Here is a list of all the postings JasonB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Posting Photos |
06/09/2009 07:41:56 |
You can also add a link to any photos that are held on a web hosting site such as Photobucket if you don't want to load them all onto this site.
Not sure if you can actually use the IMG codes to get the pic to show in your post though, if the pic below comes out then you can
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Fowler%20A7/Cylinder1.jpg[/IMG]
Jason
Edit looks like you have to put it in an ME album first, bit of a pain ![]() Edited By JasonB on 06/09/2009 07:43:05 |
Thread: Hobbymat Lathe |
05/09/2009 20:54:49 |
Yes there is a connection you can see from the first sentence
E-bays a good as place as any to look, also Homeworkshop
Jason |
Thread: Engine building without power tools |
05/09/2009 18:51:32 |
Jason
Edited By JasonB on 05/09/2009 18:55:19 Edited By JasonB on 05/09/2009 18:59:07 |
Thread: Trevithick's Dredger - Part 8 - where is it? |
05/09/2009 13:52:46 |
Just been looking through my copies
The link to part 13 is actually part 14.
Part 13 is missing altogether and this is the one that has the cross head guides (columns & Stays fig33) that were missed earlier. Thats why I couldn't see it
Jason Edited By JasonB on 05/09/2009 13:53:08 |
05/09/2009 07:43:46 |
And while you are at it the drawing for the cross head guides was missed from the original articles and published at a later date. Could this also be added for anyone thinking of building this model. I've got it on the todo list but will up it from 1:16 to 1:12th scale.
Jason |
Thread: 1.1/2" Allchin |
31/08/2009 20:09:05 |
If you read the text where it describes the spline cutting then the spigot at the end of the shaft should be 3/8 so it would seem that the bore for the brake drum is not 7/16.
But then again the sentence before gives the shaft at 9/16" dia
![]() Jason Edited By JasonB on 31/08/2009 20:09:40 |
Thread: Northumbrian Riveting |
27/08/2009 18:45:22 |
The CSK ones are easy, having not long ago finished the strakes on my 2" Fowler - 288 rivits just for the strakes. Need to rivit my tender up soon, its all complete ready to go.
Jason Edited By JasonB on 27/08/2009 18:48:30 |
27/08/2009 17:35:31 |
I would also use the second method, insert a snap head rivit from the inside face and place the head of the rivit into a rivit snap held in your vice. Then "set" the rivit with a home made hollow punch or if you have a rivit set with both hole & half round recess use that. The reason to "set" the rivit is to make sure the two plates are close together.
Then you can start to pein over the end of the rivit to fill the CSK hole with a ball pein hammer trying not to hit the surrounding metal. Then file any excess off flush and you should not be able to see where the rivit fills the hole.
Best to have a practice with a few rivits in a bit of scrap first.
Jason |
Thread: old mags |
23/08/2009 12:37:01 |
E-bay is a good source, you can usually get a whole Volume for about £6.00, buying individual mags is a bit more costly. Just search e-bay for "model engineer"
The My hobby store link will also take you to back issues but not sure if they go back that far
Jason |
Thread: Annealing copper tube. |
22/08/2009 12:53:48 |
Heat until it just glows a dark red then allow to cool naturally - no quenching. Best not to do this in bright sunlight as it can be hard to see the beginnings of the red glow.
Jason |
Thread: Metal filler? |
20/08/2009 17:20:10 |
Isopon make an epoxy filler called "Plastic Metal" which is a bit like car body filler, and Unibond do one called "repair metal"
If it's going to be subject to ant high temps then JB Weld is another epoxy but a little runnier, you can pick up a small pack on e-bay for about £5 inc postage
Both can be machined when set
Jason Edited By JasonB on 20/08/2009 17:20:34 |
Thread: Charlie - A southern Railway Q1 locomotive in 3 1/2in. gauge |
18/08/2009 16:39:09 |
Jason Edited By JasonB on 18/08/2009 16:41:23 |
Thread: Metric vs Imperial - Practical or Traditional? |
18/08/2009 07:41:18 |
The biggest metric/imperial annomoly in teh building trade is that plasterboard comes in 1200x2400 sheets and ply in 1220x2440 sheets so if you set your joists to suit teh plasterboard you have to trim 20mm off each sheet of ply
![]() Jason
PS Paul, the BA series of threads is actually metric. And a very logivcal reason to use inches on a lathe is that 75% plus of lathes are graduated in imperial
|
17/08/2009 16:44:42 |
"As a point of interest try dividing a metric measurement by three. ---- now you see why imperial is best. "
you probably would not as 1:3 is not a ISO scale. You would use 1:2, 1:5, 1:10, 1:20, 1:50, etc
And even at 4" scale or 4inch to the foot one inch is not an easy size to get at using fractional inches so you have to compromise with 5/16 or 3/8 if you want to use stock material sizes
Jason |
17/08/2009 07:33:02 |
-Practicality - I don't think it is any harder or easier to work in metric or imperial but do prefer imperial dims in decimals. Its obviously more practical to work in what your machines are callibrated in but with the increased use of DROs this is not a problem.
-USA - Most of the steam related models do not originate in teh US so its not that but some IC models do
- People- Most published designs date back several decades so are in imperial also designs being published now are by people who were bought up on imperial.
ME suppliers tend to stock imperial materials and tooling as thats whats in demand but as imperial materials become harder to obtain I'm sure it will shift over to metric in time.
Jason |
Thread: album navigation |
15/08/2009 18:44:12 |
If you use the back button after viewing an album with several pictures you will have to go back through them all, an up arrow will be a quicker way back to the main list
Jason |
Thread: Help with piston rings. |
13/08/2009 21:08:36 |
1/8x1/8 sounds like the groove should be filled with graphite yarn or ptfe which would be likely as the cylinder is GM so you should not need to worry about expansion.
If it were CI rings then the groove would not be as deep more like .070x.050 for each ring
Jason |
Thread: warco vs lathe |
13/08/2009 17:29:00 |
It can't be that number, either its a GH (geared head) or VS (Variable Speed) either way the manuals are pants if the one that came with my 280V-F are anything to go by.
These lathes are all quite similar and I have heard people say that Grizzly in the USA have better manuals that can be downloaded.
Jason |
Thread: Northumbrian Footplate mounting. |
13/08/2009 07:23:47 |
See here for the revised drawing |
Thread: Northumbrian Frames are wrong! |
13/08/2009 07:22:38 |
See here for the revised drawing |
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