Member postings for Mike Hurley

I've got a couple of Dasqua tools (not Mics though) and very happy with the design and build quality for the price.

Mike

Putting my head above the parapet here!

I personally find that in some cases, a ground HSS tool will do the trick (after experimentation) when having problems with a specific job. Part and parcel of this hobby is getting solutions to issues, and often this means going back to basics.

In this case, if you have tried all the basics (speed, feed, chuck, gibs, technique etc ) detailed by others and still have a problem, essentailly it must be either the material itself or what is cutting it. You appear to be using different sized stock in your various photos, so fair to assume it's not just one dodgy bar.

Basic grinding of HSS tools should form part of your skill set in time. Indexable tips are wonderful in many ways, but will not cover every eventuality in the hobby environment. In time you will come across tasks that require a special one-off tool ( e.g. a form tool ) which is simply not available commercially, so you have to make something suitable.

Perhaps look into the possibilty of starting to grind HSS, you do't need to go mad - just learning the very basic techniques and a lot of practice are all you need. There are masses of instructional videos / online text / books that show you how. May save you a lot of frustration in the future.

I'm not trying to come across as condescending, but simply stating a personal opinion that I feel might help you with your problem.

Regards Mike

These people sell them, so might be able to source the pins? Pin spanner

Interesting to say the least. I never grind aluminium on wheels but occasionaly use my linisher to smooth off edges on various materials, mainly alu & steel. Like many, never thought of the dangerous issue detailed above, so will definately keep it in mind in future.

Also a very timely reminder about safety glasses!

Glad you survived intact John

regards

Mike

In many cases fixed-speed versions designed for wood run far too fast for use on many metals. Also, if stated as not suitable for metal I would assume use might void warranty etc

Much appreciated Jason.

Regards Mike

Agreeing with what Paul says.

The Website FAQS covers many standard items like this and the common question about adding photos to postings. However, there is a lot of material in the FAQs and may be difficult for newcomers to see the wood for the trees and doubt if many bother to venture far into the dark forest! Also, there does seem to be more of an attitude these days looking for instant answers to everything ( Google world I suppose), and I admit to being as guilty as others at times. However, members of the forum are generous in their time and effort to reply regardless, even though you see the same info repeated time and again.

Just thinking out loud - would it not be possible for the web site team to configure things so that when a newbie joins they are directed to a 'checklist' of say the 10 most common questions, which they have to agree to? Before going more into the sort of idea that I have, it will be interesting just to get feedback on the concept - good or bad. If it is a possibility, I appreciate work would be required, but am confident that members would contribute, as I would be happy to

regards Mike.

Edited By Mike Hurley on 22/08/2023 10:39:53

Welcome back Geoff.

I know of these drills, but have never owned or used one. I'd be looking at very occasional use in the lathe (Bench drill a bit too lightweight) which is a Chinese BV20 3/4hp geared head with VFD. So what practically would be the largest size something like this might cope with do you think? I've seen quite modestly priced sets online ranging 14 - 25mm but (OK quality might not be too good , but for once-in-a-blue moon use ? ) or might consider, as you said, a couple of odd better quality ones say 15, 18, 22 ?

I appreciate it's a bit of a 'how long is a piece of string' type question, and wouldn't hold anything against you if it don't work well, but your thoughts would be appreciated.

regards Mike

Doesn't bother me at all, I genuinely believe you're never too old to learn something new, or occasionally unlearn something you've been doing poorly for years. A proportion of guys on this forum (like me) never had formal training in industry/ apprenticeship so are self taught,- and a lot of the learning was pre-internet / YouTube days, so you read what books you could get hold of, had a go and often got it right, sometimes not. But bad techniques could also be picked up.

If you aren't open to helpful suggestions from others you are missing a trick.

I prefer to be open minded & more than happy to take others ideas on board.

Thanks again for all the useful info guys!

Regards Mike

The question reared its head this time with a job opening a 13mm hole (biggest drill I've got) to about 28mm. The worpiece was about 55mm round so fitted in the lathe chuck (outside jaws) OK, started with my insert-based bars until I realised I could only 'rough ' bore through to about 20mm without hitting the lowest steps in the chuck jaws. Managed to get it set up on the Mill and used the boring head (which I've had many years but hardly used) with the brazed carbide tipped tools that came with it ( ! )

I think I cold have got a better finish and nore accurately sized hole if I tried chopping through with a stone axe and flint chisel.

I've taken a mental note of all your useful observations guys, and will definately try out one or two ideas the next time a task comes up. So appreciate the time taken - thanks

Regards, Mike

In one form or another (from what I see searching previous posts) this topic has aired many times. Even after reviewing these, I'm still not 100% clear.

Boring in steels, either via the lathe or on the mill, using carbide tipped tools I get results I'm never totally happy with. If I use sharp HSS bits in a boring bar, I make slow progress but usually get a reasonable job, but this can prove tedious at times.

My general understanding on tips for (for example) external turning is they perform best with a higher speed and much heavier cut than HSS - which I find to be true. When boring though applying the same parameters doesn't work well for me as I seem to get to much (apparent) flexing in the bar and it always sounds as if the tip is rubbing rather than cutting although it does cut, but I find it difficult to get accuracy. I have to assume the geometry at the tip end is correct as this is pre-set by the design of the unit as a whole.

Before anyone asks - I'm using bars substantial enough for the dia of each hole attempted, the mounting is as solid as possible, gibs tight , slidey bits locked where approriate etc and the correct type of tip for the bar ( as detailed by the suppier). Am I missing something glaringly obvious?

Any comments appreciated. Regards Mike

Welcome Malcolm. Plenty of friendly, practical advice is here.

Chester & Warco offer a wide range of machines these days and appear to offer good after sales support. The BV20 is pretty basic and quite long in the tooth these days ( I know, as I own one! )

It's going to depend on what you think you will be using it for. With your interest in old m/cycles are you looking to make small parts or something more substantial. This will indicate the size, accuracy & power you need.

Geared head machines tend to be a bit more noisy than belt / electronic drive systems, which can be a consideration in some environments

If you aren't in a rush, keeping an eye on the classifieds may turn up something that would suit at a good price

All the best Mike

Edited By Mike Hurley on 17/08/2023 19:32:26

Just received my new blade from ARC Euro * with a GTN2 insert ; was planning to (when ever I get round to it ) make a rear toolpost for it so hopefully avoiding all the parting-off horrors I've experienced over the years. Believe me I've tried every bit of advice from you good folk on the forum over the years and still could never get a decent job / often getting jams etc with HSS blades.

Just tried the new toy on the ordinary 4 way, made sure everything was locked tight as practical, lowest gear so about 80 - 100 rpm and working on a 2in dia MS bar.

Joy! With consistent manual feed (fairly heavy) went in like the proverbial knife through butter. Brilliant!

Don't now feel a rear toolpost will be necessary for the standard type of materials I use anyway.

Regards Mike

* Other suppliers stock similar models

That mains plug photo gave me the best laugh I've had in ages, unbelievable! (disclaimer : I would of course never advise / recommend this as a serious method of safe electric installation)

Similarly, I ordered a boring bar from JB cutting tools via eBay one afternoon last week and Royal mail delivered it the next morning! Jenny B also sent me a few extra cutting inserts (that she had surplus ) f.o.c.

So, there are good guys (& girls) out there!

I had some of the Clarke stuff and I'm sure it is sold as safe & non-toxic, but I found it stank something awful in use and honestly believed ' breathing this stuff in can't be good for you ' and stopped using it pretty soon after.

I'm not convinced it is any use anyway in the hobby environment. You don't need anything with brass and not normally with aluminium . If you're using the correct toolbits with steels again you won't normally need any (unless as mentioned before, your using more exotic materials.) So as Andrew says, I'd bin it and perfect your technique without it

Regards Mike

My assumtion is that it is / has been a 'standard ' size. The labels on the original stones clearly state 32mm

Looking at the ABTEC listings kindly recommended clearly show a few specifically stated as 32mm bore, with the majority of others being 31.75. I don't think its just an 'old ' standard thats gone out of use as I've seen quite a few of the modern diamond wheels also listed as 32mm bore.

So the answer is, I don't know. Just another of life's little irritations?

I tend to find that if I use a caliper 10 times on an object, I can get slightly different readings probably 8 x. Particularly when leaning over the lathe often at an arkward angle. Slightest difference on finger pressure closing the jaws, slight 'rocking' of the caliper from right angles to the work, narrowness of the jaws etc all contribute. OK so many may fairly say to improve my technique - I have tried, but with little success.

Put a mic on the job and its done, consistently repeatable and accurate.

I use the callipers for handy, quick and easy readings & they are excellent - but when it comes down to getting measurements spot on its the micrometer for me every time.

regards

Appreciate you comments & suggestions chaps.

Having looked at many suppiers info etc it seems that most wheels are commonly available with the 31.75 bore. 32 are around, but seems less choice overall, so I made the executive decision to adjust the hub rather than the stone.

Knocked up a quick arbor, fitted the hub / flange casting and checked concentricity with the old DTI. Skimmed fine, fitted back on the grinder with the new green wheel & works fine. Will do the other end as & when I need to change the wheel next

regards to all

Mike