Here is a list of all the postings colin hamilton has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Changing oil seals |
31/08/2022 19:50:50 |
Posted by Howard Lewis on 31/08/2022 16:10:38:
Colin, when fitting the new seals, do apply some lubrication to the shaft (Don't touch the seal lip! ) Running dry will shorten life considerably. If the shaft is worn by the original seal, try to locate the new seal so that the lip does not run non the worn area. (Ideally, the shaft and lipseal need to run in against each other, and a worn / polished track makes this process more difficult. ) Howard Thanks for this. I fitted them on Monday. I did oil the shafts before assembling. I was back down there tonight and the oil was still in the lathe so I'm hoping it all went well! |
31/08/2022 13:37:53 |
Posted by noel shelley on 29/08/2022 15:47:03:
A socket of the right size makes a great seal driver ! Noel. That's exactly how I sorted it - thanks |
29/08/2022 09:23:06 |
Mart - thank you for the wood chisel tip. That and a bigger hammer sorted it!!
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29/08/2022 03:09:13 |
Posted by Macolm on 28/08/2022 21:25:45:
What I have done to remove metal outer oil seals is to carefully drill a small hole about 1mm or 1.5mm diameter through the flange part, then screw in a very small self tapper or perhaps a wood screw. Then use a tack lifter etc to pull it out. If awkward, it may need two screws diametrically opposite. Thanks for this but not sure how it would work in this situation. My seal is fitted with the metal face in the recess. I don't think I could drill the seal without damaging the part it's mounted in |
28/08/2022 19:00:42 |
Thanks mart. Is it unusual for seals to get stuck like this? |
28/08/2022 16:25:22 |
I've got a colchester chipmaster and I'm attempting to change the 2 oil seals on the clutch shaft. They are two different sizes. The smaller of the two popped out with just a little effort. The second larger seal does not want to come out at all and i ended up really giving it a bit of a pounding (any more and i am definately going to damage the flange). My replacement seals are made of what looks like a hard outer plastic casing with a more pliable seal face with a garter spring. The original smaller seal has a metal casing with the seal with garter spring bonded to it. The smaller seal was fitted so the bottom of the metal casing was facing out of the flange but on the larger it seems to be fitted the other way round so I think the metal casing has been pressed into the flange. How can I get it out? The two things I've been thinking about are heat or getting someone to try and turn the casing so thin I can get it out? |
Thread: Bearings or bushed |
05/06/2022 11:38:35 |
![]() Do you have a suitable motor for this project? 10HP would easily cope. Possibly just a little smaller? Motor speed might be important? 2 or 4 pole motor? Two pole at 2800rpm might be the best? Three phase with VFD or a brushless DC might be best for wide speed variation choices? Add to this lot the huge fan required, to supply the combustion air, and you are nearly home. Automatic. ash pan, grate clearing, etc might be a high priority? Might also need a chain saw to cut down the oak trees for the smoking chips. Saw can be electric, of course - better for the environment than using fossil fuels. I think bearings are likely fairly low on your list of priorities.🙂
Yep the things you mention I already have got covered off from when I built my hog roast machine. I'm really interested in improving the bearing set up hence my question but thanks for your input |
01/06/2022 06:18:25 |
Brilliant thanks for the responses. Looks like I have plenty of options. |
31/05/2022 20:10:48 |
So I'm looking to make a rotisserie smoker. Not like a hog roast where the spit is passed through the animal but more like a carrousel where 4 trays rotate round. Basically a smaller version of the attached photo. It will be used at relatively low temp (max approx 180). As with all my builds its about recycling so I'm looking for 'good enough' engineering and the opportunity to make bits. So far it's a barrel for the cooking part and a cut down gas bottle for the fire box. I'm considering the main bearing options. I've got some spare bearings so was thinking of making some housed bearings which I would bolt onto the outside of the barrel but I'm a bit worried about the temp. Would bushes fair better? If yes would aluminium do (I already have some). The main shaft us going to be 19mm pipe and it will be rotating at about 3 rpm.
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Thread: Workshop warming |
28/04/2022 12:52:24 |
I've got a space heater which is good but of course you need to buy the fuel. I also put in a log burner which is great and I can scavenge most of the fuel but I find myself sitting in front of it drinking tea!! |
Thread: Vice - again |
06/04/2022 15:11:52 |
Thanks everyone. ARC Euro seem to be a well respected supplier so I think I am just going to go with them. Although I may go for the 125mm Versatile with the swivel base rather than the 160mm SG iron |
06/04/2022 07:21:34 |
Thanks everyone. Yes it's a bridgeport. I checked on the Bridgeport user group and the 6 inch seems to be the standard. I know the ARC euro Vices are imported same as the vevor items but I was wondering if there was going to a difference in quality? |
05/04/2022 09:38:09 |
Appologies for another vice question. I'll try and keep it specific.
Is the ARC Versatile SG Iron Milling Vice worth the extra £130 when compared to the Accu Lock Vise (6 inch versions).
Thanks Colin |
Thread: Balls!! |
01/04/2022 11:44:23 |
Posted by Pero on 01/04/2022 09:49:50:
I found quite an extensive range on Aliexpress. Various sizes available. Some with threaded brass inserts, some without. The ones I have are a hard plastic ( phenolic resin? ). The colour range is a bit limited, but OK if you like red or black. I'm not sure what size mill you have but you could find 20 mm a little small. 30 - 40 mm seem to be more common on machine tools. Hope this helps Pero It's a bridgeport. Thanks for the advice |
01/04/2022 11:43:38 |
Thanks everyone. I've not got a wide choice of balls!! |
01/04/2022 08:47:54 |
So my mill is missing a few 'tightening levers' for locking the quill and the motor in place. They seem simple enough to make. Can you buy the small balls to go on the end? I was hoping for something around 20mm threaded to say m6. If anyone could point me in the right direction I would appreciate it. Cheers Colin |
Thread: Motor mounting details |
29/03/2022 20:31:24 |
When I was digging out the star point the wires just all gave way and broke down. I'm actually looking forward to trying to repurpose the other motor. I did have a quick word with a motor rewind shop and it's going to be too expensive. If it all goes wrong I'll get one of those unit's that sort of hang off the leadscrew. |
29/03/2022 10:32:04 |
Posted by mgnbuk on 29/03/2022 10:14:16:
Metric motor flange dimensions Above link gives dimesnisons of standard metric motor mounting flanges. Nigel B. Super useful-thanks |
29/03/2022 10:23:57 |
Posted by John Haine on 28/03/2022 22:31:48:
Is the motor really dead, or has the capacitor (if single phase) gone, or some other fault? Induction motors themselves almost never "die" uness it emitted a lot of loud brown smelly smoke. It really is dead because I killed it trying to rewire it to delta!! |
28/03/2022 21:40:45 |
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