Member postings for FullaFlava

I had another look at it today, nothing is ever as easy as I hope. The box has sat in the corner for years and I’d forgotten all the wrinkles. I will post pics tomorrow as an explanation but more enginerding is required.

Many thanks for the replies and opinions, much as a press seems a good idea, I don’t see a use for one beyond this job (plus having to put it somewhere) and I thought the lathe might be a work around.

A buddy 35 miles away has a 10 tonne hydraulic press, if I get all the shizzle required together, I’ll go and borrow the use of it.

From what I understand, I’ll need the broach, the gear, a full length 70mm steel bushing with a slot, shims which I suppose will also need to be full length and lube.

I’ll also look at the shorter bush as mentioned by Howard T, but I’m not sure there’s enough meat on the diameter to have an insert and be strong enough.

Thanks for that, I have planed keyways as David described before but was hoping a broach might be easier, which it likely is with the proper tools.

Im not sure I have enough headroom in the throat of my mill to use the quill, perhaps I could get over the edge of the table provided I can hold the job properly.

To fit a power feed I’ve had for ages to my mill, I have a need to increase the diameter of the bore of the drive gear and then make a 5mm keyway. The keyway will need to have a length of approx 70mm and the material is brass.

I’ve never used a keyway broach before and am unsure how much force is required. Do you think ill be able to push one through with the tail stock on my HLV clone?

I bought one about 10 days ago and it took a week to arrive, I unboxed it today:

Inside the cardboard is the stand and a blow moulded case for the saw, which is nicely screwed together with plastic and metal castings and not flimsy.

The flex is about 2M/6 ft long, the blade is stored in the lid with the instructions, which were only in English. The blade is marked thus -

There is a brush to remove filings from the teeth of the blade

Fitting the blade was easy, as was fitting the saw to the stand with 3 Allen bolts.

The vice and the angle adjust (0 x 45 degrees) are secured with a lever lock, the vice onto the knurled bar. The speed control is step less in 6 stages from 0.7- 2.4 metres/ sec

i cut a piece of 30mm mild steel to test it with no other setting up initially at the slowest setting raising it to number 2 as it started to cut properly.

It cut through in a minute and a half, you have to keep the trigger held, there is a led light to help illuminate the cut., the cut vertically is a little off but no worse than hand cutting, the front to back is acceptable as it is adjustable by tweaking the angle

First impression is of good value and likely very useful especially when I get to making a vertical table fixture.

Al

I have an older version Warco VMC, with a self fitted DRO but no power feeds an doing some milling recently really flared up an elbow injury, as well as the embuggerance of changing belts between wiggling and drilling.

Fitting a power feed to mine is a non starter as I know the align unit doesn’t fit. I know I ‘could’ make one but that takes the time and opportunity for making other things. I obviously could also self fit a 3 phase motor and VFD.

Looking at the Warco site they have a VMC, VFD installed unit including DRO and power feeds for circa £3800.

The Super Major Vario similarly optioned in around the same price, give or take.

The major has a bigger capacity size wise, despite being the same size motor.

If I was to change do you think the major would prove the better machine, am I missing something?

Thanks to everyone that commented particularly by PM.

If only I’d known it was so ‘easy’!

I’d bought a 16x2mm spiral tap which recently arrived.

I wanted 40 teeth which gave me a .0787” x 40 = 3.148 circumference equating to 1.002” diameter.

I tried a couple of bits of scrap first to get the technique, I got the in feed wrong and double cut, if I’d continued to in feed it might have sorted itself out. The larger diameter gave me 47 teeth

Once I was confident I tried for real, then cut a 1/2 “ x 2mm pitch worm to see how it looked.

Edited By FullaFlava on 31/08/2019 16:59:54

I was making some small parts that when reversed in the 5C collet to work on the backside weren’t sitting correctly.

you can buy ready made versions from Arc et al for approx £10 but I thought I would gave a go at making one.

The thread is 1.05”x 24 tpi, I cut it to the same depth as 3/8 UNF and it fits nicely.

the rod is 2BA which was the only all-thread I had lying about, I may change to a beefier size in due course.

Nearly finished a globe valve, still need to profile the tee piece, gland follower and make a handwheel.

Edited By FullaFlava on 23/08/2019 19:41:42

So now I am at home, I can properly get my head round making a worm and wheel.

The drawing is here, I believe it’s a 40:1 ratio and shown diagrammatically as an acme thread. In reality I guess it won’t matter as long it it looks about right, but I’m a bit disappointed the pitch isn’t specified as I believe I need that to calculate the wheel diameter.

If anybody can help me decipher this, so I can get on, I would appreciate it.

Drill boxes where the small drill bits fall out and jam the lid so it won’t open or require removing most of the other bits to retrieve the dislodged ones.

Blow moulded tool boxes for corded tools which require the cable to be just so before you can close the lid.

Grease guns. Never met one I liked.

Sounds as though I will have a financial juggling act of finding a metal blade for the wood saw I have and a solution of slowing it down to be usable for less than the cost of the ready made options already presented on the thread.

I have recently inherited (along with the rest of the woodworking workshop) a 2 roller wood bandsaw ( I cant confirm the make or size as I’m not currently at home).

Does any body know if metalworking blades come in the correct size for the usual suspect bandsaw manufacturers of this type? I will update the question with specific make and size in due course, unless in the meantime it becomes apparent that this is not a viable alternative.

Al

The micrometer is a 1.2” capacity and I’ve had it at least 11 years; the battery is yet to die. I like it a lot.

I use it to set the DRO when I first turn it on or setting a new tool.

The calliper is Mitutoyo also, sometimes I don’t need the hassle of turning on (finding a flat battery) setting zero before measuring a piece of bar stock to see if it’s 1” or 25mm nominal to know which collet I need.

Dunno if I’ve seen this before, so maybe not original but I wanted a narrower groove than my parting tool and I wasn’t in the mood to grind.

I put my slit saw (already on arbor) into a tool holder and set up with one of the teeth on centre height on the back side of the job with the lathe in reverse. I set up on the backside so as to not flip the saw direction.

Thanks to those who helped!

I made a new distance piece and also managed to screw the end which holds the ball back on to the arm by putting axial pressure on it as I screwed. It seems there is a loose nut in the assembly which rotates otherwise.

this brought the inner rod to the correct length and with the distance piece it now works.

Thanks to all that replied!

As the lathe is a Hardinge clone, I guess it was supposed to be included.

It is surplus to my requirements though as the machine came fitted with a multi fix post.

Al

I have found all the usual ME internet suppliers (Arc, RDG, Chronos, Rotagrip) to be very good.

I also ordered from Arc on Sunday and the parcel arrived Tuesday, unfortunately one item was the wrong size (their mistake) but I returned it via Royal Mail and a the correct item is being resent, with my postage being refunded.

This came with the accessories with the lathe, I don’t think it belongs per se.

it looks like a small adjustable toolpost. The wedge winds along to adjust the height, and it locks with the small clamp bolt.

I’ve never seen similar before. Anybody?