Member postings for old mart

I f you have any choice of sata connections on the motherboard, you should try another and make a note of the suspect one. It also helps to be able to try different sata cables.

If you did buy a milling machine with a vertical head like a drill press, there are a lot of ways to do it. The vises with tilt have already been mentioned, and I suggeat that you go to the ebay start page and put this in the search box: "45 degree milling cutters".

I don't understand the op's second paragraph in the original posting.

I have had no trouble logging in using either Firefox or edge.

I set at 0 degrees normally as it is easier to manage the thread depth using the tables. The only time I moved the top slide was when matching the wear of a long leadscrew so that antibacklash nuts did not become locked up at the extremes of the travel. In that case, the wear in the centre was not too bad, and the thread was a large ACME which was very easy to pick up when working on only 25% of the length at one time.

Thanks, Howard, I have bookmarked the site.

I would go for en19T or en24T both are chrome moly and are much stronger than mild steel without any further heat treating.

Unless you intend to keep the machine outside, I don't think there will be much difference between the two approaches.

The original reason for the copper was that the nickel would not adhere well to steel directly, it was the thick layer of dull nickel that was mechanically polished prior to chrome plating.

I have seen adaptors which bolt down to the RT and have the Myford thread on them, three bolt and four bolt on ebay. Climb milling with small cuts is not likely to unscrew the chuck.

Edited By old mart on 29/08/2021 18:20:11

It always used to be the case, but you may not need it with a modern nickel solution. There should be recomendations included with the nickel bath specification.

Its a shame about the broken tee slots, I wonder if there is any way of turning the table round?

There is a bigger one at the Underfall Yard at Bristol.

Edited By old mart on 29/08/2021 16:14:29

When the apron was being refurbished on the Smart & Brown model A, a new leadscrew nut was made. I decided to fit the telescopic springs either side of the saddle and they keep the leadscrew pristine. I use oil to compliment the automatic oiling system by just pulling back the springs and squirting some extra oil on the leadscrew. Myfords, such as the one illustrated in this thread would work very well with springs added as their presence would not restrict the travel of the saddle.

Building a pallet beehive is very hopeful, I would think the odds against a swarm of bees finding it are about a million to one.

When the garage roof where I used to live became impossible to seal due to a very shallow pitch and two joints in the corrigated asbestos, I looked into various ways of replacing it. It was about 18 x 25 feet. The cheapest was the industrial sheeting which buildings are commonly made of today. I had condensation problems and lined the sections with sheets of expanded polystyrene, but had to leave the two strips of fibreglass single thickness to let the light through. The modern take on this building sheeting has solved the condensation problem and thermal insulation by using two sheets of the steel with a thick layer of polyurethane foam between them. The stuff is so common nowdays that getting some should be easy wherever you live.

I would not think that monel rivets would be used in conjunction with aluminium in a Harrier airframe. The monel is rather hard compared to aluminium and there are dangers of corrosion. There are riveted steel parts in the hot areas which would be more suitable applications. Try beating one of the monel rivets on a smooth steel plate, or squeeze it if you have a powerful enough press and see how ductile it is.

WOW! what a fantastic sale. I had a look at everything, and noticed the large number of models made by the late Duncan Laidlaw. Also for sale were the lathe and mill they were made on. It is proof that you do not need hugely expensive equipment to make wonderful things, just skill.

The Helicopter Museum is at Weston-Super-Mare, in the UK. I got bored and just ordered a metre of the 22mm EN1A from the cheapest ebay seller today, just over £24 post paid.

The threading will have to be done before the tapering, there will be no parallel surface to hold onto after the taper is produced. The easy way for me will be to turn a couple of inches of 1" bar true and put a 1/2 UNF female thread in it. Then each blank with the threads either end and one centre for tailstock support can be screwed into the chucked up holder for taper turning. The Smart & Brown model A has the taper turning attachment, which makes it easy, as the length of taper required is twice the compounds movement.

http://www.helicoptermuseum.co.uk/

Edited By old mart on 27/08/2021 16:41:47

The blade bolts are for a Piasecki H21 flying banana twin rotor with six blades. We only have about 3 blade remnants, so 6 bolts will be plenty. The bolts are slightly larger than a Wessex bolt and from the limited pictures are similar desigh with a thread either end. On the Wessex the tapered bolts are pulled tight by a nut with a large flange, which also fits the other end. When removing or loosening a bolt, the nut is fitted to the large end to break the taper. We don't have any Piasecki nuts, but Wessex ones are the right size and have 1/2" UNF threads and most importantly readily available which will save me making them from 38mm bar.

Original bolts would have been made from heat treated chrome moly, but mild steel is plenty for a museum exhibit.

Edited By old mart on 27/08/2021 13:08:05

The 22mm diameter is perfect as the largest diameter will be in the region of 20, and also because the spindle bore of the Smart & Brown model A is 63/64", about 25mm.

I was thinking that the black might be EN3, and that would make the saving in price not worth while.

**LINK**