Member postings for DiogenesII

It's a bit hard to see, but it almost looks a bit lop-sided as if the body of the tool wasn't truly vertical?

* is it a series of 'V's?

.a closer picture might help..

Edited By DiogenesII on 10/03/2023 19:00:42

Because Sonic still needs to get his lathe set-up and 'tuned-in', I think that tool with it's large radius is unsuitable for 'first cuts' - it will introduce another variable and offer poor general-purpose cutting performance in any case.

Sonic's lathe is bigger than mine, maybe something like SCLCR/L for 'setting up' and general purpose work, cheap to buy and with wide a range of tips universally available, or maybe holders for something like CNMG might offer advantages for a lathe of this size..? ..further comment welcome..

..almost anything with a smaller 'corner' will be easier to 'set-up and get started with' than round tips, and be more suited to general purpose and roughing work in the future.

Thanks for taking the trouble to log the build and take us through the project with you, it's much appreciated; I'm particularly in awe of the purposeful directness and pace with which you got this out of your 'head' and into tangible metal.

Inspiring.

..if the drill has a separate housing for the spring, sometimes you can fit it in a relaxed condition, engage the end and then rotate the housing to wind up the tension before locking it off, sometimes with a set screw, occasionally slots around the periphery that engage with a pin, there are probably other arrangements..

+1.

I wouldn't worry about a drop of oil from the carriage. Running a lathe with gearboxes & powered feeds can often be a 'damp' business, partly because not all lathes are completely oil-tight, also because some operations benefit from lubricant anyway. The tray of my lathe is rarely 'dry'.

That said, the seals behind 'oil-level' windows are a favourite place for leaks to develop. If you wipe the apron down you may be able to see where the oil is coming from.

I think probably most of us have, and don't..

"..I wanted a Digital Emotional Experience, but all I got was i VD.."

..you heard it here first..

I'm back from work.

The 'stand-alone' mill seems to be more often badged as a 'PRAZI' product, and was designated the BF400. It comprised the BFE65 Milling Head and column, mated to the KT160 x 450 Co-ordinate Table.

The cover of my copy is enscribed;

"PRAZI

BF400 - Mill Head

BF500 - Mill Head

KT450 - XY Table

Milling Machine"

It's probably most sensible if I PM you and tell you where I think I got it; the memory is a little treacherous and you'll have to send an enquiry, but at least you now know the name of the document you seek.

This. absolutely.

You could try Lathes.co.uk for a manual, or there used to be a guy on Ebay who had some.

Edited By DiogenesII on 03/03/2023 13:12:43

Normally the body diameter is (nominally) the same as that of the thread, so for 1/4 BSF, making it from 1/4" stock should be fine.

PS - Yes, what Hopper said.

Edited By DiogenesII on 25/02/2023 10:17:37

There was probably a threaded dowel pin (with a parallel shank & a slot to tighten it) fitted in the hole so that the the cover can be pulled to the side by a limited amount and swivelled out of the way, without coming right off the shaft.

Edited By DiogenesII on 25/02/2023 08:09:19

Just interested as to why?

Your description of the taper might suggest MT0 ?

0 Morse Taper

Won't the 'grit-side' reduce anything you put in contact with it into airborne particles.. ?

If it looks dirty. If it looks clear and clean it will be okay.

I knew I'd regret asking - PM sent

Not much to add to excellent tips given above, except to say that of course one hires the gear from Hire Centres and if there is an industrial estate near you, pop in (to a couple if possible) and see what is available - 'new' options & innovations are increasingly available because no-one in trade or industry is being asked to bust their back lifting & dragging stuff around anymore (and rightly so).

Much will depend on the tightness of turns, height of steps, available headroom etc., so that breaking the job down into specific 'tasks' and thinking through how exactly each of these individual manoeuvres will be accomplished is the way to go.

Hence having some idea of the shapes, capacities, abilities & constraints of the equipment that might be available in your arsenal is useful at the outset.

In which part of the kingdom are you, broadly speaking?

Whilst checking everything else, do also check the saddle gibs as Neil L hints. I've seen a similar result from a loose saddle 'walking' down the bed, i.e. because it's being pulled from one edge, alternately sticking and slipping at very regular intervals.

..on closer inspection a redundant comment.. apologies

Edited By DiogenesII on 18/02/2023 19:22:57

Edited By DiogenesII on 18/02/2023 19:25:34

Ah, now you say it, it makes sense - I was just interested because it's rare to see a production part these days where other factors have influenced the design over just plain 'cheapness'..