Member postings for Russell Eberhardt

That seems to be the norm in the far east, unlike western factories that are run by accountants

Russell

Oh deer

Russell

How tight is the tread on the closing nut/body?

It needs some slack otherwise any out of true on the thread can pull the collet out of alignment.

Russell

Yes but for a one off it may be more economical to buy the pinion ready cut from Ian Cobb.

Russell

These people sell Thorntons wheel and pinion cutters **LINK**

http://www.clock-works.clara.net/index.html

Not cheap but probably cheaper than bergeon.

Russell.

Yes, if you are using an indexable insert you will need to use one of the highly polished inserts that are intended for aluminium, they have a sharper cutting edge. The general purpose coated ones have a rounded edge to give them more strength but then need a deep cut to work well. They are also likely to deflect the work somewhat.

Russell

I can't tell you the best way but what I did was turn them held in an ER collet chuck using a very sharp HSS tool. Then polished starting with oiled 400 grit wet and dry and going through the grades down to 2000 grit. Finally used "Micro-Mesh" with water **LINK**

I cut thin strips of the abrasive sheets and glued them to lollipop sticks to help keep the polishing even. By clockmaking tradition the pivots should be burnished but I found that a good polished surface worked fine.

I don't know if you have a collet chuck for your lathe but you do need to ensure good centering.

Russell

Hi Dave

Welcome.

I built the John Parslow skeleton clock as my first clock making project. I finished it in 2013 and it has run well ever since although now it has started gaining about two minutes a week so it must be due for a service.

You can see some pictures taken during the construction in my album. If you have any questions just ask.

Russell

If you are thinking of buying the Arc SC4 lathe, I would budget for the no. 2 starter set to go with it as a good starting point.

Russell

Some time ago the late John Stevenson described an easy method of making single point gear cutters using a tapered cutter to give the required clearance. I can't find the thread at present but it is somewhere on the forum.

Russell

For me 1, 2, and 3 in that order. Perhaps I am a bit of a stick in the mud having first been trained in drafting over 50 years ago.

Russell

Here is a list of sizes for both metric and imperial threads;

**LINK**

https://www.wegertseder.com/download/techdat/t_6441.pdf

Russell

Agreed. I always treat them either as disposable or as a source of materials to make into something useful.

Russell

Most clockmakers stick with Thorntons cutters, expensive but good. I buy mine from Meadows and Passmore and never had a problem. Most clock designs for amateur construction specify cycloidal cutters. You might have difficulty sourcing involute gear cutters in the appropriate MOD.

Russell

Difficult to find shim stock thin enough to correct that sort of error though. His figures seem good enough for me.

Russell

Yes, Atlas 10F. The leadscrew, leadscrew reversing gearbox, and changewheels seem to be missing which will seriously affect the value unless they can be found. I've had one since the 70s. It is like a bigger brother to the Myford 7 series.

Russell

I would agree with you for a mechanical (film) camera, however the most common method of cleaning a pcb after soldering is to use water. So digital cameras are fine with water as long as they don't have any power at the time.

Russell

That would have taken me 5-6 days and then I would have b*****ed it up near the end!

Russell

That's the solid gold version with the diamond bearings!

Russell

I wouldn't use tap water on any electronic product. It contains salts that make it conductive. Distilled water is better as it is an insulator. Following the water a rince in alcohol will help to remove the remaining water then leave open for 24 hours before fitting new batteries.

Russell