Member postings for Craig Brown

All the best with the migration. Hopefully it goes smoothly

The outside of the shed is complete all bar the guttering which is probably what I should be doing in this nice weather but I want to get the 2k epoxy floor paint down and give it chance to cure before I start moving machines around on it

Bedec MSP (Multi Surface Paint) is a paint I use on external joinery. It can be painted directly onto pretty much anything but in the details it states it can be painted onto galvanised steel after it has been left to weather

Black Acetal was also my first thought but very light weight compared with brass if that bothers you? You could maybe add a weight into the bottom of the pieces?

For anyone who hasn't seen my shed insulation thread then I have finished constructing the roof over the last couple of days. Just facias to install, a repaint of everything and install some guttering then I can start on the inside. Unfortunately work stops play for the next few days

Again, thanks to everyone for sharing their experiences. I have over the last 2 days finished the roof off and I think it will serve well to keep most of the rain water off the shed (once guttering has been fitted). For that reason I'm going to be pretty happy to install rockwool or polystyrene between the studs without the usual requirements for air gaps and membranes. That being said I do have some membrane left over from the roof, I may have enough of this for 1 layer around the bottom of the shed, attached to the backside of the cladding. Realistically this is the only area that may see any rain water.

Yes Jason the cladding was already nailed liberally to the framework when I got it and I understand that removing it to create proper ventilation and installing a breathable membrane would be the preferred method but for multiple reasons it just isn't something I can dedicate the time and effort into

This is a stop gap workshop that has come earlier than I was expecting due to the fact it was a freebie and on the door step so I am just trying to make the best with what I have to give me a usable work space.

Howard, security will be the next thing I'm sure I will be fretting about, shed break ins are not uncommon in my area so will be something to consider. Like you say I have toyed with the idea of doing away with the windows for both insulation and security reasons

Thanks for the replies so far. Bill, it's interesting to hear you had success with a full fill rockwool with plasterboard over. At the end of the day it is just a shed after all, the majority of which was free and it is only intended to be stop gap before I construct a masonry workshop, but who knows when I will get to that.

Bazyle, thanks for confirming my suspicious as regards to the finer details regarding the ventilation. There may be a way in which I can channel the top of each section into the eaves to ventilate there.

Edited By Craig Brown on 09/08/2023 08:17:18

Hello all, please excuse the long post but im sure someone will be able to offer some sound advice (I have gone round in circles reading both on this forum and elsewhere)

I am currently erecting a second hand wooden 16' x 12' shed in my garden to use as a workshop and im interested in hearing some real world experiences in how best to keep the condensation at bay in this type of structure.

Details as follows, the shed is sat on a concrete base with dpm present. It is in sections that are built using a 3" x 2" CLS square frame with vertical uprights and 20mm shiplap cladding nailed externally. I have screwed all the sections together, have added an additional sole plate and wall plate and have built a new roof consisting of 4" x 2" rafters followed by a breathable membrane then 2 x 1 laths for which to fix a metal sheet roofing. The roof space will be insulated with 100mm loft insulation between the rafters and clad in 3mm or 6mm ply internally (maybe with a vapour barrier before ply).

I'm pretty happy at this stage but it's the walls that are causing more head scratching. Now I understand the best way to construct if building from scratch with air gaps and breathable membranes to allow the cladding to breathe but I don't have this luxury so am after the most suitable compromise to offer some improvements.

To try and limit the amount of water that will come in contact with the cladding I have the rafters overhanging at the eaves by 12", that will also be plus facia and guttering. The verge overhang is yet to be determined but will be at least 12" if not 18" (depends how it works out with the roof sheeting).

My most recent train of thought with the walls would be to place 50mm polystyrene (PIR not within budget) between the vertical uprights, leaving a 15mm air gap between it and the outside cladding then a vapour barrier over everything, followed by a ply cladding internally. With this I just have visions of the vapour barrier sweating due to the lack of ventilation in the wall structure without drilling loads of holes in the framework and or cladding. Sometimes I just wonder if it would be better to just leave the walls open, draught proof and roll with it but once all the tools are in there's no taking them out again.

So does anybody have any suggestions of what needs or needs to not be done with the walls to help prevent anything I put in the shed going rusty and ideally keep the heating bills down during the winter?

Thanks, Craig

Edited By Craig Brown on 08/08/2023 20:45:16

Spent a couple of days screwing the shed together and cutting a new roof

Of coarse a typing error, should have said shoe box not shed

I am in the middle of making some heavy duty hinges to hang some wrought iron gates off. First time using soft jaws, just the job to hang onto these parts to finish the bores after welding.

By more luck than judgement there was just enough room to swing them over my saddle.

Last week I poured a base for a new to me 16" x 12" shed ready to start building it this week

Nice looking modifications Hans. The million dollar question is how does it perform?

Stunning work as always

I have a very simular item from Aldi, my dad has one from screwfix all much the same. They are very good for the money, I have used mine to demolish loads of concrete. A mate of mine used it to partially demolish his house. They are heavy, they are loud, they obviously vibrate your body but they do the job for very little money

Jason, that should say he does not work in bananas

Bedec MSP (Multi Surface Paint) is what I used to paint our new hardwood windows around 4 years ago now, still look as good as they day they were painted. Painting external wood is an area of much debate and opinions, like everything elee I suppose. Bedec MSP is waterbased, flexible and breathable, dries very quickly (in comparison to oil based), hardly any odour and requires no primer for wood. They have a selection of colours but I had some mixed by the company themselves in Farrow and Ball colours. Would recommend to anyone with external joinery to paint. It differs from Bedec Barn paint, as mentioned above, in that MSP is for planed timber and Barn paint is for rough sawn, so they say anyway, I have no experience of Barn paint.

Edited By Craig Brown on 18/06/2023 19:05:26

How are you determining that there is wear between the quill and the body? Import drill presses are notorious for a sloppy fit here but on a Fobco the tolerances are normally very good and it would have had to have been quite seriously neglected and or abused to introduce enough wear to make it unserviceable

It was indeed intended to be used as a pipe bender

I have a 4.5" mk2 AUD and I have, as standard, a 7.5" faceplate. I did however recently purchase a 9" faceplate which was maybe standard or an optional extra with the later lathes? (It is painted green and I'm almost certain it's never been used). You can swing it on a 4.5" lathe no problem, as mentioned above the centre height is actually a little more than 4.5". The reason I wanted it was more because of the 8 mounting slots rather than the 6 in the 7.5" version.