Member postings for Chris Mate

My little experience with new 3-Jaw chuck was I checked it with various round bars and found it differ in runout towards the centre holding options the most.
-If you grind the jaws it might be more out in other places because of the scroll.
-I decided to make the 3-Jaw chuck adjustable, now I can adjust it if I had turn around work or refit work to make it run true. I then leave it at the last diameter setting till needed again.
-I used split washers to create drag when loosing the 3x jaw bolts to spindle, so I just slightly loosen it, then screw te grub screws to true it up, this works great.

Trevor Johnson 1: I am fimiliar how they work, but now that I bought a set for the 1st time, My question was about what seems to me a manufacturing fault, it looks the stems at the ball that fits into the holder was not inserted in a hole that points to the centre of the ball, so when it turns it looks "off centre" at the ball. So apparently that does not effect the end result which is you get the tip stabilised and then that is the centre of the spindle, which you then aim at your mark on part, and if you marked correctly the hole drilled will be around the mark in my case the centre.
This is how I understand it now. I also seen its can be dangerous to fingers and hands.

Thanks for the replies, the free end that matters is interesting, because I can just see the shaft is not properly in the ball towards its centre, so its interesting that that does not matter.

I used a small ruler to stabilise the tip, and know about the 1000 RPM speed, but could not find the info I was looking for.

If you got the wiggler deatailed theory theory somewhere linked I can read up on that, I would like to do that. I don't have a DRO yet so boaught a set it was cheap, still buying the other stuff 1st.

Edited By Chris Mate on 30/12/2021 18:30:49

Hi, I recently bought a new Wiggler set.

Today I wanted to use it and found the following:
--I noticed the stiffness...
1-2 of the probes, the one with the sharpest point and the mone with a flat point, both of them the balls mounting in the holder seems not to run true and correct at the ball.
-If I mount the wiggler in the drill press and run it at a higher speed, I can get the sharp tip to run still, however then the stem to the ball runs out of true towards the ball. Can I trust this wiggler if it behave like this-?

2-The probe with the small & large ball, runs true at the large ball in the holder, and I get the small ball to run still. This one seems ok.

Should I return this set and buy one from another dealer, or does what hapopens at the ball in holder not influence the end result reahing a still running tip point(The point running still only)-?

Since the COVID thing and restrictions, I found myself driving much less, so I used the fuel, tyres etc money to buy tools, so basicly most of my tools bought last two years was from fuel money.

I got so used to it, and to be honest I dont enjoy driving that much anymore.

Still busy setting up the mill I bought.
I recently received a new vice, 2x 1-2-3 blocks, Wiggler & Edge finder and a clamping kit.

Mounting the vice:
My mill bed has 4x T-Slot channnels, so I gave it a thought on how to mount the vice. Decided to bolt it to the 3rd channel from the front and decided to mount it in the centre. With the vice mounted to the 3rd channel, if I move the bed Y-Access front to back with spindle centre from fixed jaw to vice max opening moveable jaw, I have in both cases at least 2/3rds of the bed enganged, I think it ok.

I also decided to mount a 20x30x bed with bar on each side of the vice. Now I must slightly mill the vice on both sides 100% square(Not the bolting area on both sides), as well as these bars bolted(And milled) with 4x bolts(Shortened) on each side of the vice. I did mount these bars with 4x bolts each to bed.
Idea is to slide vice between them to get a quick truing position of the vice, seeing I got a swivel bed, then one check is eliminated for most work. I hope this works out. The swivel bed looks it was machined at the square position(0-degrees). So maybe I can make a lock for it in this position. Will have to see if this works out in reality by checking the tramming after shifting the bed or removing replacing the vice..Cannot do this yet.

Wooden Cabinet:

Clamping kit(Blue holder):It has the T-Slot protection build in bolt cannot screw through it in bed.
I mounted the Clamping kit away to the left, + 1-2-3 blocks & Edge finder & wiggler in a sliding wooden box mounted to the wall left side out of the way easy to get to..

Vice Handle:
I made a mount for the vice handle, so if I take it off the vice(Most of the time), it has one place to go next to this wooden cabinet out of the way.

Edited By Chris Mate on 27/12/2021 17:57:47

This set from Warco(Green illustration) looks basicly the same as the 10mm set I bought, and their tips all lined up to the same height perfectly, from where I made a small toolpost specificly for them to get more reach, and it works like a dream on small stuff.(Made some aliminium needlefelting tools for wife housing different number of needles).

I am not an expert, but the bit of plastic cutting I had to do I found that a sharp round HSS cutter with good relief all round did a good job on the outside of a round bar making it smaller diameter. I also find that the sharper the point(Not the cutter sharpness) the slower I must feed sometimes very slow to get a good finish.

I also found that if I sharpen a carbide parting blade sharp keeping its relief angles as is, it parts off the plastic well.

So seeing you want to cut grooves, I would look if the cutter will resemble a sharp parting blade angles and sharpness, and start from there with speed and feed and depth of cut.

Edited By Chris Mate on 16/12/2021 05:10:05

Edited By Chris Mate on 16/12/2021 05:10:47

Thanks for all the advice, thats a lot of perspective on parallels.

Thanks for the advice, I think I settle for 3mm x 150mm 12.5Kg set as example a dealer send me, however the 150mm is not right, so I am trying to get 100mmx 3mm set from them from Vertex(Same as vice).

(I can see I will need the 1/4" or even 1/2" later on for use with the clamp set directly to mill table. In this case I want to make a see through Glass top for lathe with 25mm thick aliminium piece milled to fit a square glass on top with integrated catch plates beneath that to catch the oil and deliver it to the spindle bearings as I have now a mocked up system working with a wood frame and seperate catch plates, no moving parts or bolts that can come loose and fall in gearbox.)

Hi, my new vice jaws are 29mm high. The place I usually buy stuff from has two sets of parrallels 1/4" & 1/2" thick. However the hights confuse me a bit, most of the set will be too high for the jaws.

Is this normal, meaning you can use those that too high for vice with the clamping set to the table as well-?

Or should I just buy individual parallels(in pairs) from another shop less than 29mm only for vice-?

Contents include:
-1 Pair of 3/4 X 6 X 1/4″ (Hole: 5/16&Prime
-1 Pair of 7/8″ X 6 X 1/4″ (Hole: 5/16&Prime
-1 Pair of 1″ X 6 X 1/4″ (Hole: 5/16&Prime
-1 Pair of 1-1/8″ X 6 X 1-4″ (Hole: 3/8&Prime
-1 Pair of 1-1/4″ X 6 X 1/4″ (Hole: 3/8&Prime
-1 Pair of 1-3/8″ X 6 X 1-4″ (Hole: 7/16&Prime
-1 Pair of 1-1/2″ X 6 X 1/4″ (Hole: 7/16&Prime
-1 Pair of 1-5/8″ X 6 X 1/4″ (Hole: 1/2&Prime
-1 Pair of 1-3/4″ X 6 X 1/4″ ((Hole: 1/2&Prime

I bought a QCTP holder that can hold up to 20mm, and it was indicated as correct for my small 330 swing gearhead Lathe.
-I have used up to 16mm so far no problem(HSS).
-I bought a 12mm set of carbide tools, but unfortunately, or actually it does not matter with QCTP not all of them line up with their tips at same height.....
-I also bought a set of 10mm tools and in this case they all are equal height in tips even thread cutting & part off.
In this case I made my own small toolholder for the 10mm set, so if the other one pose reaching problems, I just switch to this toolholder, and no adjustment the height is always correct as well.
(Note:I do not have to space up the 10mm in this tool holder)

I think the bigger can be better, but you still limited by the Lathe capability in making a deeper cut, power, total sturdiness etc, so if your bigger tool does not result in a total sturdier setup, maybe it does make a difference in smaller cuts with bigger tools space permitting.

Edited By Chris Mate on 11/12/2021 13:18:23

Ok, thanks for all the info, I don't want to loose a MT size down, so the above idea not what I want.

So I stick to my original plan of MT4 & ER32 Collets, I will then convert the drill & others to straight shanks with the intention not to have to take out the MT4, only change the ER 32 collets. I will go with the light tention of drawbar and tapping if necessary, I can use and have 2 wedges with the mill. If I have problems with nthe straight shank conversions, its easy go back to MT4.

Note:
This mill with the swivel bed, I could only get in MT4 and with a 30L coolant tank, (Thats why I am trying to make the most out of the coolant affair as an experiment), no options here. I see on these smaller mills the manual say R8 or MT4, however even those other mills without swivel bed also has MT4 where I live, I am sure I saw them 3 years back with R8.

Edited By Chris Mate on 06/12/2021 16:47:14

-Adaptors Sleeves/Morse Taper=Open Sleeve with Release Nut.
I am also looking at this, however what this exactly is and how it fits or replace the MT4 for ER32 I am not sure about yet. They said I may be able to get this but its not something they stock.

If somebody can explain what excactly this part is, meaning if I buy it will it be fitted with an ER32 chuck on an MT4 arbor, but with the nut(16mm) added, and just work-?

Edited By Chris Mate on 06/12/2021 13:35:10

Edited By Chris Mate on 06/12/2021 13:36:30

Paul, this mill has that, and I am looking at that too. I once modified a G-Clamp to press out a drillpress(MT2) the small taper holding the chuck(From both sides), but that is only used if a new chuck is fitted to MT2 arbor(Rarely). Not sure if I can come up with something non intrusive to bearings with least moving parts after looking at all opinions.

Edited By Chris Mate on 06/12/2021 05:51:58

Thanks, I try this method.

Hi, I like latest opinions on modifying an MT4 arbor for ER32 collets etc, by undercutting a section around the centre of it so it release easier. The drawbar is 16mm.

Is this a bad idea-?

On monday I am buying a Vertex VA4 milling vice 20kg(Taiwan) for double the price of a similar looking chinese one(I think 19Kg), so I hope its ok.

Have a question:
After starting wth HSS, I changed over to a QCTP & carbide toolhiolders, so now I use them the most.
Below is roughtly what I got, and then the question below....

I bought a set of small 10mm carbide toolholders with inserts, I also bought a set of 12mm toolholders with inserts

1-The 10mm set is neautral looking straight and if I place the holders on a flat surcface, all the tips up to thread & part off cutting insert tips measure precicely same height, so I made a toolpost for these only, just insert and the height is always correct. These give a beautifull finish.

2-The 12mm set not all the tips add up to the same height, so I use them on QCTP. They give mixed results.

4-I bought 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm Iscar boring bars, fitted each in a square machined block to fit QCTP.
-I really like these. I found the 6mm boring bar very handy sometimes.

5- I also have 12mm Kenametal boring bars Left and right type.

6- Bought a separate Part off toolholder with Iscar blade, inserts both sides. These iserts are extremely tough.
and need some pressure to cut. So I grind them sharp with a dremel diamond blade, quick actually, I actually like this, so I grind them now with this tool mounted horizontal on a dremel drill press stand you buy seperately.
-Sharp it part off like a dream. I can also take light cuts left to right without insert coming out.

Heres my question I am not sure about:
From somewhere I understood that although certain toolholders may look negative downward facing, the insert inserted may fit in such a way it actually positively cutting .........Is this correct-?
 

Edited By Chris Mate on 01/12/2021 20:25:54

Edited By Chris Mate on 01/12/2021 20:27:56

I dont think the selution is going to be easy and most important successfull. Oil evolved with population growth, however the green selutions just sprung up at 7 billion+ scale, now theres a big diffrence to take into account.
The other thing is resources already consumed, and resources going to be consumed manufacturing totally new stuff and scrapping old stuff, can we afford this as resources sunk physically deeper into the earth to mine at the scale required.

To replace the oil energy at a scale of 7 Billion and growing will literally flooded the earth surface with windmills and solar panels that neither provide power 24/7/365. We have not seen it at that scale ever in the history of mankind, so its a big jump into a new future projected.

Nature has a way of ballancing things out over time in its ways which we may not like, it would be interesting to see which new problems creeps up after such a change, and if we can deal with that.

It looks we are going to have less and less of a life in future. Will we be able to have stable power to sustain a power hungry digital world(Huge constant power), including your banking affairs working 24/7/365-?

I cannot see how any monetary system can keep on functioning if the real basic resources involved in everything else from basic(Your basic needs) to luxuries(Those you can avoid if have to) like:
1-Water
2-Electricity
3-New digital embedded in al systems.
4-Transport
5-Medical
6-Food

If these basics get out of hand in exponential ways, the system will not be able to keep up, you need these just to stay alive and have a work.

Edited By Chris Mate on 29/11/2021 12:17:52