Member postings for old mart

Funny you should mention 1" x 5 ACME, I have just made a tool to hold the er22 5tpi Acme lay down insert. The tool will pass into the 0.800" start bore for that size. You will never be able to buy one as tooling for that size would need a start hole more than 1 1/4 " diameter. The tool is right hand and will be used away from the chuck for a LH thread. I will have to measure the working length, maybe 2 1/2". The knee of the Tom Senior could do with a new nut.

I would be willing to lend you the tool, if your lathe can manage it.

Edited By old mart on 10/06/2021 17:38:12

Edited By old mart on 10/06/2021 17:39:31

Not quite the same, but the flourescent tubes in the kitchen used to dimmly glow when switched off and I found that the light switch was on the neutral side instead of the live.

I finished grinding the inside jaws of the 160mm chuck, both the inside and the 2 outside steps and stripped and cleaned the chuck. The outside jaws will have to wait, I haven't checked their running yet, and Mike needed the lathe, anyway.

What spec bronze are you using for the nuts? I have made them from leaded gunmetal SAE660.

I thought I had replied to this yesterday, but must have forgotted the "add posting" button. A modern motor in star will be 415V, but when reconnected in delta will run on 230V three phase. See John Fletcher's post. My link also shows the motor connections. Robert Atkinson also recommends the same company.

When I did up the spare bedroom above the extension about 12 years ago, I fitted two lamp fittings each with 3 GU10 230v 50W halogens, controlled by a 40-400W rotary on/off tungsten dimmer. In the last few years, dimmable 230V GU10 LED bulbs became available and I just changed the lot. They work like the old ones, but use much less electricity. The LED bulbs are LAP brand dimmable 5W warm white, 346 lumen.

I had not noticed the double taper until you mentioned it, the steep angle is also obvious on the head of the bush.

It sounds like the front bearing could be gently tapped out with a soft drift. Then the bearing and headstock bore could be degreased. I would then refit the bearing halfway with the hole lined up and put a couple of drops of loctite on the part of the bush which is still exposed. Loctite 290 is a wicking threadlocker which would hold the bush well, or you could use any thread/retaining compound you have, as long as you could be sure of pushing the bush home in a few seconds.

How is the pulley fixed to the spindle? Is there a keyway and or grubscrews?

If you fit the spindle in place without the pulley, what would any thrust washer bear against? With the pulley fitted, is the belt alignment going to be a problem? Also with the pulley lined up to suit the belt alignment, is there room for a thrust washer?

Edited By old mart on 08/06/2021 20:50:22

Edited By old mart on 08/06/2021 20:53:08

Edited By old mart on 08/06/2021 20:57:40

With all the electric cars being charged up, we will be wanting half a dozen Hinkley power stations very soon, roll on fusion.

Have a look at this, the price will be ex vat and postage. They have a quick start guide which can be printed out and it is even understandable for a dummy like me to follow and have a decent set of remote controls and easy programming. The vfd should be in a well ventillated area away from dust and swarf contamination.

**LINK**

As Noel says, a metal stockholder would be the best place, that 2.5 metres would fit in a Corsa size car easily, but you should take something to wrap it up in with you.

When I was looking for changewheels for the Smart & Brown model A lathe, I bought a single Myford one to see if they were similar, as they are relatively easy to get hold of. Unfortunately, a 127 tooth Myford gear would have been much too large in diameter to fit. The S&B gears are very fine pitch, visually similar compared to a Myford gear as the Myford compares to the Drummond. I have replaced all of the S&B change wheels with MOD1 metric pitch wheels as they are easy to get hold of, and also because I got hold of a 125-127 MOD1 gear cheaply which was for some Chinese lathe.

Changewheels do not have much power going through them, so there is no need for them to be huge.

I have just bought several items from Just Metal (ukfab12 on ebay), they were good prices and very quick delivery.

Yes, don't chew it.

It looks like the main bearings are both tapered, so there should be some way of altering the spacing of the bushes in the headstock, as well as some type of adjustable thrust bearing at the left hand end. The thrust bearing would be vital to keep the spindle adjusted fir minimum play, but free running and also to prevent an accident as you have just experianced. The bearing that has moved would likely need to be removed adr replaced using suitably turned tubes, washers, nuts and studding.

There is a WJ listing in Lathes UK which might have pictures of yours, and hopefully show whether yours has any parts missing.

**LINK**

Did it have a beval gear, or a worm drive?

Toolstation have a Draper air die grinder with 1/8 and 1/4 inch collets which is supposed to use 4 cubic feet per minute at 90 psi. Whatever you can find, make sure it has a rubber sleeve on the outside, not bare metal, they get very cold, hand held. I have my doubts whether an air tool would use less than 4 cuft/min.

If you had an adjustable valve between the compressor and the tool to run it at a lower speed, there might be a setting that was usable for you.

Edited By old mart on 07/06/2021 22:57:59

I have seen some ruby tipped indicator probe ends on ebay, made in China, similar to the one in Luker's photo. I cannot say how accurately spherical the rubies are. The ruby tipped type for CNN machines also come up for sale regularly, I don't know how expensive they are.

I cannot comment on the liquid PTFE,but the Loctite is very good, I wish I had used it on the 3/4 and 1/2 steel pipework in the museum's restoration area. I used PTFE tape for all the joints and there are many leaks. Hiring a commercial quality pipe threader would have helped, but at the speed we work it would have been far too expensive, we bought a Draper set and the thread quality is not great.

Three posts in a row reflecting exactly what I was thinking.