Member postings for JasonB

For flattening the tops of material a 16mm is probably as large as you want to go as it becomes less economic to pay more for larger cutters and just wear the end away. For side cutting then there is little to be gained in going up to a larger cutter as you won't gain rigidity considering the rest of the set up and the need to run the larger cutters slower will take the motor out of it's power band unless you go with solid carbide milling cutters.

Fly cutters will work but do need to be kept sharp they are also relatively slow to remove metal as you only get one cut per rev where you will get more with fluted cutters. They can also be a bit harsh on the drive train as unlike with a milling cutter you will get long periods of no tool engagement which can "knock" as the single cutter comes round each time. Something like these, the middle size 25mm head, swinging about 35-40mm dia would do

We have a few members here who use the two insert 25mm insert mill on their X2 size machines, if you do go down that route then I would suggest using the APKT inserts meant for non ferrous metal on all materials as they are sharper and put less strain on the machine. They won't cover quite such a large area as a flycutter but with twice a smany cutting edges and being able to run higher spindle speeds due to carbide will make quicker work of a job.

Both the flycutter and the insert cutter you would not want to take off more than 0.5mm per pass.

Remember that if the tram is out then the larger the diameter cutter the greater the chance of getting a concave surface so you really critical parts it can be better to make multiple passes with a sharp small 3 or 4 flute cutter of say 6mm dia

Edited By JasonB on 11/09/2023 07:04:36

Have a word with Graham Corry of Alyn Foundry, he built a 1/4 scale one. Best to ask on Alyn's Facebook page, you will need to join.

Fz x flute x rpm

0.027 x 3 x 1000 = 81mm/min for the slot (YG give 1100rpm)

0.045 x 3 x 1000 = 135mm/min for the side cut (GY give 1100rpm)

Generally on the manual machine I've just go a feel for the speed and how fast to turn the handle and generally adjust how fast I'm turning if it does not sound right.

On the CNC I've got used to what works with the cutters I typically use and may just alter the feed if needed when doing the CAM, if it's a finish cut I'll probably slow it down a bit same if very deep or lots of tight internal corners to reduce the risk of chatter.

That is a variable that often depends on the type of cut and how much of the cutting edges are being used.

If cutting a slot where the whole width of the cutter is being used then you would probably want a lower Fz than if using the side of the cutter to profile an edge.

Some makers give optimum Fz figures for their cutters so you may find for a slot of 0.5D depth the Fz is 0.027mm but for side cutting at 1.5D height and 0.1D stepover the Fz would be 0.045mm on low carbon steel (YG-1 figures for similar spec cutter)

You will need to adjust it to suit a hobby machine, start with say half that and see how the cut sounds and what the chips look like

Edited By JasonB on 10/09/2023 10:20:57

Sorry Dave but the M and the G relate to the tolerance that the insert is made to.

Your typical **M* insert will be the moulded gold coloured ones with chipbreaker and "blunt" to the touch

Your Typical **G* insert will have been ground and or polished to get the Tolerance which also results in a sharper cutting edge

As for the T at teh end then that is what indicates if there is a chipbreaker and also how the insert is held.

Typical ***T insert has a has a 40-60deg csk hole and is single sided WITH CHIPBREAKER

Typical triangular Insert you may find on an indexable mill TPUN is neutral or flat topped with no chipbreaker

Edited By JasonB on 10/09/2023 10:11:41

My computer auto translated this when I approved it this morning, for those that can't translate

"Good morning everyone, I'm a new member and I'm inexperienced on the subject. I'm self-taught. I have recently come into possession of a mashtroy lathe (warco 220) I'm trying to restore it, but I don't have an instruction booklet, I saw that there are some games in the brass nuts, and I don't know the pitch of the worm. Can anyone in the group help me? Information, drawings, etc. I would be very grateful, thank you"

There are often "workshop" type articles in ME, makes a change from all the Loco stuff.

Text says Cloough42 sells the controller not the stepper or power supply so it's really upto you to sort the hardware(stepper) to be upto the job.

His Shop

Follow the links to the Youtube videos to see what you get and what you provide

Edited By JasonB on 09/09/2023 18:12:06

That's Anthony Mount's design for James Booth's Rectilinear Engine. Castings and drawings available from Polly/Bruce.

It was also covered in EiM many moons ago and was the first engine of many that Anthony has now done.

Can be built from scratch in which case a better buy than the drawing is his book "Historic Engines Worth Modelling " Vol 1 which ha sthe drawings and Text from the original EiM series

Edited By JasonB on 09/09/2023 13:11:59

My figures of 0.098" give approx 5% compression of the nominal 0.103" section ring I suggested. That is based on the Arnold Throp calculations that can be found in Model Engineer's Handbook and paper versions of Reeves catalogue.

The rods tend to be stainless to prevent rusting and stainless is what is suppled in the kits so that would be best. If you go for mild steel then PGMM (precision ground mild steel) would be better than just bright mild steel.

If you do want to use an o ring then a BS113 would be the right size. Groove 0.125" wide and 0.098" deep

Just be careful when tapping with the SX2P as unlike it's larger cousins the SX2.7,3 & 4 which have a specific tapping function with it's own settings on the board to control the amount of current drawn the SX2P does not have that protection so going too hard may see some smoke from where you don't want it. Keep speed reasonably low and about M6 max size.

Yes if it's threaded and has not got a grub screw or some other way to lock it

Reverse is handy for machine tapping, back spot facing or if you don't want to grind a special tool when using a boring head to do external work to name but a few

I would have thought you could pick up a feed for the tacho from the socket that the mill has for the sieg display.

Be careful as once you get a decent grip on the work it will be the vice that starts revolving. Ideally clamp it down or failing that have the end of the screw handle facing away from you and to the left of the drill column so that if it does rotate the column should act as a stop.

Ah, it's only when you get down to less two you need to worry

Edited By JasonB on 06/09/2023 13:06:02

So is that the Approx 1m dia or the 500mm (no tolerance) radius for this accurate job

DRO Is OK if you have a mill but the OP says he only has a Myford and he also says he does not want to hand finish.

Ditto CNC which would breeze through a simple part but again he does not have one.

But still no consensus on what radius/diameter is wanted.

So what is it, 1m OD (500mm Radius) or the 39" (990.6mm) Radius or 1m radius (1000mm)