Here is a list of all the postings Craig Brown has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Wire |
16/12/2021 14:43:23 |
I would imagine it's catenary wire, used to carry electrical cables overhead between buildings. Not much use for that application without the clamps and anchors. |
Thread: What Did You Do Today 2021 |
23/10/2021 22:49:38 |
Posted by Mick B1 on 22/10/2021 21:02:56:
I've really got to cut back on this kids' stuff and get back to Real Model Engineering...
Edited By Mick B1 on 22/10/2021 21:05:18
On the contrary, I'm inspired by what you have made as I am looking for ideas of things I could build for my son for Christmas and would be interested to see/hear about what else you have built |
Thread: Collets for Myford tailstock |
23/10/2021 03:54:08 |
Power tapping on the lathe doesn't require collets to hold the taps. I use a drill chuck to hold the taps, snug it down nice and tight and it will hold the tap no problem. The added benefit of using a drill chuck is that if your tapping a blind hole or the tap binds up for whatever reason then the tap should spin in the chuck rather than snap which would be the likely outcome if held in a collet. A keyed chuck is preferred over a keyless as there can be some issues backing the tap out in reverse because the chuck can undo its self, may not be an issue on a myford with a screw spindle nose as running in reverse is best avoided. Sorry to deviate from the original question I just wanted to offer another option incase you were unaware. Hope that helps |
Thread: Excel Multi Mill looking for information |
05/09/2021 21:33:22 |
Didn't consider that to be honest, great idea, I will give them an email tomorrow. I guess it would have been up against the likes of the VMC, but with the added costs associated with the horizontal side made it not as desirable? Who knows but as long as it turns out as good as it appears then I will be happy |
05/09/2021 08:01:41 |
Thats what I was thinking Baz, there are a few minor issues to iron out but once they are it should be a nice machine. Obviously though from the lack of replies here and lack of information online then they clearly didn't make/sell many of them, hopefully the reason for this would be they were too expensive rather than not very good. |
Thread: What Did You Do Today 2021 |
04/09/2021 06:25:33 |
Posted by Paul Lousick on 04/09/2021 05:43:06:
Because of the Covid restrictions, all of the planned engine rallies have been cancelled and I needed to let off a bit of steam with a couple of laps around the local neighbourhood Paul, your video is showing as private so can not be viewed |
Thread: Excel Multi Mill looking for information |
03/09/2021 19:43:21 |
Please excuse the low quality eBay pictures but I have just purchased this machine and had to partially dismantle it to get it home so until it's back together it's the best I have got at the moment. I took a bit of a punt on this machine on eBay as the pictures/description were poor but I also couldn't find any information online about this machine, I was able to find only 1 average image online. So was wondering if any of the members have seen or own one of these machines before? What little I know about it so far are that it is made in Taiwan in 1981, has a int/iso 30 taper in both the vertical and horizontal spindles. It does have an "Alpine" sticker on one of the belt covers as well as the Excel tag on the machine. The turret is swung through 180 degrees to switch between vertical and horizontal mode. The vertical head has a quill that is currently seized (I believe the clamp is just rusted in he locked position). It does have a knee actuated by a handwheel underneath the table. If anybody has any information or experience of these machines I would be interested to hear as it appears to be quite a versatile machine that is quite stout for its size but I was surprised to find no information online about it. Thanks, Craig |
Thread: Knurling tool |
04/08/2021 19:07:57 |
Posted by Steviegtr on 04/08/2021 16:06:29:
The one i have is very hard to tension the jaws. The ratio is not great. Also the tensioner is very near the rotating work & bothers me a tad when tensioning because of the effort needed to turn it. The Meek design caught my eye with the tensioner at the back.
I'm assuming you are trying to apply tension with the knurls on the stock? The way I use the scissor type tool is to set the tool so the wheels just drag the stock at the top and bottom then move the carriage off the work then apply some "cut", start the lathe and bring the wheels back onto the work (a good chamfer on the stock helps here). I have always had good success this way |
04/08/2021 07:53:14 |
I made the basic one from Hemingway and find it very good, was also an enjoyable build. I modified the size of the arms and pins to accommodate the more commonly available 3/8" wide wheels. I have used the tool on both a Boxford and a large Colchester at work with great success on both |
Thread: Surface finish for aluminium sheet? |
13/05/2021 10:17:23 |
I made this money box for my son and basically used the exact same technique described by Jim above. A wooden dowel with a piece of leather glued to the end and used a mix of oil and surface grinder swarf as the abrasive. Cover the surface in oil and then sprinkle a small covering of the abrasive and then just work your way across. It's best to set up a fence to keep the pattern square and I just did my overlaps by eye. Obviously a spacer is then used between the part and the fence for the next row and so on and so on. Craig |
Thread: Naerok 350 mill |
09/05/2021 09:28:27 |
The reason for asking is that mine came fitted with an A32 and an A23 but these appeared too tight to select all speeds. On seeing this thread I ordered an A25 (the A25 size can also be confirmed from a picture on lathes.co.uk) but that seems too loose. Mine has had a replacement motor fitted so that may be cocking up the centres for the smaller belt so maybe I will try an A24 |
08/05/2021 22:35:37 |
Sorry to drag this thread back up but no sense in starting a new one. Would someone be able to confirm the belt sizes for the Naerok RDM350? Many thanks, Craig |
Thread: Think you have trouble losing your chuck key? |
02/04/2021 04:41:52 |
Impressive work. Inventive use of the pantograph too, I like it! |
01/04/2021 14:24:50 |
Very nice indeed, would also be interested in the finer details. I like how the jaws are to scale also because that is my problem with the ones made for the kits like David's, they are always too big (no disrespect David, your model looks great) but the makers (Stuart and others) must deem it too fiddly to do the jaws to scale? |
Thread: Er32 3mt Collet Holder |
14/03/2021 10:13:32 |
I wondered the same when I first got mine but it is there to retain the collect, the collet snaps into this offset ring and it holds it there. Good pictures and description here: https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/ER-Collets/ER32-Collets Edit: Jason beat me to it Edited By Craig Brown 2 on 14/03/2021 10:14:27 |
Thread: Heinrici without Castings |
27/02/2021 03:12:14 |
Top work on the finishing there you really have aged it nicely. If you would have said it was an original engine I wouldn't even bat an eyelid |
Thread: Digital Callipers - again |
24/02/2021 12:48:03 |
What Emgee said. I have 3 pairs, all purchased second hand and all bullet proof |
Thread: 1/20th Scale Traction Engine |
22/02/2021 21:51:32 |
Starting to take shape now, really looks the part 👍 |
Thread: Making mild steel look like cast iron |
22/02/2021 10:09:54 |
Thanks all for the tips. I do know someone who does some agricultural sandblasting which might work to blend everything in and give it a bit of texture but that would obviously leave it a light grey. I had thought of going down the route of submerging them in brine to let them go rusty in order to give them a bit of texture and then treat them to remove the rust. I do believe I have used a rust treatment before that turned the steel black as Neil described. I do have a needle descaler which i might try out also for some texture. Finally I could try polishing them with Zebrite and see how that comes out. Thanks all for the ideas Craig |
21/02/2021 17:02:37 |
Far from model making but im sure some knowledgeable people on here could advise. Long story short, I have restored a couple of these fireplaces for my house and unfortunately the mantel shelves have been lost to the sands of time and I would like to fabricate some out of mild steel. No problem there however the fireplaces are the bare, raw cast iron dark grey colour/finish and I would like to try and match this for the mantels if possible. They will obviously be manufactured from mild steel, welded and ground/dressed etc. Just wondered if anyone could offer any advice on how to make them look like an original cast item. Painting is the last resort really, but will paint the mantels if necessary. Thanks, Craig |
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