Member postings for jon hill 3

Ive been thinking about the same problem myself, although I where a p3 gas and fume respirator as a temporary stop gap.

Long term I am considering building an extraction hood, perhaps using a bathroom condensation fan and pipe out the window or perhaps small chimney. Not sure what the neighbours would think with burnt engine oil smoke blowing about!

I am thinking on building a memlite replica as I have a few lengths of square tube and I could re-purpose my existing lamp shade. If I cant use the shade then I could canabolise an ikea lamp.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Looking to replace my old rs lathe work lamp as pivits cannot be sufficiently tightened down, and it has a nasty habit of collapsing while the lathe is running!!!

Having made running repairs the caste alloy pivots seem to be fractured and wont prevent movement like they should.

I was thinking of a 2nd hand one say a well constructed lamp such as a memlite, what do other members use? Also where can I source one for ideally less than £50 including postage? Fixer uppers are fine as I have plenty of cable, gromits, bulb holders etc.

If anyone has one please pm me .

Jon

Hi Nick

I dont have a smart phone so a cheap attachment wouldn't work for me, I will keep an eye out in Aldi though.

Personally I would go with aqua board, a plasterboard designed for high humidity environments and buy some passivated plasterboard screws. Much cheaper than marine ply and you don't even need to skim, it can be painted.

The choice then is between mastic to fill the gaps or corner tap and drylining jointing compound.

Stanley do a budget one for £100 which seems to have some fans on screwfix, however one guy used it on his engine and part of the plastic trim came off! It ended up costing him £1000's for an engine rebuild, ouch!

Any other suggestions?

I need a recommendation on choosing a 2nd hand inspection camera for looking under the floor in my house.

I had a rat problem and the dead carcuse smell keeps coming back. After lifting many floorboards and removing some dead rats, I still havent solved the smell. I think there are further dead rats under the downstairs loo and possibly a tiled floor in the kitchen, hence the need for a inspection camera.

Having got in the 'professionals' who did b*gger all I thought it would be cheaper to buy a 2nd hand endoscope and flog it on when done.

So any recommendations on a rugged piece of kit that might keep its used value?

Jon

Edited By jon hill 3 on 01/10/2020 20:39:41

I was interested to here about oil resistant makers eg sharpie pro, I just discovered staney make one to. Has anyone used these pens and do they live up to the hype?

I often use a solvent marker pen so my marking out shows up better, however solvent pens don't take well on oily surfaces. Are there pens that will take to any oily surface?

Also I vaguely remember using a bottle of blueing for the same purpose many moons ago, having made a quick search there are a bewildering variety of different products. Can someone explain the difference in these products... Eg engineers blue in a tin, bluing paste, cold blue etc.

All back together again. A marked improvement from before, I had approximately 40 thou tool movement from moving the carriage back and forth when turning. Now when reversing the carriage there is only a few thou clearance on the tool, very happy with that.

Also I had very uneven cuts on turning or a few thou taper on only an inch of travel. That problem has now disappeared.

Thanks for all the advise guys!

Hi Doug

Any recommendations on slip stones?

I have been meaning to get around to making a leather swarf cover, some day I'll do it.

It seems I was mistaken, given a good tug it came off. Everything much less complicated than I thought, however I still have to get to together. Oddly enough the half nuts werent in too bad shape and fairly clean, perhaps they were replaced.

Next job is to reduce the play in the lead screw. Is there a means of adjustment?

Also is ways oil sufficient for lubrication on re-assembly?

Thanks Clive

What about the saddle, I presume I need to remove the cross slide to take it off and clean any inbedded swarf?

I tried winding the cross slide all the way back, but there is a stop of some sort to prevent it fully dis-engauging.

Jon

Having noticed the volume of swarf building up in the leadscrew pinions and scratches in the bed I think it is about time I took the apron off fro cleaning.

I have the Myford 743L maintenance manual which doesn't clearly explain the sequence of disassembly or reassembly.

The lathe is over 40yrs old and reasonably looked after since new but to the best of my knowledge my father never had it apart for cleaning except for a headset bearing replacement. So I would say that the apron is long overdue a stripdown.

Can anyone point me to a youtube video, instructional website or perhaps even a digital manual. I know Myford do an additional manual 743K I think, but the price seems a bit steep for what looks like some photocopied sheets stapled together.

What carbide tools do you use for general turning and facing?

Having acquired some sumitomo tooling I quite like the more obtuse knife inserts as I seam to get a better finish compared to the sharp diamond point tools. It might just be me but I also find the former more hard wearing and feel confident to push them more aggressively.

I am not wedded to sumitomo so if you think brand x is equalIy durable or very good value let me know your views....

Edge to edge on the flats the cutter measures 9.52mm which may avoid some confusion.

thanks for the catalogue refs guys.

Hi Oldiron

Sadly there isn't any part no printed on the insert, but here is a close up of the cutter.

Can anyone identify this sumitomo carbide insert?

The insert is approximately 15mm cutting tip to tip on the longest edge. I have used it to cut brass, steel and stainless however I don't know for certain its intended cutting material.

If anyone can identify the part no, it would be much appreciated. The tool holder reference number is sclcr1212-32s.

Thanks Michael & Bert, if the book had said to cut either side to make a hinge this would have made more sense to a complete novice like myself. I initially thought that the hatched area was an additional vertical cut.

Your explanation makes more sense. In my defence a complete newbie has to cover many topics when starting out, some of which come up from technical problems with kit and materials and some form lack of clear explanation to greenhorns like me.

Also as per Michael's ref to pg26, H. Hall mentions cutting down the grove or at least implies this.does this refer to 2 parallel cuts, one bi-secting the tapped hole in the base and another on the opposite side? Or just one cutting throught the hole in the base? Or a third option cutting a deeper groove all the way round the circumference?

Perhaps all 3 options may work or only one hence I defer to someone with more experience....

Heres a copy of the drawing to explain my confusion.