Member postings for Craig Brown

Looks pretty seamless too me. If this is just OK then I look forward to a part you are very pleased with.

Thanks for the pictures and details, enjoying the build.

Having recently acquiring a new to me lathe it was missing a chuck key for the 3 jaw and a 10mm square drive spanner for the tool post. So today I made a chuck key and made a start on the handle

Can you use "print screen" on your desktop to screen capture the image, copy it into Paint and then save it as a variety of image formats? You can also crop it in Paint as required. A bit long winded maybe, but should get the results you need.

Thanks both, have now found it and ordered one

Have you got a link for the gear as all I could find was a 26T Myford change gear unless this is what is being referred to?

Thanks, Craig

Thanks for the info and pictures.....this is a job I would like to do in the future

I am very much enjoying all the casting threads of late, from all of the contributors, some beautiful work being done. Although I'm not in a position to try any casting myself now, it's something I would very much like to do in the future and I'm sure all these threads will help. Thanks everyone

Mr Pete also did a series on building one. Always thought it looked a useful addition to a drill press

Float Lock Vise

See this recent thread:

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=179297

Edited By Craig Brown 2 on 18/06/2022 21:58:04

Thanks for the kind words. One of my favorite things to do is make tools. To that end I have just finished a direct mount ER32 chuck for my Boxford, using the previously made gauge.

When you say end mill are you using a 4 flute cutter? Slot drills (2 flute cutters) should be used for cutting slots. Along with a kerosene based lubricant as mentioned above

Made a spindle nose gauge for my Boxford. The thread is about a thou under measured over wires and the original faceplate and catch plate go on lovely. The register is a couple of tenths under 1.5". The actual thread on the nose of the lathe is a bit looser and the register is about half a thou under 1.5" so anything gauged with this should fit on the lathe nicely

Finished off a couple of jobs today. Made these knobs for locking the x and y axis and belt tension on my mill drill.

Also made new hubs for my sack truck to replace the rubbish pressed steel items, with integrated bearings, one of which had collapsed.

Finished off my Autolock - ER32 adapter. Not yet put it through its paces but I did spin it up and it wasn't wobbling all over the place so should be alright

I always shape the handle for a good tight fit in the hammer head.

My handles are purchased from a local farm/agricultural supply business, might be worth looking for one local to you

Started work on a Autolock - ER32 adapter. Simular to the FC3 adapters you can get for the 6mm shank tools this will fit in the same way but have an ER32 nose instead. That's the theory anyway. Reason being its to go on an INT 50 machine and finding a tool holder with a 1" BSW drawbar thread with ER32 at the business end is nigh on impossible

I may just stone a radius on the sharp flute.

This however sparks another question, I have a number of standard end mills where the sharp point has burnt up, blunted or chipped and I always assumed these would require the attention of a T+C grinder but, as discovered with these roughing cutters, if differences in the tips doesn't effect the functionality of the cutter (which is obvious as they wouldn't sell any) then can I hand grind a chamfer or fillet on to the corners of these old end mills to get them cutting satisfactory again?

Thanks for the replies so far.

I am aware they are for roughing out and not finishing which really is what got me thinking about the ends because unless you are just using the flutes to remove material from the periphery of something thinner than the depth of the flutes then the ends and therefore corners are going to be doing some work. And by definition these cutters can be worked hard so I was just curious about the vulnerability of the ends, imparticular that one sharp corner.

Yes this cutter has had a regrind but im sure I have seen new ones with a standard grind on the end in the same fashion as this one, happy to be corrected if this is infact not true

I have a question regarding the ends of roughing end mills. As can be seen in these pictures, of this particular 3 flute Presto cutter, that due to form of the cutter when the ends are ground they don't all come to a point like a standard cutter.

So does this mean that when in use, for example cutting an inside corner for say a tee-nut, does the sharpest corner take more abuse than the others and act a bit like a single point cutter?

Thoughts welcomed,

Craig

We had a rat for around 2 months when we first moved in to our house that was undergoing renovation. I set up cameras to record its movements at night and to see if it was still in the house. We were very careful to make sure food was shut away and no scraps left out. They are very clever creatures that can fit through small holes, jump very high and climb rough vertical faces.

I decided to block all holes into the house as I found some nights it was leaving and coming back and I didn't want it breeding or bringing others in. Then I set up around 8 or so snap traps (top tip, bait has to be stuck down with something sticky, chocolate spread or peanut butter, because one night I filmed it pulling a biscuit off a trap without activating it) it is then just a waiting game as they can go a long time without food or water. In the mean time I knew someone with rabbiting ferrets but they couldn't sniff it out.

Eventually hunger got the better of it and it got caught in a trap. Still to this day I don't know where it was hiding in the day, I suspect under the floor somewhere but who knows. Not a very pleasant experience but satisfying when finally caught and knowing it was gone.