Member postings for modeng2000

So I suppose Bernard, these will now be made abroad like a lot of other things these days. Which company is about to stop trading?

Robert, so this is why folk tap the barometer as they pass by watching it settle to the current reading.

A barometer really indicates the pressure when requested by giiving it a tap however the barograph normally sits on its own most of the time so stiction becomes a problem. I have started the modification so hopefully I'll find an improvement. An electronic device is the answer but finding one with a printed chart output is another matter and it would need an electric supply not just a spring.

Thanks for the suggestions to my question.

John

"If you can bear it, strap a buzzer to your barograph! "

This is something I had considered but it would have to be clockwork!!

Joohn,

Yes of course I mean balance wheels, sorry. I have tried to upload a photo but alas failed miserably.

The linkage is very basic, just pins through holes. So I think where a 2.5mm dia brass rod passes through two clearence holes in a pair of uprght posts is possibly where some of the sticking is taking place.

(I did manage to place a picture on the Home Model Engine Machinist site)

John

Brian, it would be fairly easy to make the change and to revert if no improvement.

So I think if it might help I should try. Just wasn't sure it would help.

John

My barograph mechanism has a fair amount of 'stiction' in the pen movement and so I wonder if replacing the simple sleve bearings for point bearings as used for escapement wheels would be worth doing.
I realise that the friction between pen and paper is one source of stiction but feel that the simple holes through the two posts is probably another.

I have small block of steel with many holes drilled to match the range of taps I use. Simple to start the taps, a few turns to establish the initial important threads. Remove the block and continue. Most of my taps are spiral and I can tap almost without looking even down to M2.

Me too!

Don't put your foot down if you haven't got a leg to stand on.

Thanks Andrew.

Joe, I believe it is o/c and will consider paralleling with a conventional resistor for test purposes if this is the case.

Not sure if there is room to leave a wire-ended resistor in place when reassembled.

John

The resistor is approx 3mm long, value 110k

I'm sure it will let go with sufficient heat on both tags.

John

Thanks both for your helpful replies. The pcb is fibreglass so I'll give it a try.

John

I would like to be able to remove a SMD chip resistor. Unfortunately it has been fixed with adhesive and soldered. I assume the adhesive won't soften with heat so what is the best way to approach this?

John

Hello Ketan, I fully understand your position in this question of sourcing mini-lathes. In my case I was prepared to have to make improvements and so was not put off by all the necessary adjustments and modifications needed to make the lathe into a usable machine. However I did not expect to have such a basic fault, thankfully now sorted. My original posting was for advice and I certainly received good advice and I think I detected some anti feeling towards this type of mini-lathe.

As I said, I went into this purchase with my eyes open and so as you rightly say, you get what you pay for. I do wonder if the person who bought my replacement lathe is now one of your customers.

I have purchased form you in the past and no doubt will do do again.

John

Hi Roger, I couldn't have had better service from Vevor, they were really helpful but as expected required proof of the faulty part. The resolution was to send me a replacement lathe, I suspect they do not hold spare parts themselves. I looked into obtaining a new crosslide and this cost around £45 so the obvious thing to do was to buy one to effect the cure.

Feeling guilty accepting a whole new machine I suggested I ought to return the secomd lathe but was informed I could keep it and use it as I wished. The restocking cost made the return uneconomic for Vevor. I should add the lathe is the cheapest in their range at £380 or thereabouts.

I have made various improvements to the original and now it is quite acceptable.

John

Is the Guardian a pro-cycling newspaper?

Here are a coulpe of links that might be of interest.

http://www.ex-bbc.net/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1412272721

http://www.ex-bbc.net/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1640693430

John

I am very pleased to have a resolution to the faulty saddle problem. The company has recompensed me and now that I have an accurate machine I can perhaps get on with the job that showed up the error.

John

Many thanks Alan C

John

Have received a reply to my videos expressing regret that the machine is not up to standard.

Have been offered a replacement machine and no need to return the old one. I am left wondering what the word machine includes, perhaps just the rep[lacement crosslide machined casting.

Time will tell.

John

Thanks all for the continuing advice.

At this point I'm not going to give details of the make or supplier of this lathe. As I wrote at the begining, it is a low price mini lathe and I expected to have to make adjustments. However there is no adjustment for this fault.

It is fair to give them the chance to provide a solution. If that is not forthcoming then perhaps is the time to identify.

John

The next chapter:- they said they were not able to see the error using the photographs I sent, or so they said!

Now they are asking for a video. I'll go along with this and see what they ask for next.

John