Member postings for Fulmen

Don't forget to turn it down a bit on the end. The screw tip tend to deform when over-tightening, this is probably what causes them to bind and strip in the end.

My knockoffs are M7x1 as well. I believe it's a "2nd choice" thread, you won't find anything other than 1st choice in normal supply.

Mine are fairly soft, I suspect it's done to prevent people from stripping the threads on the holder. I've worn out several, but they're easy enough to make.

Good luck Carl. I'm confident you'll get it done without injury to man or machine.

Won't argue with that, never seen a heavy load slip on a pallet unless something was seriously wonky. With these weights and materials friction is pretty reliable. But there's also Murphys law. I like to add a couple of sensible wedges, straps or screws just for piece of mind.

I really can't remember. But if you reverse the jack while pulling on the machine you should be safe.

I've moved an A&S Bridgeport a couple of times. Placed on a pallet, used a pallet jack and a winch to pull it onto a twin axle trailer. Not fun but doable back when my back wasn't completely fubar.

Moisture and plant juice isn't the same as seawater. If brazing caused significant corrosion outside of marine applications it would never have become so prevalent.

I love it

Are the black pieces also to be made from brass?

Never used the Carr products, but it appears to be a chemical conversion treatment. The one for steel is most likely regular selenium-based cold blue which work OK but won't be nearly as wear resistant or decorative as a caustic black treatment.
A proper caustic black bath can be made from 3 parts sodium hydroxide and 1 part potassium or sodium nitrate. There should be a thread or two on this somewhere on this forum.

There are several formulations that will produce a brown to black patina on copper alloys, here are a few:

https://davidmbowman.com/patinas/formulas.htm
https://www.sciencecompany.com/Patina-Formulas-for-Brass-Bronze-and-Copper.aspx

Aluminum can be anodized and dyed into almost any color.

Yes and maybe. I haven't tried foil myself, but it's a well known trick among knifesmiths and toolmakers.

And while borax chould work, I've only used boric acid. It has a much lower melting point (170C) meaning you can apply it by sprinkling it over a hot part or rolling/dipping the part in dry powder. Once molten it dehydrates into a viscous glass-like coating that will dissolve in water.

PS: You can make boric acid by acidifying a borax solution with muriatic (hydrochloric).

My guess: It's simply better. High rigidity and low weight will make it more precise and easier to work with. And written off over a few decades it's not really a big investment.

Cheap will be cheap.

9 times out of 10 you can eyeball metric vs imperial, both UN and Witworth use a coarser pitch for a given diameter.

Edited By Fulmen on 29/07/2023 16:14:33

If it's not made in the UK or US, it's metric (99% sure).

I made my replacement from a spare brake hose clip I found in a drawer:

https://www.amazon.com/Empi-98-6685-B-Stainless-Steel-Bug-Bus-Ghia-Squareback/dp/B076DLRNWL

I'm guessing you have the same head as me:

https://eur.vevor.com/dividing-head-c_10129/dividing-plate-dividing-head-4-100mm-for-rotary-tables-in-model-hv-3-4-5-6-p_010947578525

I assume you have this mill and are looking for replacements?

This guide should help:

https://littlemachineshop.com/info/insert_charts.php

1. First letter is shape (S for square)
2. Relief angle, you need to measure that (or choose another one more to your liking).
3. Tolerances, should be irrelevant for our needs. Pick the cheapest one.
4. Mounting, looks to be an N (no hole or breaker)
5. Size, again something you need to measure (I'm guessing 12 or 15)
6. Thickness, same (04 0r 06?)
7. Nose radius, same (or pick your own, perhaps 04 for fine cuts and 08 for rougher work?)

That's it! Thank you so much Andrew. It's definitively the X4S, and from what I can tell it's completely proprietary and obsolete. Guess I'll have to swap out that plug with something more current. It's a bit of a hassle but it would be nice to have a spot light wired to the control box.

Thanks. I checked the website but it doesn't look like they stock any. And if it's special order it's really not worth it. I just need to order some parts for an electronics project, so I'm looking for additional parts to fill the order.

Sadly I don't have any documentation for the mill, and no search on "bridgeport connector" or similar has ever yielded any definitive results. Some have suggested Niphan, but I have only found those in banjo or screw, not push fit.

I need a connector for my Adcock&Shipley Bridgeport, but I don't have the foggirst idea what to search for. Can anyone ID the type for me?

A rockwell tester is handy for sorting metal. Most of the time you don't really care what it is, as long as it is strong enough for the job. And combined with a furnace you can even harden and temper a test piece.