer), you have answered my query. It would appear that the grub screws need to be adjusted to take out all play before the capscrews are locked solid on the wee plate underneath the RT and then hopefully the RT will run true. I hope for some shed time tomorrow - I will investigate, but thank you to you both for your comments they have helped me, and apologies to Iain if I hijacked his thread a little!

Chris

Iain and Dave - I too have a Warco HV6 RT. A quick query.

If your table is securely mounted on the mill either horizontally or vertically, and the two RT table clamps are left slack, do your tables rock up and down, or side to side, as the case may be? Or is there little discernible play? (What is normal, what should one expect?)

I ask as mine does, (was wondering what I could do about it), it's worse - or more noticeable - when mounted vertically as in Iain's OP as gravity then only aggrevates the situation, and wondered also if that could be affecting the 'run out' problem? When I tighten the clamps things firm up, how much does it make it better I am not sure, not done the detailed checks yet, but there are times when you need to rotate the table when you are milling the job, not much use if it then wobbles about a bit, defeats the object somewhat.

Chris

I now seem to have found another checking/fixing task to do in the shed involving a mill and a rotary table........

One Christmas my wife reported on Christmas Eve the local Sainsburys had a pallet of bags of King Edward potatoes, all going for FREE as they hadn't sold them and the sell by date would expire Christmas Day when they would be closed so they would be no good to sell on Boxing Day - like how ridiculous can you get, how long do you/can you normally keep potatoes?

Needless to say we managed to get a couple of bags as they were all flying out the door.............

Chris

Recently I have also had 2 scams pretending to be from Paypal regarding a payment I knew I hadn't made and today I received a scam pretending to be from HMRC saying I had a tax refund. In each case by looking at the actual email address behind the name - very easy to do on a Mac in the Mail app, not sure about Windows - it was fairly obvious that the email did not come from where it wanted you to think it did.

If in doubt on an email, like Neil intimated, check the address first off!

Chris

Edited By ChrisH on 28/03/2017 19:03:57

Trouble is - the beer 'evaporates' during a cruise on a hot day I find, which reduces the ballast weight.

Sorry for the delay in response - have been "laid low" for a couple of days, but thanks for all the replies.

Neil many thanks for your reply, that was precisely the answer I was hoping for!

Chris

I have to do a bit of silver soldering and don't have any citric acid to do the pre and post cleaning.

However, I do have some kettle descaler whose main ingredient is formic acid - if I remember the label correctly. So I was thinking of using a dollop of that with some very hot water and cleaning the parts in that.

Will that be OK?

Chris

My shed - converted outhouse/outside khazi/and bread oven place - is 2.5 x 3.7m, or 8ft 2ins x 12ft 1ins in real money.

I have a Weiler 280 lathe, a Warco Economy mill/drill, bench grinder, belt sander, metal bandsaw that lives under the workbench, a 1m wide shelving unit stuffed with stuff, usual collection of power and hand tools on shelves under workbench, 2 small sinks (one handwash one brewing), a wee air compressor that also lives under the workbench, and a brew store and 'fermentation locker' to brew 40 pints bitter at a time plus shelf to site finished beer barrel, an old MMA welder, a dehumidifier and an old French small wood burner stove to keep me warm.

Metal bandsaw worth it's weight in gold (hate hacksawing), roof is well insulated, walls are 2ft thick mud and stone walls rendered on the inside (hanging stuff off them is a nightmare) so not bad insulated, window double glazed, can get cosy in there, the Little People like it there, always nicking - sorry "borrowing" - my stuff, sometimes I even get it back, don't know what they're building, sometimes I get to see the floor (red painted concrete) and sometimes I get to see the bench (dark brown wood thingy), rarely get to see both together.

My shed is far too small, can't play my music loud enough (neighbours), but keeps me sane, panders to my engineering past and keeps me out the pub, and if it were bigger I would always fill it. Just don't get inside it enough, however hard I work at getting Exit Visa's from Senior Management

Chris

Edited By ChrisH on 15/02/2017 20:37:32

Edited By ChrisH on 15/02/2017 20:39:00

MalcB - thanks for those figures, from them I may have been going a tad, not much, faster.

The tools are as sharp (and honed) as I can get with only a very small radius and checked it wasn't rubbing. It cut the first half inch no probs then seemed to just start to deflect the tool away.

David and Co on hard spots - yes I was wondering if I had a lump with a hard spot and found your comments very interesting. I was using EN24T because that's what the plans specified - it's a sleeve in a sleeve valve engine - but had pondered on EN16 instead. If the indexible bit doesn't work I have one more length and if that screws up I will try either EN16 or 19.

Many thanks for all the replies - always highly valued.

Chris

Machining basically a cylinder in EN24T. Have been using a HSS tool for turning the outside which went OK . However, come the bore and it's a different story. Bored it out to 1/2 inch diameter then attempted to bore it out to just over 3/4 inch diameter using a HSS boring bar and the bore has 'humped' in the middle - I've tried boring from both ends. It seems as if the boring bar is just deflecting instead of cutting, despite being sharp using the same depth of cuts and speeds as usual. I have come to the conclusion that perhaps the material has work hardened. Or perhaps it just has a hard lump in the middle!

So what speeds should I be using for EN24T both for rotating and feed using HSS tools and again if using and indexible tip tool?

Chris

Edited By ChrisH on 12/02/2017 19:06:37

I did wonder if it might be e-bay - many thanks for that Jason

Jason - Mr Sieg's gear cutters - what supplier/s stocks these?

Chris

Simon. When I machined up a backplate for a new 4 jaw chuck I first made a dummy spigot test piece of the lathe nose. Luckily, I had a collet chuck which screws on the lathe nose to test the test piece before I called it done. Then I held the new backplate in the old 3 jaw and machined the back of the backplate, bored it and screwed threaded it to suit the test piece. Then I reversed the backplate and screwed it direct onto the lathe nose to machine up the mating flange complete, which ensured concentricity with the lathe nose. I machined up t'other end of the test piece to accept a M2 morse taper arbor, loctited it into the test piece, and used that in the rotary table to set up the backplate to drill the mounting holes. All I can say is the method worked well for me, and it has left me with a handy stub piece for the rotary table so as I can now transfer chucks from the lathe to the mill and back again without disturbing the work or loosing concentricity.

HTPs.

Chris

Edited By ChrisH on 08/02/2017 13:43:46

Mark - £40 - I wish. Here in South Somerset near Yeovil it's £53.50 for the year this year from March, or £100 for 2 years. Goes up every year. But it saves going to the local tip which costs £2 just to get in each visit in Crewkerne, rip off, charge brought in because of the 'savage cuts' or so they claim, they wanted to close the tip before we protested. Who are the customers?

So am I

H Malc,

TEC have told me the continuous slow speed for their motors on VFD is 25Hz, this is for 24/7 running, so lower than that you have to watch out for the motor not getting enough cooling ai and overheating.

That said, on my lathe with similar set up and a 2kw motor I have run at 16hz no worries during a fairly long screw cutting session, the motor stayed cool. Just something to watch out for. If it gets to be a problem fit an aux. fan blowing air over the motor!

Chris

Hi Malc - I am making the assumption (always unwise!) that your new set-up does not involve changing pulleys to achieve the total speed range and that the speed range is controlled totally by the VFD. With the highest speed aimed at 2600/2700rpm or even more, what is the lowest speed you can run at?

Chris

In a similar vein you stop off the end of a pipe or gutter with a stopend, rather than an end stop, which is what I would ask for at the plumbers merchants before I was 'educated'.

Thanks Rod, have sent you a PM.

Chris

Does anyone have a link to a cam calculation programme for calculating the cam profiles for an I.C. engine? Thinking, design your own engine here.

The modelenginenews website used to have a programme, but it does not seem to be working since we turned the New Year.

Chris