Member postings for old mart

Gold is one of the most ductile and malleable metals, I don't think it requires annealing.

Using the bike lift that I bought was made easier when I realised that the detachable ramp could be shimmed under the end to lift it up about 1 1/2" and a 3/4" sheet placed in front. That made the slope easier up to the 7" lowered height. It makes pushing the bike on easier. I will be cutting off one corner of the stand just outboard of the reinforcing bar as it is just at ankle height in the close confines of the garage, and a soft rubber pad will be fitted there. See posts on 22/7/2022. The bike won't be run till about May, I feel thecold too much at my age.

I won't be riding the bike up onto the lift, Clive Foster was perfectly right about it being a dodgy thing to do.

Edited By old mart on 10/01/2023 19:34:55

If you want the bores of thin shim stock burr free, it helps to sandwich the shim between two thicker plates, aluminium or hardboard, possibly and then when the hole is made it should be perfect.

Posted by Ian P on 09/01/2023 22:03:26:

Hopper, how can a grubscrew bearing on the bottom of a keyway recess damage the shaft?

Ian P

This is my solution to grubscrews and keyways. The key was milled down to me just below the shaft OD and the grubscrews were screwed in tight when the pulley was aligned. Then the key was removed, using thesmall threaded hole to jack it out of the keyway and holes made for the tips of the grubscrewsin line with the witness marks. No damage to the shaft and plenty of security.

You are right, it oozes quality. Price is up to £157 as of 19.30 Sunday 8th.

Height errors get bigger as the diameter of the work, and the length are reduced. An error of 0.001" at 1" diameter in a 10" length would be tiny, but the same error with a 1/10" diameter and 1/2" long would be relatively much greater. Same with taper turning, try turning the end of a 1" bar at 45 degrees, to a point, if the tool is not on centre.

You are not far from Warco, they are about 12 miles south of Guildford, and 3 miles east of Haslemere.

Edited By old mart on 04/01/2023 20:54:42

My Suzuki Burgman 400 has 34 hp driving a variator with a 25mm wide belt at up to 7000rpm. The pulleys are aluminium, and the belts should last 14500 miles.

Be careful with 3000 rpm with a lathe that size, chucks over 6" might be unsafe.

The spindle bearings are both taper roller, so sealing is not likely in the inch size needed. I had trouble with overheating which had me running around in circles when preloading the new bearings. It turned out to be bottom seal to blame, even though it was the exact size for the spindle nose. It was a double lipped seal with a garter spring, and it took 2 stages to solve the overheating. The garter spring was first removed with margial success, then I completely removed the main seal leaving only the front lip. That did the trick, after all the seal was only there to prevent contamination getting into the bearings, the grease was not about to pour out like oil would.

There are several sources of ACME leadscrew material in the USA, but getting it sent to the UK might be difficult. If you can get some, get nuts at the same time. Kingston Engineering in the UK have that type of threading, try googling for them. If you had to get more than you wanted, there are several Tom Senior people on this forum who would be interested. Unfortunately although the X and Y axis leadscrews are both the same size, they are left and right handed.

For now, the heavy grease will definitely help with that backlash, I would try car brake grease.

Edited By old mart on 03/01/2023 16:30:57

Exactly, SOD, most of us are not producing NASA or aerospace parts, so top quality in everything is not essential. some people are struggling to keep a chuck going despite knowing that even a cheap new one would probably be a better bet, even top quality wears out eventually. I would like a new chuck, but not for £500.

Edited By old mart on 01/01/2023 18:36:19

I cannot comment on the strength of brass bolts, but I was impressed with woodscrews when I modified some for a particular job, much stronger than expected, close to mild steel.

 The spec for bolts is for the finished bolts, so the materials may differ from make to make slightly.

Edited By old mart on 01/01/2023 16:21:04

I think this was the place I bought the chuck from:

**LINK**

I have just found the drawing which was kindly sent to me via another forum. The details, as I recall, were to make a replica shaft, and the dimensions, particular the diameter should be compared carefully with your shaft. A new female part could be made with a longer length of spline, assuming it would not then restrict the 2 1/2" quill movement.

The female part would be hardest to make, unfortunately, I was going to make a splined shaft, but ended up using the original top attached to the R8 bottom. I will find the drawing and show it to you, maybe somebody on the forum might be able to cut the splines for you.

I had no problems getting hold of M10 x 1 bolts and a tap when we remade the X axis stops on the drill mill. 1mm pitch was chosen because the mill is metric and it would be easy to make engraved dials for fine adjustment.

It is a slightly chancy buisiness, but the investment was low and if a set of hard outside jaws had turned up to fit the other chuck, they would have been about £25, so the risk was worth it. The smaller versions are even cheaper, so anybody with a worn out chuck could get a bargain.

I have just bought a 160mm three jaw scroll chuck on ebay for £54.35 including postage. It was a gamble, but it paid off, fortunately. I mounted it on the Atlas with a tight register on the backplate, and checked the runout. The three scroll pinions gave 0.002", 0.003" and 0.005" with 1" and 2" diameter ground stock at the jaws and about 0.001" more at 3" out with the internal jaws. I was pleased to find that the preferred pinion was the one that is in line with the oiler on the front of the body. The fits are very good for a bargain chuck. I have been looking for a set of external hard jaws for the 160mm chuck that I fitted to it for some time without success. I haven't tried the external jaws for runout, so far.

Peak 4 has the answer, that adaptor is for the Panasonic F10. The exact part number for the C mount lens adaptor is in the F10 manual. That camcorder was a semi professional VHS with a bayonette lens mount, I don't know if any other of their cameras used the same mount.

As already mentioned, it looks like a slip cage, they had them in our inspection, not thought of highly by the inspectors as I recall.