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Member postings for JasonB

Here is a list of all the postings JasonB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Northumbrian GLR
27/10/2009 17:39:10
I see that GLR now has a list of parts and castings for this loco
 
No Connection etc
 
Jason
Thread: Information sought
26/10/2009 17:43:15
I think this is the Swiss company that actually produce the castings and mentions the designers name. Change the language to english and then click "steam engines"
 
 
And this is another UK supplier of some of their products.
 
 
Jason

Edited By JasonB on 26/10/2009 17:45:30

Thread: Cotswold Heritage Stothert and Pitt
23/10/2009 16:57:26
Couple of people building them on this forum including one at a larger 1/6th scale. Also links to some photos of the original engine its based on.
 
Look just under the picture of the engine in James's link and it tells you what issues of EIM cover the build.
 
Jason

Edited By JasonB on 23/10/2009 16:58:41

Edited By JasonB on 23/10/2009 16:59:28

Thread: Latest Digital editions of ME/MEW
22/10/2009 07:22:45
4363 only arrived on my door mat yesterday and is dated 23rd Oct - 5th Nov so its hardly a back issue yet
 
Jason
Thread: Lathe Backgear
21/10/2009 07:30:01
I've also got the square thread for my brake comming up, not decided whether to make a tap or small internal threading tool for the nut. Its 1/4" 16tpi
 
Jason
20/10/2009 18:06:37
Meyrick, have you not tried using a tailstock die holder under power. I always use to turn it by hand but now I have a lathe that goes down to 40rpm its easy.
 
The main safety points to bear in mind are:
 
Remove the handle so it won't take your thumb off
Wind in any screws below the body if like mine its double ended
Wind the toolpost well back out the way.
 
You just grip the body of the die holder, start the lathe and slide the holder towards the work, as soon as you reach a sholder the holder will rotate in your hand or just loosen your grip when the length of thread is what you want.
 
Either wind out by hand or flick the lathe into reverse.
 
This is OK for threads upto about 1/4" any more and its hard to grip plus you want to wind back the die to break the chip. A knurled holder is on the todo list.
 
Jason
 
Jason
Thread: Help
19/10/2009 07:29:47
The Fowler I'm doing is not one of hainings designs but you could do most 2" engines on a 5" lathe, remember the 3 1/2" Myford that most things were designed for can swing 10" in the gap. Thats based on not having to machine wheel rims or the drum on a ploughing engine
 
You also have to watch height over crossslide if doing any between cts boring/flycutting.
 
Jason
18/10/2009 21:48:23
Personally I would go with two machines, though I made the minnie in my avitar with just a lathe and did the milling using a vertical slide but not practical in the bigger sizes
 
J
Thread: What am I doing wrong???
18/10/2009 21:29:20
Most dies have a slight lead taper, this is on the side with the size engraved on it, make sure byou have this side facing the work.
 
Your diestock will have 3 screws, place the die in the stock and tighten the middle one until it just starts to expand the die, then just wind the othe two in until they touch the die. You can then  start threading. Turn the die one full turn forwards and half back and so on to break the chip off (not really needed with brass)
 
Now try a nut on the thread, if its too big slacken the middle screw & tighten the outer ones to close the die and cut again, repeat until you get a good fit.
 
A small chamfer on the end of the rod will help the die to start
 
Jason
 
PS you are not trying to thread 1/8" bar by mistake ?

Edited By JasonB on 18/10/2009 21:31:00

Thread: Lathe Backgear
18/10/2009 20:17:37
You want a nice slow speed for screwcutting and knurling also when you want to machine large diameters, a 9" cast iron flywheel can start to chatter if the speed goes up too high
 
On a geared head lathe having a back gear is no advantage over a slower gear in the main gearbox. Where a backgear comes into its own is on belt drive lathes where it allows the user to quickly select a slower gear with out the hastle of belt changing
 
Also be aware that the variable speed lathes start to loose torque when machining large diameters at slow speed.
 
Jason

Edited By JasonB on 18/10/2009 20:30:37

Thread: Little Samson traction engines
18/10/2009 20:11:38
As the 3" LS is not much bigger than a large 2" they can suffer slightly on long grass or rutted ground. A larger engine is also easier to manage the fire.
 
Why not ask on Traction Talk Forum, both Edward(littlesamson) and Dave(daveko974) who wrote the books "a dream comes true" are regular posters there. And a look back through the posts will show the size issue has been covered several times
 
 
Jason
Thread: Help
18/10/2009 20:07:48
If you are going to put rubbers on the cast wheels rather than strakes then only the bore and face of the hub needs machining and can be done on a mill, but the combi does not really have a big enough table. Rubber can be vulcanised straignt to the cast outer face.
 
The table is also a bit small for mounting a rotary table and centre for machining things like the conrod
 
Quill travel is not likely to be long enough for flycutting teh chinney saddle or cylinder base, if you try to do it with a between centres bar there may not be enough travel between centres.
 
Why not ask on Traction Talk Forum, bothe Edward(littlesamson) and Dave(daveko974) who wrote the books "a dream comes true" are regular posters there.
 
 
Jason
Thread: Northumbrian bits and pieces
12/10/2009 19:49:09
GLR do Southern Maid
 
It would be good to have a complete list of castings required as this would save postage and delivery times if builders are having to order a few castings each month when the next article is published
 
Jason

Edited By JasonB on 12/10/2009 19:51:12

Thread: Steering Wheel
08/10/2009 19:17:00
I didn't bother looking in blackgates as you said you had tried the usual places and I machined mine from solid. Yes its listed in Blackgates catalogue as a lost wax casting for about £6.00
 
Jason
08/10/2009 16:32:17
I don't think castings were available for it, machine from solid or fabricate. Or maybe try a brake handwheel from a larger engine, something like the 2" Burrell Gold Medal Tractor that MJ Eng do.
 
Jason
Thread: Please hellp
07/10/2009 18:34:45
From the Lathes.co.uk site, may be of help
 
"Unfortunately the assembly does contain a weak point: the 3-step aluminium pulley is only pressed onto the sleeve - and it is not unknown for it to become loose and rotate. However, if the assembly is stripped, cleaned and the pulley secured onto the sleeve with a slight smear of low-strength Loctite all will be well.
"
 
Jason
Thread: Northumbrian bits and pieces
28/09/2009 19:34:11
I think you can get them from GLR, they certainly sell the Rainhill castings
 
Jason
 
Thread: graphite year stuffing
23/09/2009 20:34:19
MJ Engineering had some on their stand last week and I think Bruce engineering (polymodel) do it as well
 
Just as easy to take a length of plumbers tape fold it over in half and in half again then twist the four strands together
 
Jason
Thread: Filing Machine
23/09/2009 20:30:41
Hemmingway do one that is powered by a lathe but you should be able to fit a separate motor
 
Jason
Thread: graphite year stuffing
23/09/2009 14:51:36
Would depend slightly on the gap and size of your yarn. The yarn will pack down as the gland is tightened, about 3 winds of yarn would be a good starting point. You want to fill the void at the end of the gland plus a bit more ie you don't want the gland bottoming out.
 
If the gap on the valve rod is small you can unravel the yarn and just use one strand
 
Jason
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