Member postings for David Clark 1

I thought the component had the shank turned integral. Anyway it was only a bar end of steel. Steel is worth *** all nowadays anyway.

Hi Michael They often put up high prices and then drop them. I suspect a gofor lists them and then somone with a bit of common sense sets the correct price. The other reason is they don't have it in stock but want the listing to continue indefinitly so it looks like they sold lots of them.

One could argue that if you turned the shank down it would fit in the centre of the chuck.

Not moving the sector plates fully? Not going in the same direction so backlash is introduced?

I believe the 540 spindle runs on a mixture of oil and paraffin. I don't remember the mix but it could have been 10% paraffin and 90% oil. We did not have to adjust the bearings in 10 years of continuous use and we were working to a tolerance of 6 tenths of a thou measured over 4 components back to back.

I think someone advertises on homeworkshop.org.uk

I would try checking for dry joints on the power supply. These are usually assembled by flow soldering and the temperature is a compromise between small and large components. You can spot a dry joint by the Matt grey color and often a gap around the joint. There may be a fuse on the board as well.

Buy a new tailstock barrel or fit a tailstock lever feed attachment.

You could always use one of the tee slotted sub tables from RDG or similar suppliers. Just cut it in half and it would probably be about the right size. Two people could split the cost and make one each.

You can't just photocopy the articles and sell them or give them away due to copyright restrictions which last for 75 years after the authors death. However, plans copyright only lasts 15 years so you could sell plans as long as they don't have build notes on them. Basically you can redraw any plan over 15 years old and resell them.

As well as for Model Engineer this forum is for Model Engineers Workshop readers, most who don't make models but do general engineering and restoration projects. The thread title says it all, you don't have to read it.

You could also use west fit.com to transfer large files. Just zip them up.

Hi there Depends what you want to do. I used to machine aluminium about 4 feet X 2 feet on a standard Bridgeport mill. Ideally you need to drill and ream or bore a hole to clock the location when you move the plate. I used to keep the plate parallel by pushing it against the main dovetail.

If you want a Tom Senior, go for the light vertical similar to the M1 as regards table size but has a decent vertical head with quill feed. Only drawback is no power feed. And is heavy but easy to strip down for removal if necessary.

There are lots of online calculators online. Need to download them though. Don't work on my iPad.

90 degrees per turn of the crank sounds a lot. Normal dividing heads are usually 40 to 1 giving a 9 degree movement or or ten turns for 90 degrees.

Lock the centre and regrind it in the headstock.

Hi there Aluminium oxide wheel as close to A60K5V as you can get. You could go down to 46 grit but I suggest you don't go finer to 80 grit.

alanstepney.info details some of the errors found in locomotive drawings.

I see there is a book about making a sub machine gun as well. Surely this legislation will tell everyone that it is possible to make or modify a gun? Also the act seems to say modify the replica. Does it say you can't make one by scratch building it?