Member postings for old mart

I went shopping in Lidl today, and bought one of the mains powered 20 watt LED spotlights for £14.99. You have to connect your own cable, three core, and I had a spare computer power lead. The light is designed to work outside, so it is waterproof. There is a remote control which fortunately has a continuous light mode as I fancied using it on the Tom Senior mill. Having one as a machine light gives 1500 lumens, which dazzled me while I was trying to make sense of the remote without having read the instructions first. Two of these on a mill would be great and not break the bank. The size is 7" by 5" by 1 1/2" deep. Check it out on the Lidl website.

I bought ER25 and the first cheap Chinese one had a 0.002" tir runout, the second is less than 0.0004" tir. The collets were a lottery too, so I have collets in 6,8,10,12 and 16mm from Cutwell and Vertex, which are very good.

Welcome Paul, the forum is doing well with new members this week, I count 7 on this page today.

I seem to remember a polish for brass which claimed to extend the life between polishing.

Solid carbide would be the answer if you could use a drill press, but with a hand held drill you would just break the bit. However, there are Bosch Multiconstruction drills in sets which have carbide tips and steel shanks like masonry drills. It is certainly possible to sharpen the tip of a regular masonry drill, hard going with a standard grinding wheel, but easy with a green wheel, or diamond wheel.

Some sort of drill bush to keep the drill on line would help if it is possible, and maybe using a Dremel to create a start point for the drilling especially if the fractured end is not flat.

Before fitting the new glass, you could put a little groove up to the oil hole so it will drain properly. It sounds like the whole lot needs a wash out anyway.

Now the glass is out, have you found out why the oil was showing?

I use AC90, but WD40 and paraffin are effective in stopping the build up. Little and often is the best way.

They are not bad for the price, I have had better luck with the Lidl Parkside products than the Aldi equivalents.

If I had one, the grinding wheel would be replaced by a left hand taper to run polishing mops on to.

No, but I haven't the foggiest idea how they are removed. If it is in a stepped hole, the only way of removing it would be to press from the other side, on the glass, if that is even possible.

I have pretty well finished the electrics, except for making a bracket for the second emergency stop button. When I checked the wiring continuity with a meter, there was an inconsistency in the contact resistance in the regular stop button and one of the emergency stop buttons. They are in series, all the inverter controls are remote. The switches are Chinese and there is nothing obviously wrong with their functioning. Not having any Servisol switch lubricant, I gave each switch a good dowsing in AC90 which is similar to WD40. Now they work as they should, and I did the same to the start switch, just in case.

The inverter is a Schneider ATV12 0.75 Kw and the motor is a TEC three phase 0.75 KW six pole. I bought them from The Inverter Drive Supermarket and chose one of the inverters that benefited from their quick start guides pdf which Rod printed out. It took me about an hour to get the programming to my satisfaction, it would taken a year without the QSG. I have the frequencies running from 25 to 75 Hz.

The link belt turned out to be two links too long and it rubbed the housing in top speed pulley configuration, and the spindle is overheating. It still ran hot after slight slackening, and if one more adjustment does not do the trick without over slackening the bearings, I will have to assume that I have overpacked with the grease, and will have to remove the spindle from the quill to remove some. I fitted a double lip oil seal with the same id as the spindle nose diameter without the garter spring, and bored the bearing housing where the seal sits a couple of thou oversize, so it will not be too hard to push out when or if the spindle is removed.

I will post some more pics next week.

I would look on ebay to see what sizes are available before attempting to remove yours, just in case it ends in tears.

I get around 8Mbits at present with SKY which is less than what I got 5 years ago, (14Mbits). The Virgin fibre is advertised at over 100Mbits at present, which is more than I could even imagine. The 1Gps is the sort of speed that an office block would need.

The shank of an R8 toolholder is 15/16", (23.8mm) and the length of the tapered end is 1", if you use a standard collet for a 20mm cutter, the depth is limited, a 3/4" size is the biggest that gives a decent choice of fitted depth.

I use up to 80mm shell mills regularly with R8, but don't bother with any solid cutters above 20mm, and 16mm with ER25 collets. The threaded shank cutters used in the small series Clarkson, Osborn and Acramill go up to 16mm shank with cutting diameters up to 20mm. The larger threaded shank holders in R8 go up to about 32mm.

ER collets in 32 and 40 sizes are ok except, the limitations of the R8 only allow a relatively short amount of shank just the depth of the collet length.

You may be able to get answers on the Denford forum. Denford own the copyright on all the Tom Senior archives.

I have had a Sky account for over fifteen years, which includes tv, phone and internet. I seem to pay well over the odds and the internet speed is slow considering that I live in the second biggest town in Somerset.

Things are changing, as today, Virgin have just finished laying fibre optic cable in our street. It will be ready to go in the next few weeks and I will be changing to Virgin for tv, phone and internet, which may well be up to 6 times as fast as my present speed for less than half the outlay for the first year and then 3/4 what I am paying now.

I have lots of internet accounts including this forum, and would like to know the best way of changing over. I thought of changing the accounts to a Gmail address from the SKY one before getting the new Virgin address to make sure things don't go horribly wrong at the last minute. What do you think I should do?

It is a very good price, but not of use to me as the S & B model A uses smaller collets than the 1024. Anyone just needing the arbor would do well to buy it and then sell the chuck for over half the initial outlay.

I have a set of the cheap ones and three old Moore & Wright ones. The M & W get used if they cover the size, and 0.001" is easy to get and repeat. The cheap ones are rough feeling, I should take them apart and smooth them and add a little oil, that might improve their feel.

Anyone who has just bought their first set should practice with some decent holes in materials, to get the feel and repeatability which is possible.

Edited By old mart on 10/10/2019 22:27:20

These pictures and links will be very useful when we get to designing guards, we can't afford to buy them, and will have to utilise the materials to hand, thanks, guys.

I noticed this collet mounted chuck on ebay and wondered if the mount is 5C. The chuck is Chinese, obviously, and I recognised the make. It is made by Huhhot Machine Tool, the same make as one of the chucks which we have at the museum. Our one is a 125mm, and the quality is well above the average Chinese one.

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